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Old 04-05-2016, 02:56 PM   #1
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How do I kill the propane alarm ?

Have a 2016 FC 28W. I am putting it in storage and found that the battery disconnect does not kill the propane alarm or the power tongue jack.
How can I disconnect the power to these?
Don't see a fuse to either
Thanks
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:00 PM   #2
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My 2015 Flying Cloud has an in-line glass fuse to the tongue jack. On the propane alarm, you may have to remove it from the wall and unplug it in the back.

Brian
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:44 PM   #3
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Or pull out a drawer, cut the hot wire and put a switch on it. Not a recommendation, just how we handled it. It's on our hookup check list, if we ever sell it I'll take out the switch and splice the wires.
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:48 PM   #4
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The propane alarm power line is connected to the positive bus near the store use/relay so it always draws power when the batteries are connected despite the store/use switch in store mode. I moved it from that bus to attached it to the store use relay terminal so when it's in store mode it doesn't come on unless shore power connected.

The power jack fuse is located under the A frame probably. The jack won't draw any power.

It's probably easier just to disconnect the negative battery cable while the trailer is in storage.

Kelvin
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:00 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
The propane alarm power line is connected to the positive bus near the store use/relay so it always draws power when the batteries are connected despite the store/use switch in store mode. I moved it from that bus to attached it to the store use relay terminal so when it's in store mode it doesn't come on unless shore power connected.

The power jack fuse is located under the A frame probably. The jack won't draw any power.

It's probably easier just to disconnect the negative battery cable while the trailer is in storage.

Kelvin
I did likewise.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:12 PM   #6
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For storage, disconnect your negative battery terminal & all parasite draw is eliminated.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:17 PM   #7
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For storage, disconnect your negative battery terminal & all parasite draw is eliminated.
That's a PITA, especially for those of us who have batteries stuffed in behind little doors. Besides, I want a STORE switch to prepare for STORAGE, like the name implies. That's all I use a store switch for.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Or pull out a drawer, cut the hot wire and put a switch on it. Not a recommendation, just how we handled it. It's on our hookup check list, if we ever sell it I'll take out the switch and splice the wires.
^
Yep

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Old 04-05-2016, 05:30 PM   #9
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Isn't there a kill switch you can install in your battery box (or on your battery box)? I think I've seen pictures of them - big red knobs or something like that.
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:46 PM   #10
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Isn't there a kill switch you can install in your battery box (or on your battery box)? I think I've seen pictures of them - big red knobs or something like that.
Or you can buy replacement battery clamps that have a built in knob disconnect on them - a quick turn of the knob and the battery is disconnected.

I have used them for a few years - the main reason I do so is that we still have the original "Non Smart" factory installed charger in our trailer, and if we are camped someplace on shore power for more than a couple of days I like to disconnect the AGM batteries in case they might be damaged by seeing 13.8 - 13.9v continually.

Brian
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:31 PM   #11
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Hmm - are you talking about something like this?

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mor-...FRFahgodk8kAyQ

That might be worth looking in to. You can still close the battery box I assume 😁
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Old 04-06-2016, 12:37 AM   #12
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One could replace the 1A glass fuse with a 15A fuse, tap into the LP alarm circuit and add perhaps a 12V outlet (non existing in the late model airstreams like in our 25FB), perhaps add a switch somewhere hidden... viola, more functionality and no drain on the battery when the trailer is stored and the LP is turned off at the source anyways. Safety rules are only good if they make sense - common sense is often forgotten in the real world, but sometimes a good thing.

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Old 04-06-2016, 07:07 AM   #13
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Here's my thought process on my preferred method of moving the power supply to the switched side of the store switch.

1) RVIA, or code, requires the propane detector to be "hot" at all times.....but that's for manufacturers.
2) When in storage, there are no occupants to hear the warning anyway.
3) If you use an additional switch, or take out the fuse, it would be easy to forget to switch on or replace fuse each time you take the camper out of storage.
4) If you wire to the store switch, it will always be turned on when you switch the coach lighting back on....your not going to forget to do that, as soon as it gets dark, anyway.

Eliminates senioritis.
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:20 AM   #14
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I kind of like the idea that I'd be warned if the trailer was filling up with propane while in storage.
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