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Old 04-04-2009, 07:23 PM   #99
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1958 26' Overlander
1991 29' Excella
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Airstream Chick Magent

If I had only know when i was in my 20's
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Old 04-04-2009, 09:13 PM   #100
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1958 22' World Traveler
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I definitely admire your ambition... and what an awesome trailer to show for it!! We have a long way to go with our 22', Vivian, but know it will all be worth it in the end. Looks like this was your answer to prayer, and He definitely had His hand in it all along the way! We can't wait to watch your progress with Eugene!!

Jay & Sheri
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Old 04-04-2009, 10:38 PM   #101
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Wow! Fast work!

David, FYI,

The Pensacola Unit of the WBCCI is having a Vintage Rally April 16-19 at their Airstream Park, Mystic Springs Cove. Herb Spies, who is a member of this unit, is this year's VAC President. He said there will be restoration demos at the rally. Here the link, which has his email to contact him. You may want to check what demos. This is close to you. The dates first listed in the thread are wrong.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f289...9-a-47894.html
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Old 04-05-2009, 07:43 AM   #102
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1958 26' Overlander
1991 29' Excella
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Thanks Rick

I am not going to be able to go to the Pensacola Rally. Have to work that weekend. I sure want to make the next one.
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Old 04-05-2009, 12:11 PM   #103
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Ha! Maybe you two found the fountain of youth! You both look like you're in your 50's... so this is what I have to look forward too? Maybe my '63 will rub off on me like you! I remind myself that I hope my floor isn't as warn and rotted as on my trailer... it's only 4 years older than me!

We hope to be as fit in our 60's....
LOVE that trailer!
Marc
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:06 AM   #104
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1958 26' Overlander
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Looks are deceiving

Spent a day of rest Sunday and was mighty sore sitting in that pew Sunday morning. 63 is 63. Got a lot more done Saturday than I thought I would but now that accomplishment has faded quickly and the task ahead is getting the frame out from under the shell. I have read and reread the frame restoration forum and the excellent post there. I think what I must do now is finish clearing the floor of the tub supports and the black tank and its housing. Remove the inner lower sheathing all the way around. and then remove the floor. My floor is terribly rotted. Not sure how much can be saved for a template. I understand the mounting bolts that go from the "C" channel through the wood and into the frame must be removed. At what point do I remove the Belly pan? To do so I think I must remove the wrap around molding on the front and the back and then the entire line of lower rivets on the outside. Hope by then I can figure out where these "hidden rivets" are. I will then brace the shell. Have been leaning on leaving the rest of the interior sheating on to give support to the shell, but not sure how much weight that will add, vs just gutting the entire interior which I will have do later anyway to reinsulate and rewire. Any help would be appreciated. I teach a Bible Course that ends in early May and doesn't restart until September, with the extra free time I hope to really get on this thing this summer and have a good dryed in shell on a good frame, new single axle, disc brakes, 3 tanks in and a new 5/8 inch ACX floor with west system epoxy on the bottom and around the outer 12 inches topside. I think I will replace all my vents with fantastic fans, and a low profile AC. My guess barring an accident this thing will long outlast me. My wife wants an updated interior so I am not going to try to do a period restoration. One of the things I really like about this trailer is its weight. When it was stuck in that field, and knowing how light the tonque weight was, I thought I might just be able to pick up the tonque and turn the whole trailer around and get it out even with the field wet. Once turned around I would be only around 10 feet from the driveway, and that 10 feet was on elevated ground. Sure enough i was able to do that with another small fellow helping. I think I could have done it alone. Cant imagine another travel trailer that size that I could do that with. It trailered great with that single axle with springs so I am going to keep it light and just change to a torsion axle. As I have read, the extra room will help with the addition of a gray tank also. I priced a dexter 5k axle and it was 650 plus shipping from my local distributer. Thought that was high, reading on this forum. I am going to check out the Axis 4-6k axles when I get smart enough to know what to order. Some people were talking in the 400 dollar range for complete axles.
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:12 AM   #105
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Yes, to remove the bellypan you'll need to remove that wrap-around beltline trim piece that some folks call the "rub-rail." You'll probably want to brace the shell before removing the bellypan, because once you drill out all of the rivets that hold the bellypan to the c-channel and shell, the shell will be loose. You'll find some of those blind rivets, or at least semi-blind rivets, between the bellypan and c-channel. You won't be able to see them from outside, because at the factory, the bellypan was riveted onto the c-channel and frame FIRST (with the frame flipped upside down on a rotisserie, actually) and then the whole assembly was flipped rightside-up, and the shell was riveted onto it from the outside, hiding many of the rivets that hold the bellypan to the channel.

