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DDickey · 07-07-2017, 10:18 AM

As noted in an earlier post, I ran the main hot water line up and over, through the skins, down to the fixtures and then looped back to the water heater so that I could create a gravity hot water circulation loop. If it works I'll have instant hot water everywhere. The difficult part was bringing the line down street-side because I had to do it in a very tight space between two windows. This area also has skin, window trim and F channel that needs to be attached, so I've had to be very careful not to drill a hole in the hot water line. Sho 'nuff, I drilled a hole straight through it. Argggggggggh!!!!!! After much cussing and two beers I decided to quit for the night and try to fix it in the morning. I wasn't sure I'd be able to do it, but after tearing things apart I was able to get to the line and repair it. I hate having a connection between the skins, but I did run a spare line in case this one ever gives out. I won't be able to get to it once the cabinets are in. The first pic is the location of the hole, the second pic is the hole, and the third pic is everything put back together.

DDickey · 07-13-2017, 07:48 AM

I bought some inexpensive 5MM material ($12/sheet) to make patterns from. I'm using the original partitions to start, fitting them as best as they can, applying tape and cardboard to gaps, then using that template to cut the patterns. The patterns aren't perfect, but pretty darn close, and I'm able to see where improvements can be made to make the next cut better. The actual wall partitions should come out almost perfect.

jjmtb · 07-13-2017, 02:22 PM

When we fit bulkheads in airplanes it basically the same process. We take the fuzzy part of a Velcro strip and bond it all along the bulkhead edge. That closes out any gaps cleanly and keeps from scratching or rubbing on the outside wall.

DDickey · 07-14-2017, 05:56 AM

What kind of planes do you build?

islandtrader · 07-14-2017, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDickey

so I've had to be very careful not to drill a hole in the hot water line. Sho 'nuff, I drilled a hole straight through it. Argggggggggh!!!!!! After much cussing and two beers I decided to quit for the night and try to fix it in the morning.

It seems to me you have had this problem before

drilling holes into things that leak water...

DDickey · 07-14-2017, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by islandtrader

It seems to me you have had this problem before

drilling holes into things that leak water...

I can't even begin to tell you how frustrating it is to know that the pipe is there, think to yourself, 'now be careful, go slow, not too deep', then to drill right through it. Arrrrrrrrrrrrgh!

jjmtb · 07-14-2017, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDickey

What kind of planes do you build?

Gulfstreams. The G450/550/650

DDickey · 07-15-2017, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjmtb

Gulfstreams. The G450/550/650

I suppose some of the construction techniques will help you build out your Airstream

DDickey · 07-27-2017, 05:57 PM

I've been working on the curbside cabinet, which is pretty complex because it holds all of the electronics, the fridge, the heater, the batteries, the pantry, and even some clothes somewhere. It's 105 in Texas, and working in Lucy is like working in an oven. The recess is for the TV

islandtrader · 07-28-2017, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDickey

It's 105 in Texas, and working in Lucy is like working in an oven.

I feel your pain...here in SW FLA the heat index has been over 110 for the last month. So yesterday I pulled the plug and the better half and I hit the road for the next 2 months. Maybe next year we will do the same thing, but pulling our Aluminum can...haha

DDickey · 08-15-2017, 01:20 PM

The curbside cabinet has been a lot of work because there's a lot going on there. The heater and the batteries are in the lower section of the front compartment, and both require isolated compartments because of hydrogen fumes from the batteries. Above these two is the refrigerator, which also needs to be in its own isolated compartment. Above the refrigerator is the pantry, and to the right of that is the broom closet. Next is the water heater and the electrical nerve center of the trailer (pictured). Finally, to the right of that is the clothes closet. Woven throughout all of this is high voltage wiring, low voltage wiring, hot and cold water lines, black and gray tank vents, gas lines, electrical controls, batteries, converters, monitors, appliances and the TV. I thought this cabinet would take two weeks to build, but it's going to end up being more like two months. My goal is to get the power center wired up by the weekend because then I'll be able to work in air conditioning. I've got the cabinet totally built, but it's pulled out right now so that I can paint it. When it's time, I'll reinstall the cabinet and put the final coat of paint on in-place.

