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Old 01-30-2018, 09:26 PM   #281
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Back in Business

When I designed Lucy's electrical system, I designed around the WFCO main panel and converter, which has a relatively small footprint. After the WFCO converter failed, I didn't want to buy another one, but unfortunately, the Sterling converter that gator recommended wouldn't fit in the space allocated, so I decided to go with an IOTA DLS 45. Got it installed, and we have power.

Since I was deep into it, I decided to rework the main electrical panel. I added at 12v main switch, a 50 amp fuse at the battery terminal and a small voltmeter. The super cool old-school volt meter from 1900 didn't work

I feel better about my electrical system, now on to the dinette...
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Old 01-30-2018, 10:13 PM   #282
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What did you decide on your water heater? I notice it has wh gas and wh electric. That looks great btw.
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Old 01-31-2018, 08:08 AM   #283
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Water Heater

Thanks Matt,

If you'll notice, I cracked both switch plates when I reinstalled them, so I'm going to reorder. I'm not a perfectionist, but little details like that bug the heck out of me. Two steps forward, one step back

I used a 6 gallon Attwood combo gas/electric unit. It was a perfect fit in the exterior cutout. I riveted the old chimney to the new exterior cover so that it looks period correct.

http://www.adventurerv.net/atwood-ga...source=Froogle
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Old 01-31-2018, 09:53 AM   #284
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I did notice your your switch plates. I would order new ones too- brother from another mother! I really like the clean look! Great job on your remodel. I had to pull away from my build for a year or so to handle construction on the house. But it is time to start again
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:44 PM   #285
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Love the story about your mom and the beautiful pictures of your Mom and Lucy. Your Airstream reno is amazing! A labor of love.

We started demo on the interior of ours last weekend. We are not doing the Full Monty, lol. My husband is making birch cabinets and we are renovating the whole interior. May I ask what cooktop you are using?
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Old 02-01-2018, 07:43 AM   #286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
Thanks Matt,

If you'll notice, I cracked both switch plates when I reinstalled them, so I'm going to reorder. I'm not a perfectionist, but little details like that bug the heck out of me. Two steps forward, one step back

http://www.adventurerv.net/atwood-ga...source=Froogle
What you might want to do next time is use a smaller fastener so it has some slop in the hole...and snug it down then back it off very slightly. That way when it expands and contracts with temperature it won't crack later...
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Old 02-01-2018, 07:56 AM   #287
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Cracked

Quote:
Originally Posted by islandtrader View Post
What you might want to do next time is use a smaller fastener so it has some slop in the hole...and snug it down then back it off very slightly. That way when it expands and contracts with temperature it won't crack later...
That's probably what it is because all four corners are cracked, but they really came apart when I screwed the plates back in. I will indeed take your advise.
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:09 PM   #288
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Lucy Goes For a Spin

I took Lucy out today for the first time since I parked her in the driveway two years ago. I badged her with an authentic 1957 Texas license plate from eBay, hitched her up and drive her to a cabinet maker who's going to fabricate her Corian countertops. I give my cabinet maker a lot of work, so he's going to fabricate Lucy's countertops for free. WooHoo. We went on a 100 mile trek (round trip), and Lucy pulled like a dream. Not a hint of bouncing or swaying, even though I haven't installed her shocks yet. Lucy isn't finished, I have the dinette, cabinet doors, exterior polish and a lot of details left, but she's getting close.
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:34 AM   #289
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I'm so tired of the cold and the rain

I've got doors and drawers cut, ready to be finished, but the weather has been too cold and humid to finish them. I'm so ready for spring
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Old 02-27-2018, 08:10 AM   #290
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Cabinet wood

Pro tip on buying wood for the cabinets: buy the best cabinet grade wood from a local supplier, not from Home Depot. Home Depot's best wood isn't the best. Sure, you'll save a few bucks, but it'll take hours more work to get it to look good. The cost to benefit isn't good, ask me how I know
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:27 AM   #291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
Pro tip on buying wood for the cabinets: buy the best cabinet grade wood from a local supplier, not from Home Depot. Home Depot's best wood isn't the best. Sure, you'll save a few bucks, but it'll take hours more work to get it to look good. The cost to benefit isn't good, ask me how I know
I have seen that movie many times before
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Old 03-03-2018, 08:26 AM   #292
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Slow Progress

I'm right at the two year mark and progress has still been slow because of the cold and the rain. I did manage to get a coat of paint on the drawer fronts. I'm using oil and it takes three coats before they look great. Each coat has to dry 24 hours, so maybe I'll get them installed this week, then onto doors.
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Old 03-05-2018, 04:26 PM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
Pro tip on buying wood for the cabinets: buy the best cabinet grade wood from a local supplier, not from Home Depot. Home Depot's best wood isn't the best. Sure, you'll save a few bucks, but it'll take hours more work to get it to look good. The cost to benefit isn't good, ask me how I know
What thickness are you using for your doors/drawers, 3/4"? It's hard for me to tell from the pics.