Personally, I think it's easier to remove the bellypan before removing the flooring, because having access to the top and bottom of the floor is helpful. There are many elevator bolts that go from the top of the floor, through the floor and frame cross-members below, and then are held on with a nut. For me, the easiest way to remove these rusty old elevator bolts was to grab the nut from underneath with a pair of vice grips and bend it back and forth a couple of times, and the majority of them just snapped right off. Other people have other methods and some prefer to remove the floor from above, but I found the above method to be the easiest for me.

Your progress looks great, keep it up!

-Marcus
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Old 04-06-2009, 08:49 AM   #106
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David

The ACX is 3/4 in - the old floor is 5/8, but the tile on top was 1/8.

You will see how this all goes together at the restoration rally - as well as cheaper sources for epoxy.. be sure to bring all these questions with you.

Ken J.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:05 AM   #107
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Price - if that price from Dexter includes disk brakes, I'd jump all over it! Retail from their e-shop, those disks are $650.00 PER SIDE!! I have noted that the price of axles (#11's) are going up a bit. I think you might be seeing a lot of #10 axle prices, which are closer to $400 per axle.
Marc
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:11 AM   #108
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Oh man, I want to find cheaper sources for epoxy! Any hints for unforunate souls like me who can't make the 4CU Vintage Restoration Rally this year?

Regarding epoxy on the edges, I did not do this. If I were going to do it over again, I would, and I will tell you why.

I treated the edges with a Minwax wood hardener, the bottom with a couple of coats of water sealer (Thompson's or Olympic, don't actually remember which one), and I treated the top side with a couple coats of polyurethane. I'm good with my top and bottom treatments, but during my renovation I've had an area of open exterior skin where the water heater normally sits, that was left uncovered through a couple of rain storms. Water ran off the side of the trailer and directly onto the floor, and after only a couple of rains, there was already some slight delamination of the ACX plywood. I was able to stabilize this area with a heavy dose of West System epoxy, and it's completely solid now. I have no doubt it will never need treatment again.

I'm not too worried about the other edge areas because ideally, they will never have rain pouring directly on them for a couple of days at a time, and then 95 degree heat immediately following. BUT, when I re-do the front floors of my trailer next winter, I will definitely treat all of the edges with epoxy.

Just in case.


-Marcus
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:16 AM   #109
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I did all my edges with epoxy...

As I understand from a Epoxy expert, there are relatively few manufacturers for epoxy, then everyone - like West - puts their name on them.. So the best source I was told about and have used is called Fiberglass Coatings, Inc in Fla - if you can't find them with google search let me know and I'll search the for the link..

Ken J.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:17 AM   #110
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Disc brakes

Actually that price from Dexter was for drum brakes and if the price for disc is 650 a side, (I had not priced them) I will either use drum brakes or just stick my foot out to slow it down. I have some west system epoxy left over from a previous project so that is why I was going to use that. Will probably just use it for the edges pieces as will not have enough to do the whole bottom side. Will opt for the cheap stuff. (Thanks Ken). I will go for the belly pan before the floor, that sounds much easier and will brace before I cut all those rivets out of the exterior. (thanks Marcus) I appreciate you guys.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:22 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J View Post
I did all my edges with epoxy...

As I understand from a Epoxy expert, there are relatively few manufacturers for epoxy, then everyone - like West - puts their name on them.. So the best source I was told about and have used is called Fiberglass Coatings, Inc in Fla - if you can't find them with google search let me know and I'll search the for the link..

Ken J.
I know, I've read through your thread probably a dozen times. I should have followed your example!


Live and learn I suppose. For the front half renovation, there is no doubt that I will do so.


Thanks for the tip on epoxy, I'll check out Fiberglass Coatings next time I'm shopping. I've got some boat repair work to do as well in the near future, as soon as I'm done with the Airstream renovation, of course...

-Marcus
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:26 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navyeod View Post
I will go for the belly pan before the floor, that sounds much easier and will brace before I cut all those rivets out of the exterior. (thanks Marcus) I appreciate you guys.
You're welcome, but no need to thank me, I'm just passing along the advice and best practices that I've learned from guys like Ken and Uwe, who are as helpful as their trailers are beautiful.


The way I see it, we're all in this together, and you will no doubt be able to answer some of my questions on the near future.
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