Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-27-2018, 12:27 PM   #1
New Member
 
1976 31' Excella 500
Toronto , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 4
Hi, new owner and a tonne of newbie advice appreciated!

Hi, I’m Simon a very new (4days ago!) owner of “Paddy” - a 1976 31 excella in desperate need of renovation (or resurrection). I’ve been doing a lot of research in the forums, and thank you to everyone that’s taken the time to post advice and tips - it’s already saved me a few costly mistakes! After a few days the interior strip out is coming along well, but as I’m sure happens to everyone, starting to get a bit overwhelmed with the thousand new things rattling around my head about solar power systems, batteries, everywhere plumbing, body repair etc etc etc ��

Attached are a couple of pics of Paddy, a little beaten up but hopefully a diamond in the rough... currently in a state of stripping out the interior.

As expected of an airstream this age the floor is showing severe signs of rot by the door, feels spongy near the front and in the bathroom at the rear - so onto my first question:

1) which ply to replace the subfloor? From the forums I understand now to steer clear of pressure treated and that marine ply is probably the ultimate - however that’s not easy for me to get delivered so what would you recommend as the next best alternative that’s easily available? What sizes do you recommend?

Which leads onto my second question...

2) my plan is to replace the subfloor and I have read about the necessity of epoxy on the subfloor (especially the edges) - what brands / types do you recommend?

And finally (for now!)

3) flushing of tanks - the plumbing system was inoperable so needs to be completely replaced, so makes sense to make it as good as it can be in modern specs rather then just replacing like for like on a 40 year old design, but before I get to that point I was wondering if I could ask for a couple of newbie pointers on ensuring the tanks are drained / best way to cap the remaining pipes while other work is going on and how to check if the tanks need replacing? Looking at a lot of recent reviews it seems composting toilets could be a viable option and that would negate the need for a black water system. We will be wanting grey obviously but what do you recommend for fresh? If we decide to keep a black tank system for the toilet is there space under the floor to fit a new fresh (and downgrade the old fresh to grey)? Obviously if we remove the black tank there should be plenty of room for a new fresh - any pitfalls to watch out for?


Many thanks and appreciate any advice!

Simon
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	0E3268E3-F867-456C-917C-2AAF5ADFCBF9.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	494.9 KB
ID:	307299   Click image for larger version

Name:	1399499A-5CB3-4B3B-A50B-D6420AFCC550.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	255.0 KB
ID:	307300  

Click image for larger version

Name:	436BC616-C165-485E-898D-70A74B8A39DA.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	229.5 KB
ID:	307301  
PaddyTinCan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2018, 09:16 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
sgschwend's Avatar
 
1986 25' Sovereign
2008 F350, 6.4L diesel , Oak Harbor, WA
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 605
Images: 13
Looks like a front kitchen rear bath.
For the floor, I would carefully cut out the plywood to be replaced. Make you final edge land 1/2 on a frame member. Remove only what you need. Then take a look at what is needed to be installed. My guess is that you can do spot repairs and therefore a shell off is not necessary.
For the size of the plywood you can measure what you have. Mine was 5/8". I did notice that the box store in town had some supply of marine plywood. On my trailer the plywood was rabbited so it would fit in the C channel.

While you have those opening look at the frame to make sure it is good. Also check for rear separation (there are threads describing what to look for), and lastly check your wheel well metal.

I think your leaks sound very familiar to the same places our trailer. Even though we resealed all the windows and every other place we could find we still had leaks. To stop the frustration we coated the roof with a coating designed for metal roofs. I did post some pics and a description.

As to the plumbing, the waste side is very simple and as long as the tanks hold water I would just clean them. The gate valves cost about $55 ea, there are two of them. There is affordable replacement heads even with porcelain elongated bowls.

If the pressure side piping is grey in color you will need to replace it. Keep the old stuff just to show how things are connected. PEX with crimp type fittings is the way to go.
sgschwend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2018, 09:32 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
Belegedhel's Avatar
 
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,314
You should be a ble to get a good enough grade of builder's plywood at your local big box store to do the job. Marine plywood is overkill, and "better" in ways that aren't important to you as a subfloor. The things to look for is first of all, to buy plywood and not some kind of OSB/chip board. Second, you want something with a smooth surface. If you have a bunch of voids and defects, you are just going to have to spend time and money to patch and smooth it so that the defects don't show up in your flooring. Measure the thickness of what you have, and you will know what to buy.

