Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-17-2017, 03:54 AM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
1980 31' International
Nashville , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 11
How do I jack up and safely stabilize my airstream for permanent parking?

1980 International - Center Bath / Rear Bed - 31'

Hi,

I'm curious to learn how to jack up and permanently park my airstream on my land. She's a good girl but her days on the road are done. I'm going to build her a nice deck with a grill and an outdoor shower down the line, but first, I need to get her safely parked.

The pad I graded has a slight downward slope (4-5"), as my hill side has springs and the ability for the pad to drain is crucial. The entrance door is on this downward leaning side. The trailer is currently parked and chocked in its final resting place. It's noteworthy here to share that I experienced a flat on one of the wheels on this downward leaning side in transit just today, but I figure I'm about to have it up to change it soon anyhow.

With all of that in mind, does anyone have any guidance on a best practice for jacking her up and building necessary piers/wooden frame/foundation/pad/??? under her so she can live a long, level, stable, and safe life?

Many thanks for the guidance!!
__________________

adell50 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2017, 05:05 AM   #2
1 Rivet Member
 
1980 31' International
Nashville , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 11
I found this quick and helpful video.

https://youtu.be/vyk2OltL430

Two main pints come to mind:

1 - my trailer is on a grade that has a slight slope downward, which is causing it to lean. Front to back I am level. There will be more height in the blocking on the front to make up the difference.

2 - where should the blocks be placed in the rear and front? Adjacent to the stock stabilizers? A set of blocks should go under the axle(s).

Anyone have any ideas on this??

Many thanks!!
__________________

__________________
1980 Airstream International 31'

Stay Close
adell50 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2017, 10:20 PM   #3
1 Rivet Member
 
1980 31' International
Nashville , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 11
Anyone have any ideas??
__________________
1980 Airstream International 31'

Stay Close
adell50 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 03:00 AM   #4
Reads a lot

 
2017 30' Classic
Titusville , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 983
Images: 1
I see you posted this question several days ago. I am sorry you have not received any informed responses. Wish I could help but I have no idea just thought I would try and keep this post alive long enough for someone to help. Good luck. I do know that you will need to be very careful as to how you stabilized your Airstream for permanent dry dock so you don’t bend the frame. The stabilizers are just that, they help reduce bouncing but they aren’t jacks. Too much load on them and you can do serious damage but I’m sure you knew that already.
__________________
Lauri

She Believed She Could so She Did.
kendrick.l.j is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 03:48 AM   #5
2 Rivet Member
 
2015 16' Sport
Lakeridge , Virginia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 75
You might try contacting a mobile home installation company for a free estimate and arrange for a side job.

Here's another YouTube that may help.

Peanut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 08:11 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
A W Warn's Avatar
 
2000 25' Safari
1999 34' Excella
Davidson County, NC , Highlands County, FL
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,975
When you set your trailer into position for the last time level it up just like you were spending one night. Use blocking under the low tires to get the trailer leveled left to right. Then use the tongue jack to level front to rear.

What I would do after that: (building contractor hat on now:-)
I would leave the tires, wheels, axles as they are, because at some time this trailer will be moved again.
Behind the tires, the frame is reinforced with an axle mounting plate. 85% of the trailer's weight is carried there when it is being towed, so it should be adequate while it is parked.
Four tires and the tongue jack are the normal load bearing points, so I did some rough calculations based on five load carrying points. I find five 8" x 16" footings will support your trailer adequately for gravity load, assuming a soil bearing capacity of 2k lb/sf. (1.33' x .666' x 2,000 lb x 5 = ~8,856) This is not considering the load that the stabilizer jacks will support, so there is a safety factor already included.(though, not considering frost heave or wind loads)
I would purchase nine 4" x 8" x 16" solid concrete masonry units (commonly called CMU or concrete block).
I would place one beneath the tongue jack.
I would place one beneath each stabilizer jack, total of four.
I would place one CMU directly beneath each end of the axle mounting plate, total of four CMU.
I would place each CMU in a hole so that the top of the CMU is just above the dirt. It would be a good idea to use pressure treated wood block cut the same size as the CMU directly on top of the CMU to spread the load uniformly onto the CMU to prevent it from breaking.
I would use some sort of solid wood cribbing or an ajustable jack stand between the CMU and the axle mounting plate to support the weight of the trailer. These four points will carry the majority of the load, so they must be substantial.
Then reduce air pressure in the tires, but not completely flat (so that the load is reduced on the tires and onto the bearing points).
Adjust the stabilizer jacks and tongue jack as you normally would.

