Help me get JoyBug on the road!

[Argosy man]

Originally Posted by Iansk

In order:

- I refuse to talk to you like you are a moron.

- you can get gasket material in sheets from VTS or a decent auto parts store though all my marker lights on 3 trailers are mounted straight to the skin and sealed around the top 3/4 with parbond or trempro.

- Pop rivets are fine. Bucking may crack the casing or deform the skin, plus you may need to trouble shoot in the future so make them easy to remove but secure.

- white is typically the ground and black is typically the hot for 12v rv systems.

- install rubber grommets, pass the wires through those and trempro the holes if you want. Though if the second step above was done well, you shouldn't need the trempro. Mine aren't trempro'd, they just pass through grommets.

Ian

Agree with all of above-

I just installed all new LEDs on my trailer. My trailer originally only had one wire coming out of the trailer and used one of the mounting rivets to ground the light to the body. The new LED Lights had two wires coming out the back, so I detached the LED curcuit board; pulled the ground wire back inside the fixture and wrapped it around the pop rivet for the ground. I then glued the circuit board back into the fixture.

As original- I didnt use a grommet because my LED lights had a flat base and it would have set the lights away from the trailer. I then used Sika Sealer all around the tops against the body to keep moisture out.

They work great and are much brighter.

Shawn

[girasoledonn]

thanks for all the feedback guys. About these marker lights - today I went and tried to figure everything out. Can i buy gasket sheets like at home depot and just cut them to fit? Would I apply them to the back of the marker light holders with like.. glue? or is that not necessary - just put them back to back and pop in the rivets. I'm confused how I put a pop rivet in the part of the marker light that is raised a lot higher than the other - I guess Ill need a much longer rivet?

The marker lights have two holes on the outer edges ( see pic ) where I'm guessing I rivet them to the body. The inside has 5 holes - the trailer also has 5 holes - I'm not sure because I didnt take the old lights off - I don't know why there would've been 5 holes to begin with - but there are only two wires- so my thought is - install the marker light holders.. .put pop rivets through the holes that are of no use, and then install the marker lights running the two wires through two of of the holes? Does that make sense?

How does the marker light actually adhere to the marker light holder itself? I couldn't figure that out today.

Last question - do i tape the white "grounding" wire to the interior end cap? How does one ground a wire?

I would like to do these tomorrow so any advice would be appreciated...

[girasoledonn]

Originally Posted by Iansk

In order:

- I refuse to talk to you like you are a moron.

- you can get gasket material in sheets from VTS or a decent auto parts store though all my marker lights on 3 trailers are mounted straight to the skin and sealed around the top 3/4 with parbond or trempro.

- Pop rivets are fine. Bucking may crack the casing or deform the skin, plus you may need to trouble shoot in the future so make them easy to remove but secure.

- white is typically the ground and black is typically the hot for 12v rv systems.

- install rubber grommets, pass the wires through those and trempro the holes if you want. Though if the second step above was done well, you shouldn't need the trempro. Mine aren't trempro'd, they just pass through grommets.

Ian

hey ok so I don't need to do gaskets? Just tempro would work? I can use parbond yes? Because the tempro is grey and will clash with the paint job -the parbond is clear...

I posted above a picture of the light fixture and there are a lot of holes.. I'm guessing I just fill all the holes with pop rivets except the two for the wires?

Do I need to use a grounding board inside the end cap for the marker lights that the wires go to? Or do I just mount the wire against the body? And if so how?

I don't actually know what a grommet is - but I'm guessing if i go to home depot they'll steer me in the right direction. LOL. They come in different sizes no doubt.. ?

[Belbein]

One grommet, coming right up:

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...it&FORM=VRMHRS

[girasoledonn]

Originally Posted by Argosy man

Nobody has mentioned here yet- Your trailer is amazing! The rare tandom axle 22ft rear door Argosy is what us Argosy lovers fantasize about finding. In my opinion; you own the Holy Grail of Argosies

I know currently it is gutted- are you going back to original layout on the interior? or Custom?

Joining your thread- Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Shawn

hahah somehow I missed this message! Dude, I KNOW!!! Don't think i don't know! I also am an argosy lover and always swooned over the rare rear door tandem axel 22 footer! I mean, she's so cute and small but has TWO axles and the rear door is so rad. No I'm doing a totally custom interior and total new layout to incorporate a music studio, full time bed, galley and dinette that converts to a bed and side bathroom

[Iansk]

Originally Posted by girasoledonn

hey ok so I don't need to do gaskets? Just tempro would work? I can use parbond yes? Because the tempro is grey and will clash with the paint job -the parbond is clear...

I posted above a picture of the light fixture and there are a lot of holes.. I'm guessing I just fill all the holes with pop rivets except the two for the wires?

Do I need to use a grounding board inside the end cap for the marker lights that the wires go to? Or do I just mount the wire against the body? And if so how?

