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Old 02-11-2014, 08:36 PM   #1
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Heater fan stuck "on" after storage

1989 32ft Squarestream. I came back to my trailer after 5 months' storage, but after connecting to shore power, the heater fan will not turn off, either on 120 or on 12v battery power. Thermostat on the wall has no effect.

I suspect a stuck relay. Any hints, please?

Thank you.

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Old 02-12-2014, 07:44 AM   #2
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1989 32ft Squarestream. I came back to my trailer after 5 months' storage, but after connecting to shore power, the heater fan will not turn off, either on 120 or on 12v battery power. Thermostat on the wall has no effect.

I suspect a stuck relay. Any hints, please?

Thank you.

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Reboot, just like you do with a computer. Shut off the whole trailer, and then turn on the power again. When you power up again, make sure the heater is turned off first. Then turn the heater on again and see if the problem recurs.

If that doesn't solve the problem, check the propane level; and the furnace ignition (spark or pilot, whichever you've got). The fan comes on first as part of the pre-ignition sequence, and if the furnace doesn't light up, it will stay in the pre-ignition sequence rather than shutting off.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:39 AM   #3
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The fan comes on after a short time out. If it is on I would suspect the control board relay has fused the contacts. While there is power to the board and the fan is running. If you can get to the board I would tap it to see if you can drop the relay. If this solves the problem I would get a new board because it will happen again.
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Old 02-13-2014, 01:13 AM   #4
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Thanks for the quick and useful help.

I had not turned on the gas, and apparently the fan was running until the controls sensed ignition.

I found a rocker switch bundled with the wiring for the furnace controls. I flipped the rocker switch, and the fan stopped. I haven't done any diagnostics yet. That rocker switch is perhaps identified on the schematic as "Sail Switch." One more nautical term to learn for this Land Yacht.

I did not need the gas turned on right away because I got a cheapie, 1500 watt, ceramic heater to relieve the chill.

I will reboot the electrical system (with the furnace off). Then I will switch the Atwood furnace on at the thermostat and keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks again!

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Old 02-13-2014, 08:51 AM   #5
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The "sail switch" should be internal to the furnace. It's job is to make sure there is airflow from the fan before any gas is allowed to the burner. Make sure no one has bypassed this safety function.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:16 AM   #6
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With the gas turned off the control board will attempt to start. It will cycle the fan about 20 seconds, attempt to light, If ignition fails the fan will continue to run about a minute and shut down after that time out.

Now after you turn the gas on the heater may not light because the gas line may not have gas at the heater. If this happens crack the gas line at the heater until you smell gas. Tighten the line and attempt to start the heater again.

Not sure what switch you found on the control board but it was not the sail switch. That switch is in the fan housing and you can't get to it. That switch may just be a service switch.
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:12 AM   #7
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Two taps on the circuit board stopped the fan. That was after I had flipped the rocker switch back to "on."

I will check out the furnace 's operation next week when I can do a safety check on the propane system. I have never run the furnace, but the other propane appliances have operated very well.

Thank you all (Y'all!)

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Old 02-14-2014, 06:18 AM   #8
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Two taps on the circuit board stopped the fan.
"Percussive maintenance" strikes again! So to speak…
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:23 AM   #9
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If the other propane items work you have to prove propane at the heater. If air has gotten into the line the heater will never purge the line. You have to crack the fitting at the heater till you smell propane.

Now many will chime in that that is illegal, fating, and immoral but your choice is to do it or take it to a shop and have them do it. With propane at the heater it will never fire.
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Old 03-21-2014, 01:47 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
Reboot, just like you do with a computer. Shut off the whole trailer, and then turn on the power again. When you power up again, make sure the heater is turned off first. Then turn the heater on again and see if the problem recurs.

If that doesn't solve the problem, check the propane level; and the furnace ignition (spark or pilot, whichever you've got). The fan comes on first as part of the pre-ignition sequence, and if the furnace doesn't light up, it will stay in the pre-ignition sequence rather than shutting off.

Hello pro,
Could you suggest a type of line to use for splicing a propane line into my refrig propane to connect a catl heater to?
I'm trying to install the heater in the side of the trailer near the frig. Do I use copper, braided or what for adding propane?
Thx
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Old 03-21-2014, 04:34 AM   #11
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Hello pro,
Could you suggest a type of line to use for splicing a propane line into my refrig propane to connect a catl heater to?
I'm trying to install the heater in the side of the trailer near the frig. Do I use copper, braided or what for adding propane?
Thx
All joints in your propane system have to be made outside the living area (under the trailer). You can connect the appliance's own inlet fitting to the line inside the trailer, but you can't splice your propane plumbing inside the trailer. That's according to NFPA 1192, but I can't quote chapter and verse without looking it up at the office.

That said, copper works as well as anything.
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:49 AM   #12
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Hello pro,
Could you suggest a type of line to use for splicing a propane line into my refrig propane to connect a catl heater to?
I'm trying to install the heater in the side of the trailer near the frig. Do I use copper, braided or what for adding propane?
Thx
"Flared" copper and as noted above outside the trailer
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:13 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
All joints in your propane system have to be made outside the living area (under the trailer). You can connect the appliance's own inlet fitting to the line inside the trailer, but you can't splice your propane plumbing inside the trailer. That's according to NFPA 1192, but I can't quote chapter and verse without looking it up at the office.

That said, copper works as well as anything.
Hi Protagonist,

Different trailer than my original post, now installing a water heater.

Is a shutoff valve inside the trailer permitted by the code, please? I have installed a shutoff where the propane line connects to the water heater's inlet line, but the job is not completed and I haven't hooked up the propane yet.

Thanks.

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Old 03-31-2014, 08:16 AM   #14
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Is a shutoff valve inside the trailer permitted by the code, please? I have installed a shutoff where the propane line connects to the water heater's inlet line, but the job is not completed and I haven't hooked up the propane yet.
A shutoff valve at that point is kind of overkill, but isn't against code as far as I know.
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