DDickey · 08-21-2017, 06:27 PM

When you're doing a Full Monty there are several milestones: 1.) Lifting the shell off 2.) Getting the bottom done 3.) Rebuilding the windows (way more work than you'd ever think) 4.) Putting the shell back on 5.) Re-skinning the interior and I'm on milestone 5 - powering her up, and it feels really good. I've got Lucy wired and powered up, and it feels like the old gal has come alive. She's got 110v power, lighting, and best of all, the AC works so I can continue in blissful comfort.

In my build, the way I've designed her, the street side cabinet has been complex to build. I'm close to the point of installing it, but our interior design calls for paint, and I hate to paint. Paint is all about prep, and there's nothing that bores me more than prepping for paint. That being said, I built the cabinet, removed it for paint, brushed the primer and then brushed the first coat (I'm using oil based paint). Brush marks. I sanded it and rolled the second coat. Roll marks. I sanded it, bought different rollers and rolled the second coat. Still has stipple marks. I sanded it and sprayed the third coat. It looks better, but I want a smooth, high gloss finish. I'm going to hit the third coat with 220 sandpaper, install the cabinet and spray it again inside the trailer. If it's not smooth and glossy I'm going to call a painter and have a professional do the final coat.

tabney0315 · 08-21-2017, 08:20 PM

Looks great. I'm at about to get to past step four. Just need to finish up wiring.

Where did you get those toggle switch panels? That is exactly what I've been looking for.

islandtrader · 08-22-2017, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDickey

I'm going to hit the third coat with 220 sandpaper, install the cabinet and spray it again inside the trailer. If it's not smooth and glossy I'm going to call a painter and have a professional do the final coat.

Have you tried this product...it works great. They also have a companion product for latex base paints.

https://www.flood.com/products/paint...paint-additive

rugjenkins · 08-22-2017, 09:07 AM

The box stores sell the pentrol (oil) or flotrol (latex) additives.

DDickey · 08-22-2017, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tabney0315

Looks great. I'm at about to get to past step four. Just need to finish up wiring.

Where did you get those toggle switch panels? That is exactly what I've been looking for.

You can get them from a lot of places, but I got mine here:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/toggle-switch-panels

DDickey · 08-22-2017, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by islandtrader

Have you tried this product...it works great. They also have a companion product for latex base paints.

https://www.flood.com/products/paint...paint-additive

I've used Pentrol for latex, I didn't know they had it for oil. I sprayed the cabinet last night and realized 1/2 way through that my gun was spattering, I either need to rebuild the gun or buy a new one

Anyway, I went ahead and finished spraying so I'd have a uniform coat to sand down today. I'm going to give it another shot before I give up

DDickey · 08-22-2017, 06:43 PM

I bought a HVLP sprayer at Home Depot today and I'm 99% sure I'm going to get the finish I want. I just got done spraying and here's what I've learned:

1. I can't paint with brushes
2. Worn out paint sprayers suck
3. I still hate to prep
4. I like HVLP paint sprayers way better than conventional
a. Easier to use
b. Great spray control
c. Easier to clean

I'm using oil, so I won't really know until tomorrow if I've gotten the finish I want, but even after the spray it looks great, so I'm very hopeful

tabney0315 · 08-24-2017, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDickey

You can get them from a lot of places, but I got mine here:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/toggle-switch-panels

Thanks a lot! I've had a hard time finding one that's reasonable priced and just like this. Thanks!!

DDickey · 08-25-2017, 07:23 AM

I wanted an exterior shower for Lucy so I bought this beautiful, very expensive stainless steel transom shower and installed it. Problem is, it didn't occur to me that transom showers don't have to be waterproof, and this one's not. When it rains, it leaks. A lot, dammit. I've searched around and I can't find an aluminum or stainless steel shower box, and I'm not going to put a gray plastic one in. ***sigh***