Going on a road trip and need help. - Page 2

**azflycaster** · 11-23-2007, 07:24 PM

Here are a few pictures:

59FC

urbanfood · 11-23-2007, 08:59 PM

hi gilbert,

it sounds like you're hunkering down for some good ol' fun. i'm in the slow slow slow super slow process of restoring my '56 flying cloud, here's the link; boy oh boy! my new '56 flying cloud!

grab a cup of joe and peruse these links. you'll get a ton of info;

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ons-35399.html

2bkidfree · 11-25-2007, 09:10 PM

Here are some interior shots (for Rob). You'll notice the quality floor tiles used on the refridgerator and the lovely wallpaper used everywhere. I am also including a picture of the roof. The two vent covers above the door don't look original, but they look okay.

You will also notice the bathroom which probably wasn't used in a long time.

Next step. Check the running gear and brakes. Get new (non split rim) tires and wheels.

BTW. Rob, I was listening to some old Podcasts and maybe Tim should have taken your advice about bringing every tool to pick up his trailer. I did and I think it was good luck. I also think that letting the bearings worm up little by little did a lot to keep them going.

Gilbert

safari57 · 11-26-2007, 11:09 AM

Gilbert

Very creative use of floor tiles. Good thing they didn't get sill with them on walls, ceiling, and even heaven forbid - the floor. Overall you got yourselves a really neat trailer. It looks like it needs a very good cleaning, some new flooring, blinds or curtains, and personal customizations and you are set. I'm sure you are aware that you need to do a very good check on the quality of the wiring and propane line work that's been done in the past. You don't want surprises/unhappy occurences.

It will be fun to watch your progress.

Barry

robandzoe · 11-29-2007, 10:04 PM

Your woodwork looks good. I agree, those roof top vents don't look original, but if they are functional, and don't leak, then leave that for later... Nice blue rug... yup - the good old wet bath.... tight squeeze. Nice looking trailer. Next time I'm out in San Diego, I'm coming on over on my way to Fry's in San Marcos.

Rob

Over59 · 11-30-2007, 06:08 AM

Looks good. I would suggest that you change the whole axle out. For a few hundred dollars you will have piece of mind. I changed both of mine on my 59. There is an issue of sudden axle failure due to cracks. A trailer place should be able to just pop a new full setup axel in for you. Unless you don't plan on traveling with it.

BrianP · 11-30-2007, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeppelinium

I'd be more worried about the brakes than the bearings. Not that they work, but that the mechanism doesn't fall apart in a way that jams the drum. I've picked up two trailers that have sat for awhile, 8 years and 25 years. They were both 70's models, so they were a little less risk than a '59. On the other hand, your '59 has been moving lately.

I repacked the bearings on the 25-year immobile Sovereign--took about 3 hours. Avoiding the black widows was a bigger problem than anything mechanical. Then I put on 4 new wheels and tires for the drive home (1,200 miles).

I didn't do anything to the 8-year immobile Safari except put on new wheels and tires. I checked the axle temperatures a couple of times on the 200 mile drive home. No problems.

The brakes failed on an Overlander that had been reasonable well cared for. I was backing up (after several thousand miles of ownership) and noticed in the rear view mirror that one wheel was locked. It rolled fine going forward. Turned out one of the electric brake lever arms had come off its post. On closer inspection, three of the four brakes were in bad shape. It only cost $50 per drum to replace the brake plate. This had two benefits--fixed the problems and upgraded the brakes to the currently available magnet designs. Finding the old magnets is not really possible these days.

You can replace the brake plates in a few hours, say half a day. The biggest problem I had was in getting the pressed-in bolts out of the old plates so I could use them on the new ones. If you can, buy new bolts--it will save you an hour a plate.

Zep

I ran into that same problem when we picked up our '61 Ambassador. I had brought some mechanics wire with me and I simply wired the brakes so they wouldn't move from the "off" position.

2bkidfree · 11-30-2007, 04:27 PM

You are all correct and I need a whole new axle and brakes. It has the original Stromberg hydraulic brakes with 10 leaf pack and from the looks of it they haven't been used in 30 years. I'll post a picture this weekend.

My first big decision is how much of my budget do I want to use on this part. I had budgeted $900 for the axle and brakes, but people have been saying that I should go with hydraulic disk. If I put an extra $1,500 in the brakes I have to take it from somewhere else. That money tree out back just isn't what it used to be. I anticipate that when I get AS visitors coming over they'll start pointing out all kinds of things that I need to fix.