It will be difficult to wind tie an Airstream like a mobile home would be done, since the frame is not exposed beneath the trailer. If you feel you need to, you could tie it down using the A frame in front and skid plates at the rear.

I store my Excella in Florida where tying down is a requirement of the property owner, if the trailer is left unattended. I drilled one hole in each skid plate then added a shackle bolt. I drilled four auger anchors (from Lowes) into the earth. Stainless steel cable is looped through the shackle bolts and auger anchors then clamped with two cable clamps. The front cables are looped over the A frame.

My trailer was within 20 miles of the eye wall of Hurricane Irma this year. It was tied as above. It did not move when exposed to 100+mph winds. There was no damage, except a few scratches from wind blown debris.
__________________
Alan
2014 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab 5.3L maximum trailering package (yes, I'm towing the 34')
A W Warn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 08:59 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
A W Warn's Avatar
 
2000 25' Safari
1999 34' Excella
Davidson County, NC , Highlands County, FL
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,975
ps:
In my prior post I did not consider building code. If there is a requirement at the location where you will be placing the trailer, you must follow those requirements.

I "think" if you leave the wheel/tires in place and do not change the method of plumbing or electric connection, the classification remains RV/ travel trailer. So, none of the footings or tying is a code requirement, since you could theoretically just hook up and drive away.
__________________
Alan
2014 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab 5.3L maximum trailering package (yes, I'm towing the 34')
A W Warn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 09:02 AM   #8
Rivet Master
 
Al and Missy's Avatar

 
2002 30' Classic S/O
Melbourne Beach , Florida
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,812
Alan,
Really nice and thorough response!

Al
__________________

"You cannot reason someone out of a position they have not been reasoned into"

Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO
2002 Classic 30 Slideout
S/OS #004
2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
2001 Safari 25 RB Twin (Gone, but not forgotten)
WBCCI 1322, TAC FL-39, AIR 82265

Al and Missy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 09:17 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
A W Warn's Avatar
 
2000 25' Safari
1999 34' Excella
Davidson County, NC , Highlands County, FL
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,975
One suggestion; build a patio on the ground, not an elevated deck.
If/when down the line you build that deck. Build it 2 feet or so away from the trailer and do not attach the deck to the trailer in any way. At the door build a bridge between the trailer and deck that can be removed easily.
Whoever finds this trailer when you are done will appreciate that. It will be more likely the trailer can live on into the future. And, if you change your mind it will be easier sell it and/or to drive away without dismantling the deck.
__________________
Alan
2014 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab 5.3L maximum trailering package (yes, I'm towing the 34')
A W Warn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 07:27 PM   #10
1 Rivet Member
 
1980 31' International
Nashville , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 11
This is simply excellent feedback. Thank you so much.
__________________
1980 Airstream International 31'

Stay Close
adell50 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2017, 11:12 PM   #11
Vintage Kin
 
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 7,855
Images: 1
Great info, AW Warn!
slowmover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2017, 02:53 AM   #12
Rivet Master
 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 7,635
Excellent suggestions so far. In terms of keeping the AS as a mobile home "vehicle" legally, you might also have to keep the plates active with the DMV, which might include minimal insurance coverage. If the trailer loses its status as a "vehicle" under state law, all kinds of zoning and building code issues might mess up your plans IMO, as suggested in an earlier comment. You don't want it to become a "structure" sitting on your land. The deck is another matter, and it would behoove you to build it in compliance with the codes, as well, if required in your local municipality. A hidden location for all of this will work in your favor, as prying eyes have messed up plenty of plans like this.



One nosy neighbor is all it takes . . .

Good luck!

Peter

PS -- Don't forget that the black water holding tank will not work that well to process solid waste products, unless you plan ahead for this.
__________________

OTRA15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Stabilize bars Tiffin The Rally Zone 15 06-20-2018 08:04 PM
stabilize roof for fan? MAJORJDB Roof Vents, Skylights & Fans 11 06-25-2017 12:16 PM
Best way to level & stabilize a '60 glw73069 Jacks, Stabilizers, Lifting and Leveling 4 07-15-2015 01:23 PM
Courtesy parking or rental parking needed, Perris Valley, California skydiva Our Community 1 01-13-2011 06:13 PM
Pipe Frame stabilize/reinforcement Vintage One Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 1 07-05-2010 12:54 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.