I Love Lucy

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by DDickey

I wanted an exterior shower for Lucy so I bought this beautiful, very expensive stainless steel transom shower and installed it. Problem is, it didn't occur to me that transom showers don't have to be waterproof, and this one's not. When it rains, it leaks. A lot, dammit. I've searched around and I can't find an aluminum or stainless steel shower box, and I'm not going to put a gray plastic one in. ***sigh***

With out seeing the whole set up...I'm just thinking anyway to seal from the back side (in side). Maybe make a dry well so that would contain the leak and then have a drain? Just thinking boss

[DDickey]

Originally Posted by islandtrader

With out seeing the whole set up...I'm just thinking anyway to seal from the back side (in side). Maybe make a dry well so that would contain the leak and then have a drain? Just thinking boss

Containing it inside the trailer then redirecting it back through the floor might actually work

[mane3215]

What an amazing build! Thanks for the detailed thread. What material are you using for the walls, and do you have a wiring schematic?

I just purchased a 63 Overlander, and the wiring is probably the most intimidating.

[DDickey]

Thanks mane! I used 2024 on the interior. A lot of people opt for 5052 because it's so much cheaper. It really depends on what you want: shiny or not quite so shiny. I do have a wiring diagram. I'm out in the Ozark Mountains for a wedding, but when I get back I'll post it

[mane3215]

Originally Posted by DDickey

Thanks mane! I used 2024 on the interior. A lot of people opt for 5052 because it's so much cheaper. It really depends on what you want: shiny or not quite so shiny. I do have a wiring diagram. I'm out in the Ozark Mountains for a wedding, but when I get back I'll post it

That would be great! Thank you!

In regards to the walls, I misspoke, I actually meant your interior partitions. However, in regards to your walls, how do you intend on keeping the shine?

[DDickey]

Oh, sorry, I'm using birch because it's readily available and cost efficient. I haven't really thought too much about how to keep the 2024 shiny. I suppose I need to research that

[DDickey]

Hey mane3215, here's a one-line diagram of Lucy's wiring. The heart of it all is the WFCO 8930. I've opted to forego solar, so it's a relatively simple system. I only needed 30 amps, but I opted for 50 amps because it wasn't that much more expensive, and I like having spare power. The most expensive piece of a 50 amp system is the shore power cord. The low voltage side has main switches next to the power center so that I can power individual components down when desired, such as when running on battery power. The high voltage side doesn't have switches, but individual components can be powered down with breakers. The water heater switch is a single DPDT switch with low voltage wired on one side and high voltage wired on the other. The high voltage wire is #14, except for AC, converter and microwave which are #12. Low voltage wiring is #14 except for the refrigerator and water pump which are both #12. Fuses are sized based on the lesser of the wiring size, or the fuse called for the the component specifications. I hope this helps you, if you need any help with your electrical system I'm happy to consult.

[DDickey]

Since it's football season I went ahead and installed the TV (Hook 'em Horns!). I recessed it in the cabinet so it wouldn't be in the way when entering the trailer. It's a 12v unit with a built in DVD player, I tested it out and the picture looks great!

While listening to football in the background I installed the Suburban 19K BTU heater. It's sitting in a compartment that will be divided, with the heater on the left, the batteries on the right, and the fridge above. Lots to get right here: gas lines, electrical power, controls, intake and exhaust, calculating return air, setbacks from flammable surfaces, sealing the compartments from one another. I've been taking my time with this section because a screw-up here could be dangerous

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by DDickey

I installed the Suburban 19K BTU heater.

Looks good! I was wondering about a heater...since I know we will only be doing summer...maybe only early fall clamping, I was thinking a A/C heater strip would do the job? Any thoughts?

[DDickey]

The instructions with my Dometic say that the heat strip isn't meant to heat the trailer, but is meant to take the morning chill off. If that's all you'll experience it may work well. That being said, I don't have any experience with it, so I'd see if there are other members who solve the problem this way.

[DDickey]

I finished the gas system the other day and charged it up to test it. I was a plumber 30 years ago, so I was highly confident that my system would be good to go the first time around. Boy was I wrong, twelve of the fourteen joints in the system leaked, and I had to use every trick in the book (almost) to get them to seal. Here's how to get leaky copper flare joints to seal:

1. Check the flare for a split, if the copper is brittle, it will sometimes split (one of my joints was split).

2. Make sure the flare is big enough. The copper should stick up about 3/32" through the flaring tool to make a proper flare (one of my joints was too small)

3. Sand the copper flare. Occasionally a burr will get in the way (I had one burr).

4. Use WD40 (or any oil) to lubricate the flare threads. This will help you get a tighter joint that will compress the copper enough to seal it (this fixed all of the rest of my leaks).

