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Old 12-15-2015, 06:01 PM   #1
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How bad is this idea??

So I've been pondering insulation and such as I'm mentally gearing up to replace the interior skins. Regardless of how well I insulate the walls there is still a direct conductive hear transfer from the exterior skin to the ribs to the interior skin and vise versa depending on temps. I had been contemplating a thermal break between the interior skin and the ribs such as putting a sheet of prodex over the ribs as I put the interior skins on. I think it will compress the prodex where the rivets are and may cause bubbles or waviness where it isn't compressed between the rivets. So I'm shying away from the prodex idea. But if I had a material that wasn't spongy or compressible that would also serve as an effective thermal break I'd be more likely to try it. What are other people's thoughts and ideas in this?
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Old 12-15-2015, 06:55 PM   #2
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Regardless of the material used, the rivets will still provide points of thermal bridging through the assembly. I'd avoid anything organic for obvious reasons. You might try strips of EPDM (synthetic rubber used for roofing). It comes in various thicknesses from 45mil to 90mil. We use this material to protect vertical wood strapping from weather exposure prior to applying siding in reinsure applications.
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cardinal283 View Post
So I've been pondering insulation and such as I'm mentally gearing up to replace the interior skins. Regardless of how well I insulate the walls there is still a direct conductive hear transfer from the exterior skin to the ribs to the interior skin and vise versa depending on temps. I had been contemplating a thermal break between the interior skin and the ribs such as putting a sheet of prodex over the ribs as I put the interior skins on. I think it will compress the prodex where the rivets are and may cause bubbles or waviness where it isn't compressed between the rivets. So I'm shying away from the prodex idea. But if I had a material that wasn't spongy or compressible that would also serve as an effective thermal break I'd be more likely to try it. What are other people's thoughts and ideas in this?
Try contacting Colin Hyde to ask his opinion. I know he uses some form of thermal break on his remodels, I just can't recall what he does.
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:31 PM   #4
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That has been tried before, I've seen someone mention it somewhere on the forums....the added thickness of prodex would cause your exsisting holes in your wall panels to not line up with the ribs holes. Another fellow used silver duct tape and he had the issue of he couldn't see where his existing holes were in the ribs when it came time to put the wall back on. He got fed up pulled the panels and ripped the tape off. When I did mine I used bright blue insulating electrical tape. I taped it on the ribs then rubbed my thumb along the ribs to find where the rivets holes go through and I went around with a fine tipped exacto knife and trimmed each circle out so when it came time to put my walls back in I had zero issues. I cannot recommend enough how handy Clecos are, I would have been very sad if I did not own these... Spring Clecos
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:44 PM   #5
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Can't seem to find my close up but this is what it looked like.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:15 PM   #6
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I overlayed the ribs with prodex on 2 trailers so far. Both have all new interior skins so lining up holes was a nonissue. My personal trailer has 20,000 miles on it and has only popped 1 rivet to date. On it, I used .025 thick 3003 aluminum for the interior because it was all I could get locally. It lays nice and flat but does dent easier then the .032 I have since used. I did use a closer rivet spacing than stock. So far I'm very pleased with the result. I can't empirical say if the thermal properties are better but the install is much faster than fitting the second layer between the ribs.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:36 PM   #7
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Insulation

Sheets of asphalt soundproofing material comes to mind. Check out The Soundcoat Company, world leader in sound insulation and noise control
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:36 PM   #8
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Similar to the sign lady, we used a good quality gaffer's tape over all the ribs except we left it off where there were rivet holes so our Clecos could find a home. Cameron is right that the rivets have no thermal break but most of the surface area does.

For insulation we chose mineral fiber (aka rockwool) batts. Walls were done starting with 3" thickness then slicing down to 1 1/2" with an electric carving knife.
Jim
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:17 PM   #9
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... we used a good quality gaffer's tape over all the ribs...
(Gaffer's tape, huh? Q:You know the difference between a gaffer and a cinematographer? A About $3000/week.)
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:47 PM   #10
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I'll be putting in new aluminum. So the old holes are a non issue.

I had considered using the fiberglass wrap that is used to wrap engine exhaust pipes near heat sensitive objects. Any thoughts on that idea?
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:49 PM   #11
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Why not replace the upper ribs with homemade carbon fiber ribs. I estimate you can create a 12 foot rib for about $200. You need the original rib for the mold and some 4" carbon fiber tape, epoxy and a simple vacuum system.


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Old 12-16-2015, 09:24 PM   #12
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Why not replace the upper ribs with homemade carbon fiber ribs. I estimate you can create a 12 foot rib for about $200. You need the original rib for the mold and some 4" carbon fiber tape, epoxy and a simple vacuum system.


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Yeah. I'll get right on that. 😂
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:43 PM   #13
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I used. 1/32 double sided foam tape . See my post 563 here.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1565193

It did make finding the holes a real bear! I know that in the heat of the summer there was considerable difference in the the temp of the front of the rib where the tape was vs the sides of the rib.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:55 PM   #14
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Given walls ~1-1/2" thick with fiberglass insulation for a whopping R 5.7 why bother?
Just curious ...
Really.
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