I'm thinking that I should be fine with 12 x 2 electric drums because the trailer weighs 2900 lbs and I'm towing it with my suburban. (I've towed heavier stuff). If I find that for some reason I need more fade resistance and stopping power I can change the rotors and pads on the sub the next time their due. My Tacoma has Slotted Frozen Rotors with Hawk pads and that made a huge difference on it.

I'll know more in the next week because a buddy of mine is bringing over his portable scales and I'll have a better idea of what I'm going to be pulling. Little does he know he's also going to end up helping me install the new axle.

wkerfoot · 11-30-2007, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2bkidfree

You are all correct and I need a whole new axle and brakes. It has the original Stromberg hydraulic brakes with 10 leaf pack and from the looks of it they haven't been used in 30 years. I'll post a picture this weekend.

My first big decision is how much of my budget do I want to use on this part. I had budgeted $900 for the axle and brakes, but people have been saying that I should go with hydraulic disk. If I put an extra $1,500 in the brakes I have to take it from somewhere else. That money tree out back just isn't what it used to be. I anticipate that when I get AS visitors coming over they'll start pointing out all kinds of things that I need to fix.

I'm thinking that I should be fine with 12 x 2 electric drums because the trailer weighs 2900 lbs and I'm towing it with my suburban. (I've towed heavier stuff). If I find that for some reason I need more fade resistance and stopping power I can change the rotors and pads on the sub the next time their due. My Tacoma has Slotted Frozen Rotors with Hawk pads and that made a huge difference on it.

I'll know more in the next week because a buddy of mine is bringing over his portable scales and I'll have a better idea of what I'm going to be pulling. Little does he know he's also going to end up helping me install the new axle.

2bkid,

I would definately replace the axle and springs. Since money is alway a consideration, start with 12" drum brakes, you can always upgrade to discs later.

I purchased two axles and springs for my Liner for about $500. Brakes on one axle, since I will be upgrading to discs also.

Bill

robandzoe · 11-30-2007, 07:20 PM

For that little thing - disc brakes, in my opinion, are overkill - unless you're loading it down with Boulders. The electric drums will be fine. Everyone likes to spend other people's money... Axis Axle - $450 - install $250 - total $700.

urbanfood · 12-01-2007, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robandzoe

For that little thing - disc brakes, in my opinion, are overkill - unless you're loading it down with Boulders. The electric drums will be fine. Everyone likes to spend other people's money... Axis Axle - $450 - install $250 - total $700.

not to disagree with a VAP veteran BUT, i don't think disc brakes are overkill. i agree, people do like to spend other people's money, and i hate spending MY OWN money BUT i did pony up the extra cash for the kodiak disc brake system and had greg install it at inland rv. pricey? of course. i read a lot of threads about electric brakes vs disc brakes and one of uwe's posts come to mind. for me, the decision was easy.

the peace of mind i now have is priceless (plus the fact it's one more thing i can take of the "when i get more money i'll upgrade to that" list)

2bkidfree · 12-01-2007, 03:55 PM

In between rain showers today my buddy came over and we weighed my trailer. For those of you out there that are interested in this kind of mundane thing.

Curb side was 1362 lbs.
Street side was 1521 lbs.
tongue weight was 340 lbs.

The trailer was empty. I think the street side weight was because everything is on that side of the trailer including all that cast iron piping.

FYI. We used digital weight scales that are use for race vehicles. It's good to have friends with pricey tools.

2bkidfree · 12-03-2007, 09:00 PM

I've read threads where people ask about the old Stromberg Hydraulic brakes. Attached are two pictures showing the system. When the handle is vertical the safety chain is attached to the tow vehicle and the smaller handle locks in place. Upon breakaway the chain releases the smaller handle that is spring loaded to apply hydraulic pressure to the system to stop the trailer.

The vehicles hydraulic brake system was directly connected to the trailers for activation. This made it really hard to change tow vehicles.

2bkidfree · 01-04-2008, 01:02 PM

Well, I got the new Dexter axle and Deaver Springs on. I didn't want to re-weld the hanger points so I got custom leaf springs made. Didn't cost much at all compared to having to call in a favor for the welding.

Taking the old axle out and installing the new one was a breeze. Did it all by myself. The toughest part was getting the POR 15 off my skin. Figured out that "PB Blaster" gets it right off if you get to it fast enough. Probably not good for the skin though.

I've attached pictures of the old axle, new axle installed and the new axle with it's guard dog. He thought it was a really big bone until he tried to pic it up.

I'm also attaching a picture of my crushed oven side vent if anyone knows where I can get a new one made. Don't really want to use a plastic one.

Gilbert