Epoxy sealants are good, but you can achieve what you need to by using polyurethane. Put three coats of poly around the perimeter of the floor, top and bottom, and especieally on the end-grain. I actually painted the entire sheet, top and bottom, when I did mine. I am confident that it will last another 40 years, by which time, I will not care anymore.

When you do the floor, you will have to remove the belly pan, and you might as well remove the tanks, do the necessary frame repairs, and so on. Pull the tanks out in the light of day and have a good look at them to evaluate for cracks. Fill them up with water and let them sit overnight to see if they are leaking. If they are in good shape, then reinstall them. Keep your fresh water tank where it is, and install your new grey water tanks in the bays immediately behind the fresh water tank.

Good luck!
Belegedhel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2018, 07:59 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,289
Images: 1
Hello from Colorado and welcome to the vintage Airstream hobby. You are embarking on a BIG project. The result should be a very nice vintage Airstream indeed.

There are lots of questions of course. I have found these Forums to be of immense help during my projects. I think you will too.

I thing the guys answered most of your initial questions. I use 3/4" plywood sanded on both sides. I use polyurethane as a good sealant. I have made patches to the subfloor when that was all that was necessary. I have never done a shell off "full monte". Maybe some day I will have to.

I have a 75 Overlander 27' that I bought last fall. I've been working on it most afternoons this winter. I think your trailer and mine are built in a similar way. I find my trailer better built that I figured it would be. The aluminum extrusions are cool. The tank mounting pans (now all rust) were well done. And the interior design was also pretty well done. Airstreams are nice travel trailers.

The long trailers of the seventies are prone to frame problems and rear end subfloor rot that results in "rear end separation". Do the bumper bounce test and see if there is any relative motion between the body and the frame. If so, you will need to but that repair on your list.

The waste water tanks in our trailers were rather inadequate in my view. My black tank was broken, my gray tank way too small and also broken. I recommend you remove the tanks and assess their condition. Better tanks are about $250 each and about $200 shipping. Maybe cross border is more.

If you like, you can check out my renovation thread linked below for photos and descriptions of the work I've done to my trailer. I'm sure you have already read several and they are usually about the same. I will help answer questions where I can.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1709 Colorado Springs Awnings (Small).JPG
Views:	51
Size:	165.6 KB
ID:	307739   Click image for larger version

Name:	1709 As found gaucho 2.jpg
Views:	36
Size:	268.6 KB
ID:	307740  

__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2018, 09:27 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
TheGreatleys's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,042
I used exterior grade BC plywood from the big box store. Encased each piece in West System epoxy. Took 2-1/2 gallons to do two good coats for my 27' Overlander. Very happy with the results.

I suggest you keep your fresh and gray tanks where they are if possible. The fresh tank should be under the floor just forward of the axles, which is a fantastic spot for it from a stability perspective when full. If it needs replacing, a correct replacement can be had from Vintage Trailer Supply.

How are you planning on using your trailer? Parks? Short travel excursions? Full timing? Lots of long term boondocking? Your camping style will dictate some of your plumbing system choices.

We full time and long-term boondock a lot. I added two 16 gal gray tanks in addition to the factory gray tank for extra storage. We use a composting toilet so we're not limited by a black tank. Very happy with those decisions for our lifestyle, but you may have different needs.
TheGreatleys is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Advice Appreciated.... seeleylaker General Motorhome Topics 1 11-13-2011 04:49 PM
Move from Class C To Airstream, Advice appreciated Gelrog Airstream Lifestyle 6 07-03-2010 03:51 PM
advice appreciated 1969 Overlander digitalmaine Airstreams on eBay 1 05-19-2009 06:34 PM
Advice Appreciated Terrapin Member Introductions 2 08-03-2007 10:17 AM
Any advice appreciated re: which Airstream to buy nomonkey Airstream Trailer Forums 26 04-13-2007 06:51 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.