I don't actually know what a grommet is - but I'm guessing if i go to home depot they'll steer me in the right direction. LOL. They come in different sizes no doubt.. ?

Yes you can use parbond.

The excess holes are for either different wire locations or weep holes in case water gets in the fixture. Minimize the intrusions to two. Don’t seal any holes that are below skin penetrations, you want a way for water to get out. Also make sure you install them the right way up, there should be a weep hole on the outer edge of the housing, that faces down.

My markers are held on with ss screws (and trempro) and the white wire is grounded to one of those. The ground wire just needs to make solid contact with the skin.

[girasoledonn]

Well installing marker lights has been another learning experience that tested my patience ultimately to the max. First, I installed all the lights with rivets (not screws) because the holes have been drilled out so many times they were all different sizes, and also I had no one inside to attach a nut for me, so I went with rivets. The rivets I then came to find mushroomed inside the trailers body not through the end cap. I also discovered that the end caps are fiberglass, not steel as everyone had told me they'd be, and was advised to redo them all using a washer under the rivet on the back side so it would mushroom through the trailer and hold against the washer. I experimented with a zillion different rivets, trips to the store, and of course had to use superglue and/or aluminum tape to get the washer to hold inside the trailer while riveting from the outside without a 2nd pair of hands. But, I got it done - and then on the last rivet - my rivet gun broke. This was like in total, 11 hours trying to do these marker lights - having to redo them like 3x. On my birthday. Sooooo yea. Off to get a new rivet gun.

I havent done the ones that go directly to the body yet. I didnt ground them to the chassis because the chassis is fiberglass. So I'm thinking I will just ground the lights to a grounding board held to the end cap interior.

I didnt discover a tiny hole on the bottom of the holders, but there is an extra hole on the right bottom corner of each that doesn't penetrate the body that I'm assuming is a weep hole. I left it open obviously.

For installing the marker lights that go directly on the body and not in a holder - I am going to just apply them, and after testing them, I'll apply sealant around them.. but i am concerned if the lights fail that Ill ruin my new paint job taking the sealant off? Should I go with gaskets instead?

Ok thanks

[girasoledonn]

Well I got my marker lights installed before anyone could respond to my message HAHA. Oh well! It was exciting to test them and see them light up! Woohoo!

Ok next question - installing my argosy name plate? The hole in the name plate is 1/8 inch but the holes in the body are a mess. Someone drilled them out and they look like - ya know, two holes next to each other making one big hole. I don't want to drill the name plate holes any bigger - and the name plate hole is 1/8 inch. Ok... so... should I use screws or rivets? And regardless, how do I fix the katywampus holes? Because if i put a screw in, there will be a hole above the screw where it was drilled out. Can i use a large washer behind the screw (remember my endcaps are fiberglass) and the large washer will secure it, then fill the rest of the hole with tempro? HELP! ( CLICK TO ZOOM )

[Iansk]

Since your end caps are fiberglass, you could back the holes with strips of fiberglass. Looking at it though, if it were me, I’d dry fit the name plate until it’s straight and level, put some registration marks on the bottom and sides with painters tape and amply trempro the name back on using stainless bolts, washers, locknuts and loctite then trempro the inside around the nuts and stuff.

Ian

[girasoledonn]

Originally Posted by Iansk

Since your end caps are fiberglass, you could back the holes with strips of fiberglass. Looking at it though, if it were me, I’d dry fit the name plate until it’s straight and level, put some registration marks on the bottom and sides with painters tape and amply trempro the name back on using stainless bolts, washers, locknuts and loctite then trempro the inside around the nuts and stuff.

Ian

Ok...so... walk me through this - I need 1/8 inch screws... do i need counter sunk screws? What are registration marks? Are you saying just mark where the name plate goes, then remove it and put tempro everywhere? I mean, I guess I can do that, if the name plate ever has to come off its going to destroy the brand new paint job seeing how its not aluminum. Ok... so don't use screws... use bolts? When I put the bolt through the tiny hole, the hole that was drilled just above it or to the side of it - that just stays? If i use the tools youre describing, it wont move out of place over years of being on the road?

[Iansk]

It would help if you could post a picture of the name badge. The airstream letters have posts on the back and uses push nuts with trempro smothered on the nuts/posts inside the trailer.

Registration marks in this case would be just some painters tape to mark the side(s) and bottom so when you put it on for real with trempro you don't have to slide it around.

I'm unclear as to why the nameplate would need to come off in the future? I would make this a one and done affair. Trempro, Stainless bolts, locking nuts, permanent Loctite and more trempro. I would only use enough trempro on the back of the nameplate to minimize squeeze out.

I never said use screws though, please re-read my previous response as I feel like I laid it out fairly clearly. If I didn't or if something is unclear please let me know.

Ian

[Argosy man]

Really odd that your end caps are fiberglass- but Argosy was where Airstream tested things first, so OK

I would agree to use Tempro or Sika sealant on the back side to the name tag- so however you fasten it will not become a leak point -and will help hold it in place.