5. If all of that fails, use pipe dope on the sealing surfaces of the flare. I don't like to get to this point because it means the joint is mechanically inferior, but it works.

6. If that doesn't work you can actually solder the flare joint, but it's complicated, and it's the method of last resort. I prefer to cut the flare joint off and start over (if there's enough material). If you have to go this far there are YouTube videos showing how to do it.

[mane3215]

Originally Posted by DDickey

Hey mane3215, here's a one-line diagram of Lucy's wiring. The heart of it all is the WFCO 8930. I've opted to forego solar, so it's a relatively simple system. I only needed 30 amps, but I opted for 50 amps because it wasn't that much more expensive, and I like having spare power. The most expensive piece of a 50 amp system is the shore power cord. The low voltage side has main switches next to the power center so that I can power individual components down when desired, such as when running on battery power. The high voltage side doesn't have switches, but individual components can be powered down with breakers. The water heater switch is a single DPDT switch with low voltage wired on one side and high voltage wired on the other. The high voltage wire is #14, except for AC, converter and microwave which are #12. Low voltage wiring is #14 except for the refrigerator and water pump which are both #12. Fuses are sized based on the lesser of the wiring size, or the fuse called for the the component specifications. I hope this helps you, if you need any help with your electrical system I'm happy to consult.

Fantastic! Thank you for the diagram and the offer!

[DDickey]

The bathroom is taking shape. The walls are going to be tricky because they’re going to be clad with 26 ga stainless on the inside of the bathroom. The tricky part is the stainless has to insert into the F channel on the wall, lap the shower pan, line up perfectly with corner of the wall and then be glued together with the 1/4” wall panel. I’m still not entirely sure how I’m going to assemble this

[DDickey]

Working on the bathroom partitions and the chest of drawers that will be curbside in front of the bed. I wish I liked to paint.

[DDickey]

...so i can't put the final coat of paint on the bathroom partitions. I was hoping to paint today and install the portions tomorrow, but I probably won't be able to do it until next week now. Soooooooooo...I've decided to start working on screens and, yup, sure enough, they take way longer than I thought they would - about an hour or so for each one. Here's to eight more hours of screen work

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by DDickey

...so i can't put the final coat of paint on the bathroom partitions. I was hoping to paint today and install the portions tomorrow, but I probably won't be able to do it until next week now. Soooooooooo...I've decided to start working on screens and, yup, sure enough, they take way longer than I thought they would - about an hour or so for each one. Here's to eight more hours of screen work

Did you buy the special screen tool from VTS? I did and after one or two screens done, it's not to bad...

[DDickey]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but the VTS screen tool doesn't tuck the screen in the channel very well. I made a plastic tool to finish tucking the screen after using the VTS tool, and that works really well. It takes a bit of work to cut/trim/tuck/trim/tuck/etc... but I'm happy with the results.

Am I just not using the VTS tool right?

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by DDickey

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but the VTS screen tool doesn't tuck the screen in the channel very well. I made a plastic tool to finish tucking the screen after using the VTS tool, and that works really well. It takes a bit of work to cut/trim/tuck/trim/tuck/etc... but I'm happy with the results.

Am I just not using the VTS tool right?

The way I did it was clamp the frame down over cut the screen and then roll one side in. After that I pulled to the opposite side hard and started with the tool all over again. Repeat on side three and etc....

Did you buy the screen from VTS? Its heavier than the box stores...

[DDickey]

Did you it with the frames out? If so, that would work a lot better because you can angle the tool just right. I didn't think about putting screens in with the frames out, and the inner frame interferes with the installation with them in, hence, the plastic tool.

I'm not sure where the screen came from, the roll came with the trailer. My guess would be VTS, though, because the PO had several other purchases from VTS in a box

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by DDickey

Did you it with the frames out? If so, that would work

Yes frames out. When I was looking at them I thought to myself how in the hell would you put screens on when everything is in place. Now I guess you are finding out ha ha. Good luck .