Greetings Mark!
Welcome to the world of Vintage Airstreaming.
There is a tremendous amount of information available regarding this hobby from a number of places. Your coach is one of the first coaches following a redesign, and is likely designated an Overlander based upon its 27' length. In the past few years, the longer Airstreams have become much more collectible, and your Overlander would be an example of these.
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Does the grey water and black water go to the same tank?
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The answer is not automatically, but it is one possibility. In 1969, Airstreams did not have standard gray water tanks. It wouldn't be until 1973 (factory option) or 1974 (standard feature) that one could find an Airstream with a factory gray water tank. If your Overlander came with an owner's manual, it should describe the method for "backing" the gray water up into the blackwater tank. The basic run-down is to place a solid cap on the terminator valve and then open the blackwater tank valve thus allowing the gray water to "flow" or "back-up" into the blackwater tank. Be prepared, however, as it does create a problem when dumping the tank. Prior to dumping the blackwater tank, it is then necessary to close the blackwater tank valve in preparation for the dumping operation - - this traps some waste between the valve and cap assembly - - have a bucket ready as this waste will flow out as soon as the cap is opened.
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The lights turn off momentarily when you have 5 or more on while the trailer is pluged in to 110. any ideas?
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Electrical problems are not my forte, but I would suspect one of three things. A bad or loose ground somewhere in the circuit would be my first suspicion. A Univolt that is experiencing some difficulties would be another possibility. A circuit breaker of fuse that is weak or defective.
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Should I try lighting the furnace and hot water heater?
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This is an area of great potential danger. I would never consider lighting any propane appliances until a trained LP Gas technician has inspected the system and verified that all appliances are safe to operate. It may be an expense, but it is a life-health-safety issue. If these are the original furnace and water heater, they are at or near the end of their usual useful life so it is very critical to have them checked-out by a qualified technician.(IMHO)
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How do I know if the propane tanks need to be updated?
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One indicator is to look at the valve on each tank. The valve should be labeled "OPD". (Most OPD valve handles that I have seen are of a triangular shape while the older valve handles were typically more rounded.) You should also find a stamp or label indicating when the current inspection runs out on the tanks. In addtion to having the OPD valves, the tanks must also be current on their inspection/certification before some (all in my area) suppliers will refill them. The tanks should have a date of manufacture stamped toward the top of the collar - - if this date is more than 12-years past, the tanks will need to be inspected certified if there isn't an additional stamp or tag indicating that they have been inspected/certified. If your tanks are Worthington Aluminum tanks or other Aluminum tanks, refitting and certification will likely be quite cost-effective; if however, they are steel tanks, it might be just as cost-effective to purchase new tanks. When I purchased my first OPD tanks for the '64 Overlander, my existing tanks were old steel units and it was less costly to purchase similar new tanks. I am having my original 1978 Worthington Aluminum tanks refitted/certified on my Argosy Minuet, but I have been quoted a date of April 15 as the earliest that the valves will be available for the 20 lb. tanks from my supplier.
Good luck with your Overlander! I am sure it will give you many years of enjoyment.
Kevin
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