How do I kill the propane alarm ?

[MOS]

Have a 2016 FC 28W. I am putting it in storage and found that the battery disconnect does not kill the propane alarm or the power tongue jack.
How can I disconnect the power to these?
Don't see a fuse to either
Thanks

[moosetags]

My 2015 Flying Cloud has an in-line glass fuse to the tongue jack. On the propane alarm, you may have to remove it from the wall and unplug it in the back.

Brian

[dkottum]

Or pull out a drawer, cut the hot wire and put a switch on it. Not a recommendation, just how we handled it. It's on our hookup check list, if we ever sell it I'll take out the switch and splice the wires.

[KJRitchie]

The propane alarm power line is connected to the positive bus near the store use/relay so it always draws power when the batteries are connected despite the store/use switch in store mode. I moved it from that bus to attached it to the store use relay terminal so when it's in store mode it doesn't come on unless shore power connected.

The power jack fuse is located under the A frame probably. The jack won't draw any power.

It's probably easier just to disconnect the negative battery cable while the trailer is in storage.

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

The propane alarm power line is connected to the positive bus near the store use/relay so it always draws power when the batteries are connected despite the store/use switch in store mode. I moved it from that bus to attached it to the store use relay terminal so when it's in store mode it doesn't come on unless shore power connected.

The power jack fuse is located under the A frame probably. The jack won't draw any power.

It's probably easier just to disconnect the negative battery cable while the trailer is in storage.

Kelvin

I did likewise.

[Mrjkq]

For storage, disconnect your negative battery terminal & all parasite draw is eliminated.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Mrjkq

For storage, disconnect your negative battery terminal & all parasite draw is eliminated.

That's a PITA, especially for those of us who have batteries stuffed in behind little doors. Besides, I want a STORE switch to prepare for STORAGE, like the name implies. That's all I use a store switch for.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by dkottum

Or pull out a drawer, cut the hot wire and put a switch on it. Not a recommendation, just how we handled it. It's on our hookup check list, if we ever sell it I'll take out the switch and splice the wires.

^
Yep

Bob

[SteveSueMac]

Isn't there a kill switch you can install in your battery box (or on your battery box)? I think I've seen pictures of them - big red knobs or something like that.

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Isn't there a kill switch you can install in your battery box (or on your battery box)? I think I've seen pictures of them - big red knobs or something like that.

Or you can buy replacement battery clamps that have a built in knob disconnect on them - a quick turn of the knob and the battery is disconnected.

I have used them for a few years - the main reason I do so is that we still have the original "Non Smart" factory installed charger in our trailer, and if we are camped someplace on shore power for more than a couple of days I like to disconnect the AGM batteries in case they might be damaged by seeing 13.8 - 13.9v continually.

Brian

[SteveSueMac]

Hmm - are you talking about something like this?

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mor-...FRFahgodk8kAyQ

That might be worth looking in to. You can still close the battery box I assume 😁

[Knuff]

One could replace the 1A glass fuse with a 15A fuse, tap into the LP alarm circuit and add perhaps a 12V outlet (non existing in the late model airstreams like in our 25FB), perhaps add a switch somewhere hidden... viola, more functionality and no drain on the battery when the trailer is stored and the LP is turned off at the source anyways. Safety rules are only good if they make sense - common sense is often forgotten in the real world, but sometimes a good thing.

Some pictures are attached

[dznf0g]

Here's my thought process on my preferred method of moving the power supply to the switched side of the store switch.

1) RVIA, or code, requires the propane detector to be "hot" at all times.....but that's for manufacturers.
2) When in storage, there are no occupants to hear the warning anyway.
3) If you use an additional switch, or take out the fuse, it would be easy to forget to switch on or replace fuse each time you take the camper out of storage.
4) If you wire to the store switch, it will always be turned on when you switch the coach lighting back on....your not going to forget to do that, as soon as it gets dark, anyway.

Eliminates senioritis.

[Wayne&Sam]

I kind of like the idea that I'd be warned if the trailer was filling up with propane while in storage.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

I kind of like the idea that I'd be warned if the trailer was filling up with propane while in storage.

How would you be warned? I do have a NEST camera with phone alerts for noise and motion, but I'm probably the exception. My solar handles the alarm anyway now.

If you store at home, I suppose you might catch it while working in the yard. But aren't you closing the propane bottles while in storage anyway? Soooooo.....

Everyone does it differently, I suppose.

[ghaynes755]

In today's litigious climate give some thought to adding anything to the propane circuit. Bad scenario would be you sell the trailer with your modification, the buyer isn't told or forgets the change that you made, propane leak, explosion, death. You get the drift.

Might be better to get a battery cutoff switch if you can't get to the batteries to disconnect the negative.

On my Classic there is an inline fuse for the propane detector located as previously mentioned at the bus bar.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by ghaynes755

In today's litigious climate give some thought to adding anything to the propane circuit. Bad scenario would be you sell the trailer with your modification, the buyer isn't told or forgets the change that you made, propane leak, explosion, death. You get the drift.

Might be better to get a battery cutoff switch if you can't get to the batteries to disconnect the negative.

On my Classic there is an inline fuse for the propane detector located as previously mentioned at the bus bar.

It only takes 5 minutes to switch it back to the other side of the store switch when sold. And I doubt anyone is going to forget in my modification scenario...as there would be no lighting, furnace. fridge.....etc. until the store switch is turned on.

[WestieHouse]

If propane is turned off at the tanks there is no source for propane to get into the trailer except what is already in the lines. I assume those can be purged easily.

I installed a battery disconnect switch (about $5.00 at a NAPA store, but available at other auto stores). It took 10 minutes to install. Battery cover closes fine on my 2015 23 FB. Now I easily disconnect from all parasitic loads AND the jack (added security) when in storage. Takes 30 sec to reconnect the battery. This was very helpful to disconnect power when I recently installed an upgrade to the Parallax converter with a Progressive Dynamics multistage converter/charger (PD4655).

[2dabeach]

I cut the hot wire going to the back of the detector and put a switch in that can be reached by opening the lower drawer under our sink. If you shut off your propane at the tanks you should not have any leaks inside the trailer when your in storage. If your a senior citizen like me, and need a reminder to turn on the detector when your camping, you can put a red ribbon in the drawer and flip it out side the drawer whenever the detector switch is in the off position. You'll find your batteries will hold a charge for a very long time with the detector off.

[switz]

It would seem that a more effective device would close the open propane valve if a leak were detected. The noise does nothing if no one is there to hear it.