Help! I'm stumped.

[dznf0g]

So, I was out putzin' around in the AS and I noticed the pocket door between the galley and the bath was sagging in the open (retracted) position. Took it off it's track and found the track end screw missing, the next on toward the center backed out a lot, and the next one backed out some.

How to get back there to glue, tighten and replace. Fridge and cabinet work on the right of me and bath counter and overhead locker to the left of me.

How can I get back there? Is there a tool I haven't seen/bought yet?

All suggestions, short of a complete bath removal welcome and needed.

[reinergirl]

This isn't easily fixed, In houses you cut a hole in the drywall to get at those screws! I'm assuming that's not an option unless you've got access in an invisible area like a medicine cabinet or such.

Here's a link to someone who got very creative with building a removal tool, doesn't look too hard but we all know how these things go!

http://www.bitware.com/5er/mod_pocket.htm

If you're not handy they do make tools but they are expensive , over $100 . Here's one of them.
Our Products

[dznf0g]

Thanks Shelly! I can't seem to get details on the tool from pocketdoorrepair.com. Do you know if it is similar to the homemade version?

HEY, $100 is CHEAP compared to all the interior removal I'd have to do.

BTW, Now I know where that mystery screw came from that DW found on the bath floor while we were on vacation.

[DaveFL]

Fridge was made to come out for replacement or repair, wall between is plywood, cut a hole using harbour freight $20 oscillating power tool, cut a triangular opening at a 45 degree angle for the three sides, when you are finished glue on all the edges and the plug you cut out can be used to fill the hole, if you think you will have the same problem again use short screws in the corners or leave the plug out. You can make the hole big enough to fit your hand and a screwdriver.

[reinergirl]

There is a picture near the buy it now option, it looks to be very similar to the DIY version, I suspect the company is being cagey because the item is easy to reproduce.

Do you have a dremel? I wonder if the flex cable and a right hand attachment wouldn't do the same thing? You'd have to attach it to a piece of 1 x2 or something to give you leverage.

You don't own a monkey with a really small hand by chance?

The bad news is the holes the screws went into may be stripped and won't hold the screws. Tapping new screws in a different spot is going to be way more difficult,.......at the very least I'd dip the screws in a premium wood glue when installing and hope for the best.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by DaveFL

Fridge was made to come out for replacement or repair, wall between is plywood, cut a hole using harbour freight $20 oscillating power tool, cut a triangular opening at a 45 degree angle for the three sides, when you are finished glue on all the edges and the plug you cut out can be used to fill the hole, if you think you will have the same problem again use short screws in the corners or leave the plug out. You can make the hole big enough to fit your hand and a screwdriver.

Yeah, that would work....but, ironically, I just had the fridge out today to rearrange my fridge fan system. I have used the holes and plugs before, but I think I'd honestly pay the $110 for the tool at this point. Also, I'd have to remove the bubble wrap insulation from the fridge compartment walls.

Plus, I'd have to make two holes to get both screws. Also, since first post, I have discovered issues with the other pocket door as well. Fiberglass shower on one side and no hidden areas in the bedroom to cut access holes.

I think it's "bite the bullet" time.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by reinergirl

There is a picture near the buy it now option, it looks to be very similar to the DIY version, I suspect the company is being cagey because the item is easy to reproduce.

Do you have a dremel? I wonder if the flex cable and a right hand attachment wouldn't do the same thing? You'd have to attach it to a piece of 1 x2 or something to give you leverage.

You don't own a monkey with a really small hand by chance?

The bad news is the holes the screws went into may be stripped and won't hold the screws. Tapping new screws in a different spot is going to be way more difficult,.......at the very least I'd dip the screws in a premium wood glue when installing and hope for the best.

I'm hoping they're not stripped out. It appears the others are backing out....so maybe. I don't have a monkey, but I will be using Gorilla glue for the re-install.

I thought about some kind of long cable for a drill or dremel, but I always seem to not get the torque I need before the cable starts to double over itself.

[dznf0g]

I think I am also going to fashion some ramps on the floor for the door bottom to take the load off the end of the tracks in order to prevent this from reoccurring.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I think I am also going to fashion some ramps on the floor for the door bottom to take the load off the end of the tracks in order to prevent this from reoccurring.

Rich, I think this is a wise move as I have had to do the same thing with the hanging slot for our rear bedroom/hallway door.

I was fortunate that the door was not inside a wall like yours, but let me tell you I first just re-tightened the screw. Then when it came loose again, I put two larger diameter screws in the area that comes loose. Then retightened the next time. The last time I addressed the issue, I put red Locktite on the screws, and fashioned a carpet covered ramp that actually puts all the load of the weight of the door onto the floor.

On our last 2K mile trip, it finally stayed put. Good luck.

[Ag&Au]

The door in a corresponding position in our 2010 Classic 31 is a light weight accordion door. I am wondering if that is a change due to the later year model, or a difference between 30 and 31.

Ken

[dznf0g]

Steve, could you send pics and maybe an explanation of your construction? Did you need to round off the lower back corner of the door for smooth operation on the ramp?

I found a 90* Milwaukee screw/nut driver arbor and am working it this morning. It is on the end of two 10" nut driver tip extensions with magnetic sockets. Trying with hex head screws, but there is not a lot of clearance between the roller trolleys and the screw heads. We'll see. I can't get enough upward force with the phillips heads. Maybe square heads????? just thought of that.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

The door in a corresponding position in our 2010 Classic 31 is a light weight accordion door. I am wondering if that is a change due to the later year model, or a difference between 30 and 31.

Ken

Yes, Ken, our door in that position is an accordion door as well, and I think it's because of the floor plan.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by SteveH

Yes, Ken, our door in that position is an accordion door as well, and I think it's because of the floor plan.

Since Rich's is a 2007, I was curious whether the door is an accordion or sliding door in the newer classic 30s. (2010 for instance). However I found a floor plan for a 2013 30 and it appears to still be a pocket door.

So, "Never Mind"

Ken

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Steve, could you send pics and maybe an explanation of your construction? Did you need to round off the lower back corner of the door for smooth operation on the ramp?

I found a 90* Milwaukee screw/nut driver arbor and am working it this morning. It is on the end of two 10" nut driver tip extensions with magnetic sockets. Trying with hex head screws, but there is not a lot of clearance between the roller trolleys and the screw heads. We'll see. I can't get enough upward force with the phillips heads. Maybe square heads????? just thought of that.

Rich, I'm attaching a picture of what I made, but of course everything like this will be custom to the trailer, and keep in mind my objective was to prevent the damn thing from falling only as we have never used this door other than for a passageway restriction. I honestly wish it was not there, and would remove it if it weren't for the holes that would leave and for resale purposes.

[ventport]

If you cut a hole into the refrigerator area, be sure to plug it air tight. If it is not air tight, it could leak carbon monoxide from the fridge burner into the living area of the trailer.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by ventport

If you cut a hole into the refrigerator area, be sure to plug it air tight. If it is not air tight, it could leak carbon monoxide from the fridge burner into the living area of the trailer.

Not cutting. I got both tracks back in place. Post pics with tool used later.....

[dznf0g]

Here are the tools I wound up using. Got lucky, all screws just backed out...not stripped. Used Gorilla Glue on all replaced fasteners.

[reinergirl]

Nice work!