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06-01-2017, 02:47 PM
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#141
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Copper vs PEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Masondood
Looks really good DD, think the pex will work well for you, I'm old school too and would lean towards copper but think that pex has proven itself as a good material for water supply lines, especially at the pressures used here. Copper can have it's own issues too as I'm sure you know.
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I was a plumber in the 80's when polybutylene water pipe was the rage, and that didn't turn out so well. We used to re-pipe entire apartment complexes that had failed polybutylene systems (usually the fittings), so I've always been leery of plastic.
That being said, I started thinking about how these things sorta dance down the road with all that twisting and flexing, and I got nervous about copper. I researched PEX and it appears that my fears are unfounded, so I took the plunge. I like how easy it is to work with.
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06-01-2017, 05:36 PM
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#142
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3 Rivet Member
2016 30' International
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 166
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I remember hiring plumbing contractors to remove all the pipe in apt and office buildings but it was the thin walled copper that was the culprit!
__________________
Michael and Leah
2016 International Serenity 30'- "Suburban Cliche"
2017 F350 Lariat
Poodle and two cats!
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06-02-2017, 07:12 AM
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#143
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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It's always something
isn't it?
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06-06-2017, 07:09 PM
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#144
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Tank Vent Mistake
So it occurred to me today that I've made a mistake: I've tied the gray tanks and the black tank's vent together under the floor (first pic taken awhile back). If I leave it like it is, black and gray will be able to mix when the tanks are full, which isn't good at all. Can't leave it. I'm going to have to cut a piece of my beautifully installed subfloor out and re-plumb the tank vents dangit. This will be the second time I've reworked the vents because I drilled a hole in one of the them when I installed the subfloor. Third time is a charm I guess, but I'm just glad that I caught it before I installed the flooring.
The second and third pics are the interior. Interior skins are 100%; shaving the Olympics 98%; window trim 95%; potable water system 75%; bathroom framing 98%; electrical system wiring check 95%.
Next up: 1. Fix the vents, 2. Shave the remaining Olympics, 3. Install the floor, 4. Have the shower pan fabricated and install it, 5. On to cabinets and appliances
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06-08-2017, 12:08 PM
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#145
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3 Rivet Member
Plattsmouth
, Nebraska
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 115
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When installing your interior panels how are you preventing scratches or do you not worry about it? Do you plan on surfacing the sheets after they are all up if so how?
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06-08-2017, 01:29 PM
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#146
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Protecting the panels
I worried about scratching the panels a lot. My main defense was to add the plastic film option for $1/ft when I ordered the 2024. I scratched the film terribly while installing the panels, but the film did its job and I have almost no scratched panels. The few scratches I have will buff out, and if they don't they'll be beauty marks
I'm going to leave the panels bare, and I understand the trade-offs. I talked it over with my wife and she says it'll be like wearing high-heels - aesthetics over comfort
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06-10-2017, 06:48 AM
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#147
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Straightening the Tank Vents Out
That wasn't too bad. The first pic is the floor opened up, showing the two gray tanks and the black tank vents tied together. I angled the cut so that the subfloor will have support along the edges when I put it back. The second pic is all three tank vents separated, and the third pic is everything buttoned back up.
Today will be spent buttoning up details on the interior and prepping to install the finished floor
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06-10-2017, 07:40 AM
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#148
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 612
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Question
This may be a mute point...but I noticed your wheel wells are sitting on top of the plywood sub floor or is this the outer wheel well?
I have thought why does the trailer need two wheel wells.
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06-10-2017, 09:45 AM
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#149
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Wheel wells
Quote:
Originally Posted by islandtrader
This may be a mute point...but I noticed your wheel wells are sitting on top of the plywood sub floor or is this the outer wheel well?
I have thought why does the trailer need two wheel wells.
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That's the outer well. My guess is that they put two wells in to protect against blowouts. Lucy had a blowout at some point in her life and one of the inner wells was in pretty rough shape, but the outer well was in great shape. The outer well also creates a nice cavity for insulation.
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06-10-2017, 10:53 AM
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#150
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey
That's the outer well. My guess is that they put two wells in to protect against blowouts.
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Picture of my wheel wells after a blow out...so much for that theory...