Another suggestion besides the one above would be to seal up the old holes and just rivet the name tag 1/4” higher or lower. The name tag will cover the old holes.

Shawn

[girasoledonn]

HEY GUYS - I know its been like 6 months. But I am back. Got a lot of stuff done on Joybug since we last talked, but then took 3 months off to work on my career a bit.

Anyway, its cold here in NJ but I'm still kicking away. We're gonna have 60 degree weather this weekend so I wanna get a ton done. I have the girl wired for brakes, marker lights, tail lights, back up lights etc. Name plate, marker lights, rub rail, water inlet, power inlet, all of it is back on. She's painted bright yellow and looking so pretty! From the oustside looking in you would think she's done!@ But she's just a shell inside. STILL. Ugh.

Anyway, I'm in the process of sealing leaks.. and realized all my windows leak. I had a question.

I called Vintage Trailer Gaskets upon advice from an AA member on FB, and the guy there who is super nice told me how to reseal my windows. He told me everything I needed to buy, which I did buy, and supplies arrive tomorrow. But he gave me pretty lengthy instructions on how to do these windows, and I'm wondering if it's overkill.

Basically he told me to remove the window, remove the sash, use glazing on the window, and THEN the D gasket, and then silicone aluminum sealant. He explained that getting the sash to come off was not going to be easy in the slightest. And that I'd have to use a wire brush on a close quarter drill, have a 50 inch ratchet clamp handy, etc etc.

My original plan was just to take off the weather stripping, clean it, and add new weather stripping. I don't THINK that the pane of glass has holes that require the glazing? But honestly I am not 1000% sure - I just know the windows are leaking.

I've got hundreds of hours sunk into the project, and tens of thousands of dollars, so I'm all bout doing it right. But I also don't want to lose 2 weeks trying to reseal the windows.

Just wondering how most of you do this - the guy said i should be ok in 50+ low 60 degree weather for curing. So i want to tackle this as fast as I can -though he says that I'll never get it done in one weekend and it'll probably take me a whole weekend to learn how to do just one window.

Ugh. I need a martini.

[Foiled Again]

Oooh, pretty!

[Rocinante]

Wonderful cheerful yellow. When you get leaks cured and the inside livable, it's going to be great!

[girasoledonn]

thanks guys. yea she is super pretty. but dear Lord the inside is moving slow. Any advise on those windows though hahah?

[Belegedhel]

I'm not sure what you mean by the window "sash," but I assume you mean the aluminum frame that surrounds the glass (?) Anyway, there is little doubt that the rubber seal (glazing) between the aluminum frame and the glass is shot, and a perfectionist would probably remove the frame, clean things up, reglaze and reassemble. A lot of folks (perfectionists) also remove the frame that is riveted to the shell, reseal and reinstall.

A more moderate approach is to take an Xacto knife and trim the old dry cracked rubber seal between the glass and the window frame, and then to put a bead of vulkem or your sealant of choice in there and call it good. Then of course, you will need to remove the old foam weather stipping between the metal window frame, and the frame riveted to the skin and replace. If you just do this much, you will have a very long weekend of it.

good luck!

[Atomic_13]

Anj - I agree... the reglazing can wait and be addressed with a thin bead of Trempro 635 at the window's edge. I'm nearing the end of a complete overhaul of a '68 Tradewind. During the process, I've passed on non-essential tasks like this that can be done later (if needed at all). Definitely focus your limited time on the window D gaskets. Like others before me, I've outlined in detail (linked below), my renovation to help others and also help me remember what I did when I tackle my '68 Overlander (which is on deck). What's funny is I've been considering chopping it down to emulate the layout of your trailer (22', tandem axle, rear door). Brian

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f116...on-134984.html

[Hittenstiehl]

VTS and Steve know trailers and getting leaks identified and getting it sealed up is super important.

You want to identify where the leaks are!!

Problem is a window leak could be sending water between the outer skins and inner skins. Damaging flooring you can't even see. And water takes the path of least resistance. Water coming in off the top corner of a drip cap may work it's way in by the front door as it runs down a rib.

Maybe sealing the obvious with intent to do a full window job in the future will suffice.

Very nice color.

[girasoledonn]

Just wanted to share that Joybug and I are still plugging along - the slow turtle wins the race!

- Windows all repaired, new gaskets, also on the door
- 12V and 110V all wired up
- tail lights, brakes, makers lights wired up
- caulked and sealed all leaks
- taped all seams and windows
- reflectix installed
- fabricated segmented aluminum endcaps (yep i did this myself!)
- insulating with sheeps wool
- ordered aluminum for fabrication of new interior skins
- installed porch light (and chromed)
- took apart and repaired KT lock (chromed, new parts, put back together)

I AM DOINGGGGG IT.

Joybug shall live!