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Old 07-23-2012, 11:52 AM   #15
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Any word on how Rich is coping with his wiring problems?
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:53 AM   #16
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WOW, lucky for Rich there wasn't more damage or worse...

I would start either with a schematic and try to trace out where the wires all go, or try to look for similar colored wires. Most seem to be color coded, so that might help. In a pinch if he can only get 2 or 3 different colored wires, I would get some wire and 'suitcase' style connectors for "EMERGENCY" repairs only. I would also label the wires and make good notes with pictures. I would do one wire at a time, and test the expected outcome.

If he can't get to an Airstream dealer/repair shop these repairs should allow him to get closer to his destination.

I'm not getting involved in the tire debate.

Rich, I wish you the best and hope the repairs can be completed quickly so that you can get back on the road.
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:29 PM   #17
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Rich got to his campsite yesterday but never got lights working. The wheel well is also broken and there were tire shavings inside the trailer. I would be concerned about electrical issues in the brakes possibly and not having any 12 v service inside.
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:53 PM   #18
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I don't think anybody is bashing anything or anybody. A better understanding root cause helps us all prevent future potential occurrences.
I, too, feel for Rich.
I don't have schematics for his unit...and I have found the schematics I have been able to find for my unit have been inaccurate, at best. The only thing I could offer Rich is to try and splice like colored and striped wires together with temporary patch splices....but I think he is communicating that the harness is in such a mess that he can't do that.

The only other thing I could offer is to get a long jumper to use as a test lead, get an ohmmeter and test each light socket to the ends of the wires to the rear of the snarl. Then test for running/brake/etc light voltage on the front end of the snarl and jump accordingly.

No quick answer to this manual rebuild, unfortunately.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:42 PM   #19
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Rich, you and I have the same trailer and I live in fear of what you are going through. I had a blow out on my old pop up due totally to my underinflating the tires. It destroyed the wheel well in the process. I was able to replace it myself but it was quite a mess. You can't believe how much dirt and dust gets into the cabin from a ripped wheel well.

I hope you get this all figured out in short order. Keep us posted.
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:58 PM   #20
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Just talked to Rich.

As of right now here is what he knows.

No lights in the trailer work other than the single one above the stove.
Stove vent works
Water pump works
No radio/dvd player
No fantastic fans

Two fuses were blown, and when new fuses were placed..they blew. There is obviously a hot touching the ground here, but Rich has no schematics. He will be on the road for the next two weeks, and is worried about plugging into AC power since he doesn't want a fire. The umbilical is giving power to the running lights.

I am going to send this to Lewster and AIRSTREAM to try and get Rich SOME kind of help while on the road. He has been a good friend for many years. If anyone can help, please contact me for his direct phone number since his email is shotty at best.

Steve
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:17 PM   #21
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Blown Tire

Hi all, am in Bishop Ca. The tire was probably damaged in Kerrville Tx, came too close to a curb. But did go 1400 miles before it blew coming through Mohave Corning through the mountain when a car next to me held a sign up saving you have a flat. Was going 65 never felt it. When finally stopped, well you see the pictures of what was left. Using Goodyear spare tire under the front. Looks new and working well but if anyone has info on a 6 yr old spare condition still new may want to know. Bigger problem is the electrical harness destroyed, wires were shredded. This is behind the bathroom on my 25' Safari. Behind the wheel well. The impact cut through the plastic pulling the harness into the tire. Must be about 3' of extra cabling behind there. Current electrical conditions noted above and haven't yet tried to connect AC or if I should. Any thoughts on that please. Appears all problems 12 v right now. Will look over above posts.
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:22 PM   #22
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Blown Tire