Attachment 287231
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06-11-2017, 08:49 AM
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#151
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Whoa!
OK, I'll go with 'cavity for insulation' then
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06-13-2017, 08:40 PM
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#152
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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I Feel Pretty Good About The Floor
We had several boxes of commercial grade VCT plank flooring left over from a job at work, so I snagged it and I love the way it turned out. This is the first time I've ever installed VCT plank, and it was super easy to work with. Lucy's going to have a dark floor, natural aluminum shell, white cabinets and red black and gray accents. The third and fourth pics are the 'idea' pics that my wife wants to shoot for on Lucy's interior. Lucy's floor is darker than the idea pics, but we think it'll look great with the white cabinets and the bright aluminum.
I'm waiting for the fresh water tank to arrive from VTS so that I can finish and test the plumbing system, then on to cabinets and appliances!
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06-14-2017, 05:35 AM
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#153
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 612
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Works
It works for me...the nice thing about a renovation is you can do it the way you like. I liken it to a street rod. The body looks original...but every thing else is modern. Some people think it's heresy and others love it. Wait I think that is our political situation now...45/45 and 10% who don't care.
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06-14-2017, 08:26 AM
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#154
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Exactly!
I like both renovations and restorations, and I love the process. Maybe my next trailer will be a restoration
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06-15-2017, 07:43 PM
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#155
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Wet bath shower pan
I had Custom Sheetmetal fabricate the wet bath shower pan, and it's almost perfect, but not quite. I didn't take into account that Lucy is egg shaped. The pan has right angles on the exterior wall, but Lucy's exterior wall is angled, which presents a problem: the part that butts up against the outer wall doesn't quite butt up against the wall. I asked Custom Sheetmetal how hard it would be to angle that part out by 1/4" and they said, 'very hard.' Hmmmmm....what to do, what to do...
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06-16-2017, 06:14 AM
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#156
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey
which presents a problem: the part that butts up against the outer wall doesn't quite butt up against the wall. I asked Custom Sheetmetal how hard it would be to angle that part out by 1/4" and they said, 'very hard.' Hmmmmm....what to do, what to do...
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Not understanding the problem? Is it structural or just aesthetics ? You could always make a shim or small angle piece to cover the gap, and seal it.
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06-16-2017, 11:42 AM
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#157
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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It's more about how to flash the pan
My plan was to skin the wall partitions with 26 gauge 304 Stainless Steel and bring the skin down over the 2" lip of the pan. I made the pan 1/16" larger on the wood walls so that I could inset the pan into the walls. This would allow me to bring the skins down over the pan for a very clean look.
On the exterior wall section of the pan (red arrow) the exterior wall kicks out, so the top of the lip is 1/4" away from the wall. It's not a huge issue, I can bend that one wall skin to cover, but I'll have two funky caulk dependent joints on either side. The pan was $500, so I'm not inclined to do it over, just have to figure out how best to flash it
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06-22-2017, 08:07 PM
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#158
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Plumbing Rough-in 95% Complete and Tested
I've finished roughing in the plumbing system except for the fresh water tank which arrives tomorrow. I hooked the trailer up to city water and no leaks. Sweeeet. I filled the black and gray tanks up and no leaks. Yay. The blue tape is for cabinet layout, and I'm excited to get that started so I can finish installing the electrical system.
I bought aluminum extrusions from VTS to hold the 1/4" wall panels and bending them hasn't been easy. They want to curve off to the left or the right a bit, and they don't want to suck up agains the skin. I'd tired annealing them with a torch, and still it's not great. I'll post pics tomorrow.
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06-23-2017, 10:13 AM
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#159
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3 Rivet Member
2016 30' International
Calgary
, Alberta
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 166
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So how did you like working with the pex? Did all go as planned there? ☺
__________________
Michael and Leah
2016 International Serenity 30'- "Suburban Cliche"
2017 F350 Lariat
Poodle and two cats!
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06-23-2017, 01:37 PM
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#160
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Registered User
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 371
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Easy Like Sunday Morning
It was so fast and easy I thought I was doing something wrong. Clamping it and bracing it is important, but that's easy to do. It's cost effective, efficient, and I really like working with it.
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