How to install/attach shelves?

[FeltonAS]

I have a 1976 31' AS I'm working on cosmetic upgrades for. I'm building/installing a new front couch, new bed, etc etc... On the opposite wall of the kitchen are a number of large cabinets that have been painted (badly) a very ugly pink. When walking through the little asile from the front to the back, it gets pretty claustrophobic and tight. I'd like to remove these shelves, and install just lower cabinets for about a 5ft section, move the fridge to the left of this lower cabinet/counter top section, and then open shelves above this.

My question is - can I connect shelves to the wall by screwing them through the vinyl, onto the ribs behind it? As you would finding a wood stud in a house?

Anything majorly stupid this newbie is missing? I've just fully renovated my house over the last two years, so I really enjoy such projects. My AS is not going to be on the road much at all - it'll be a rental residence/possibly my residence located on my 5 acre property.

Thanks all!

[memgrove2000]

Well the fridge has an outside door, a vent in the floor , and a roof vent, at some point it will also run into the wheel well (Look in the bottom of those cabinets). Want to move those too? Moving the fridge is more work than it looks like from the inside and may be as far aft as it can go. I suggest not moving it.

Welcome to the forums and good luck.

[A W Warn]

Also keep in mind when you mount things to the walls, there are wires running through those ribs, 12v and 120v, that will need to be located prior to drilling. And consider the location of the AC drain if it is hidden in the wall.

[FeltonAS]

The fridge vents are for the propane, correct? If I were to replace it with a small, regular. 120v. fridge, would the location be as crucial? Obviously not where the wheel well is, that's a good point!

[memgrove2000]

The vents are for air flow to the back of the fridge. The original fridge will need the vents for both LP and electric operation. If you switch to a non rv electric only it will still produce some heat but I dont think it will be harmful, just something else for the air conditioner to overcome to make the interior comfortabe in the heat. It will also mean you will have to have electric hookups every time you use your trailer. Ultimately it is your trailer and you may do as you wish just try to think of all the things you want to do with the trailer before you start.

[Splitrock]

1976 Airstreams are nice trailers.



I attached everything to the floor and the inside skin like the OEM did.



My cabinets are fronts attached to side panels sitting on the floor. The counters set on the faces, and sides with metal connections at the back walls.

I connected everything just like the Airstream builders did.

Good luck with your project.

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[FeltonAS]

Looks really nice!

I was thinking L brackets for a small shelf to run above the cabinets. I'll be sure to through the wiring diagram to be sure I attach only to ribs without any wiring in them!

I'll keep the fridge as is. And just replace what is to the left with traditional base cabinets and a counter top.

This AS will be pretty stationary. It is just too big to move in/out of my property (out in the redwoods, narrow, long driveway with a sharp turn off the road)! If I move it, it will be because I buy another piece of property and move it once to become my home there

Thanks again all!

[KathrynOKC]

That looks great.

[tinyhome]

The cabinets and floor look incredible. Awesome job!