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Old 01-04-2008, 03:21 PM   #29
safari57
Rivet Master

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Profile:  1951 21' Flying Cloud
West Coast , BC
Posts: 3,080
Images: 9

Gilbert,

That axle installation looks great. You might be able to recreate that vent yourself, or have a local tin shop (heater duct place etc) recreate it since they have the bending tools. But I'd be tempted to try it myself, after I first tackled restoring the old one. With some patience and thought I'm sure that one could be tapped back into it's original shape.

Thanks for sharing the update photos. I guess now you have to go find out where that darned puppy buried the old axle set up.

Keep us posted on your next project.

Barry
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Life is short - so's the door on an Flying Cloud (ouch)

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Old 01-15-2008, 11:29 PM   #30
2bkidfree
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1959 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
Posts: 37
Images: 5

Fake oven vent.

Well, I removed the crushed oven vent to try to fix it and guess what I found. The crushed oven vent had a piece of aluminum riveted to its back. The opening in the side of the trailer also had a piece covering it's inside skin. I know the vent worked at one time because I can see the steam/heat marks on the trailer. I can't see the inside wall portion of the vent because it's blocked by the oven. Anyone have any ideas why the PO would've done this and is it a problem? Seems to me that venting an oven is a good thing.

I'm posting pictures of what I found.
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:42 AM   #31
Zeppelinium
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Profile:  1970 18' Caravel
1977 23' Safari
1975 31' Sovereign
Palmer Lake , Colorado
Posts: 1,942

From the photo up in your post #28, it looks like the vent is just below the countertop. Maybe some PO had coal stove and needed a vent!

Modern ovens don't need a vent like that. The hot air comes out the slot behind the stovetop and is usually vented up at the overhead cabinet level by a fan. I think it's OK that your "vent" is covered over.

The only real use for that vent is if the PO had a fan of some sort that was right next to the oven's vent slot and aggressively ejected the hot air. This would only be "practical" if the trailer had been used a lot in cold weather and humid climates--it might have eliminated a lot of interior condensation. But it would also have sucked cold air in through every leaky window and door seal.

The only reason for this vent would have been a wood burning stove.

Zep
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Old 02-19-2008, 10:32 AM   #32
2bkidfree
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1959 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
Posts: 37
Images: 5

New propane rack and paint

Well, I finally got the new propane rack mounted and painted. My neighbor used his new welding unit and it was really cool. He used to lug over his huge welder, but now he has this James Bond type unit. It comes in a brief case and works on either 120 or 240v. It's from Miller.

I also painted the front and found out something. I used Por 15 and it worked nice, but the Sterling Silver top coat took forever to dry and never developed the hard coat that the Por 15 did. It can scratch and rubs off. I called the mfg. and they said that is how it comes out.

I also have been working on the interior and figured out how to get the 12v working, the 120 works as well as the propane lamp (it just doesn't put out much light). The heater and stove work, but he fridge is shot.

If anyone has an interior propane light that works, let me know how much they put out. The guys as the VAP said that I probably need to replace the propane lines (they're probably right). 49 years can lead to a lot of build up.

I'm including pics of the work. BTW the 2x4 at the front is there because someone came really close to "Can Opening" the side of their car so now everyone can see where the trailer ends.

Gilbert
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Old 02-19-2008, 02:18 PM   #33
Zeppelinium
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Profile:  1970 18' Caravel
1977 23' Safari
1975 31' Sovereign
Palmer Lake , Colorado
Posts: 1,942

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bkidfree
...I also painted the front and found out something. I used Por 15 and it worked nice, but the Sterling Silver top coat took forever to dry and never developed the hard coat that the Por 15 did. It can scratch and rubs off. I called the mfg. and they said that is how it comes out.
...
In my experience, most silver or aluminum paints are like that, very fragile. On the other hand, I used Rustoleum aluminum spray cans to redo my tanks, and although they show rub marks, the paint has remained on without flaking.

Zep
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:01 PM   #34
2bkidfree
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1959 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
Posts: 37
Images: 5

New door Lock

Well, I couldn't find a Bargman L-77, so I converted a horizontal Bargman L-66 to work in a vertical configuration. Took longer than I would've expected, but it acutally works. I'll post more details and pictures on how I did it under the Door Locks forum later. For now here is a picture of it with the dead bolt I also added.

Gilbert
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:43 PM   #35
overlander63
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Profile:  1974 31' Sovereign
L.A. , California
Posts: 13,212

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bkidfree
If anyone has an interior propane light that works, let me know how much they put out. The guys as the VAP said that I probably need to replace the propane lines (they're probably right). 49 years can lead to a lot of build up.
Here's a pic of our LP lamp. It was broad sunny daylight when I took this photo:
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:24 PM   #36
2bkidfree
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1959 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
Posts: 37
Images: 5

LP Light

Thanks,

Mine must have muck in the propane line because yours is much brighter than mine. I wonder how you clean out a propane line or do you have to buy a new one.

Gilbert
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Old 04-20-2008, 07:29 PM   #37
jeffsmattson
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Profile:  bradford , Vermont
Posts: 3

Spare Wheel

I just bought a 62 Bambi. I am looking for a spare wheel. Where is the best place to find such a thing? I have put new tires on the trailer but it has no spare.
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