Hi all, am in Bishop Ca. The tire was probably damaged in Kerrville Tx, came too close to a curb. But did go 1400 miles before it blew coming through Mohave Corning through the mountain when a car next to me held a sign up saving you have a flat. Was going 65 never felt it. When finally stopped, well you see the pictures of what was left. Using Goodyear spare tire under the front. Looks new and working well but if anyone has info on a 6 yr old spare condition still new may want to know. Bigger problem is the electrical harness destroyed, wires were shredded. This is behind the bathroom on my 25' Safari. Behind the wheel well. The impact cut through the plastic pulling the harness into the tire. Must be about 3' of extra cabling behind there. Current electrical conditions noted above and haven't yet tried to connect AC or if I should. Any thoughts on that please. Appears all problems 12 v right now. Will look over above posts.
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:36 PM   #23
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Rich, your converter is in front, under bed right? A/C and 120V should be fine. Kill power to other 120V circuits if you want to play safe Don't replace blown fuses, obviously. Looks like power to rear of trailer is severed, should get a clue to wiring colors for lights by looking at wiring harness that come into trailer with breakers. Should be under bed. Can also pull a rear tail light or two to note wire color.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:25 AM   #24
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I only mentioned the tire because the person may have actually been in a situation to have a claim. We experienced a GYM blowout last year and even though I was in the process of filing a claim with my insurance the local GY dealer asked me if I wanted to file a claim also with Goodyear. We did. And long story short the tire was found to be faulty and GY paid our $7k in damages. I did not have to file on my insurance. It appears this tire was damaged by a curb hit. Our tire was properly inflated, good thread and running at a normal speed when it chose to fail. I wish RichHog luck in getting their repairs done.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:43 PM   #25
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Update to Electrical Situation / Blown Tire

So I did some checking on wiring at the convertor and used my new voltmeter to check for voltage on the plugs. Replaced the blown fuses with new while both plugs weren't connected. They held meaning all wires leading to the black plug were good, no shorts. But what was strange was that some wires had no voltage. On the clear mangled plug I found 3 wires with 12V coming from that. Direction. Note that voltmeter ground black wire plugged into the above 120v outlet. I am not plugged into any 120v service. Used red lead to check each wire. I have carefully documented findings from the convertor's label of colors to the plugs. I thought that by connecting the plugs back together those wires with 12v then connecting to the other plugs wires with 0 volts tha a circuit would come back to life. What happened is the purple wires blew that fuse. The purple wire (single wire) must go to some block that splits it off into 3 wires. Same with the yellow. One wire leaves the Dc convertor and becomes 2 at the plug.
I then took the grey wire from the clear plug (knowing it was hot w 12v) and tried plugging it into the ones in the black plug with 0 volts. The white one sparked but didn't blow fuse. The other ones had no results. The thinking was to place 12. Volts to the other side to make a circuit work. Now I'm clueless. Will post codes in next thread.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:49 PM   #26
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Wire colors etc

Airstream 06 Safari FB
Black plug l to r
Purple. * * * * * *12volts
Purple. * * * * * * *12Volts
Yellow *next to black connector 12Volts
Yellow opposite side. 0 Volts
Purple/white stripe. * * * * * *Bad. No voltage. *0 volts. * * *
White. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Bad no voltage. *0 volts


Clear plug
White. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 0 volts
Dark Blue. * * * * * * * * * * * * 0 Volts
Blue. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 12Volts
Blue. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *12 Volts
Grey. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *12Volts


Fuse block in "06 All fuses were replaced and circuits sending 12v

1. *purple. Blown fuse. * 20A. *Compt Lts-Bedroom *Lts Bath fan
2. Yellow blown fuse. 20A. Locker Lts- Exterior Lt
3. Red. *20A Water Pump. Range Hood Refer Light. *Good All Working
4.brown. *20A. TV Jacks
5. Blue. 20A. Bath Lts. *Ceiling Fan/Lt. * * * * * Bad not working
6. Cherry Red. 20A. *Furnace. No lights on Dometic furnaceac controller display
7. Black 20A. Subwoofer. Bad not working
8. Grey 20A. Radio-Frt Locker Lts. * * * * * *Bad. Not working

A Converter output. Circuits 1-9. VDC Positive Load Circuits--
Higher than 20A
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:31 AM   #27
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rich, i'd try working with the factory on this one. maybe thay can fax or overnight the diagrams you need.

that "extra" 3 feet of wire you noted pinched some wires somewhere. you might be able to patch a 'jumper' to bypass the bad area. a trailer cable with 7 conductors might work. you can buy this by the foot. if all you really need to get by is the fan, disconnect them from the trailer wiring and run a fused jumper.
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:39 AM   #28
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Rich, I was afraid of some dead wires when, If I understood right, that there was about 3' of "extra" length of the hanging wires.

I am afraid that means that the harness has been pulled and some of the wires my have broken strands in them, or broke completely somewhere upstream of the wheel well.

I think I would run temporary wiring under the AS to complete your travels and make sure the insurance company is aware that the harness needs complete replacement due to stretching, when the time comes for permanent repair.

If I didn't understand correctly, I appologize.
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