I've been trying to save some weight and have been using some 1/2" baltic birch ply for the insides of mine. Hoping it holds up. With 3/4" white wood for the face. Interested in the general specs you're following.

Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:44 PM   #294
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Drawer Fronts

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Originally Posted by tonydead View Post
What thickness are you using for your doors/drawers, 3/4"? It's hard for me to tell from the pics.

I've been trying to save some weight and have been using some 1/2" baltic birch ply for the insides of mine. Hoping it holds up. With 3/4" white wood for the face. Interested in the general specs you're following.

Thanks!
I milled some solid maple down to 3/8" for my drawer fronts, these will be attached to the 1/2" thick birch drawers. I did this because I'm using vintage 3/8" overlay hinges (pic) on the doors and I wanted the drawers to match the profile. If I was a better craftsman I would have made the front of the drawers one piece instead of two and used 3/4". The wood was a little flimsy at first, but I'm using three coats of oil to finish it, and the paint has made the wood very stiff. I think it will hold up well, and if i ever kill a door front for any reason it will be easy to replace. The doors should be ready to install tomorrow, so I hope to post pics
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Old 03-06-2018, 08:25 PM   #295
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We Have Drawers

As mentioned in the last post I milled some solid maple down to 3/8" to make the drawer fronts, finished them with an oil based paint for hardness and durability and attached them to the 1/2" birch drawers with the pull screw. After making fine adjustments I hit them with some 5/8" 18 gauge brads from the back to hold it all in place. I like how it turned out
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Old 03-07-2018, 10:40 AM   #296
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Thanks, those pics help. Good work, looks great!
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:43 AM   #297
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Spare Tire

Spring is springing fast in Austin, so I didn't get much time with Lucy this last weekend, too busy planing my garden. I did manage to install the spare tire and floor jack. I found a nifty spare tire clamp and floor jack carrier on JEGS, and I like the installation, it's clean and accessible from the trunk.
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:29 AM   #298
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I like the installation, it's clean and accessible from the trunk.
Where exactly is it?
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:15 PM   #299
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Spare Tire Location

Hey Islandtrader,

It's located in the trunk, under the bed in the back of the trailer. I've attached a pic looking in from the trunk where it will normally be accessed. If I need to I can also access it by raising the panel under the bed (pic on prior post). I still need to add a 4" PVC tube to hold the folding tire iron, and the floor jack handle. The trunk will also hold the shore power cable and two folding chairs. I've partitioned the area underneath the bed into five areas: 1.) the one accessible from the trunk that holds the spare tire and accessories, 2.) one accessible from the top that will hold a second set of bedding, and is reasonably easy to access, 3.) one accessible from the top that can hold things that don't need to be readily accessed (it's the most difficult to get to, it's under the bed and behind the bathroom), 4.) A super secret locking box (you have to raise the bed and unlock a box, none of you know about this and you're sworn to secrecy), and 5.) an area that contains a drawer (pic in a prior post) that contains a drawer that will hold towels and wash cloths for the bathroom.
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:12 AM   #300
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Hot Water System

The countertops are fabricated and installed, so I finally finished the plumbing system. THE COOLEST THING EVER is that the hot water recirculating system works! I wasn't sure if it would because of the short rise in the hot water main (higher rises work better), but it's enough. I pressurized the system last night, checked for leaks and flipped on the water heater. I came back a few hours later and the circulation system was cold, so I didn't think it was going to work, but I left it on overnight, and viola', this morning the entire system is hot. I think it took awhile because of the short rise, but now I have instant hot water throughout the trailer. So cool.

Since it works I've attached a schematic for anyone who wants to put a gravity circulation system in their trailer. The most important things are 1.) Run the hot water main directly up and as high as you can in the trailer 2.) Run the hot water return as low as you can in the trailer (it's this elevation differential that causes the circulation) 3.) Insulate all hot water lines 4.) MOST CRITICAL: Install a brass swing check valve in the return line at a 30 to 45 degree angle. This ensures that the valve will remain normally open, but when a faucet is opened it will swing shut
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