Fridge Not Lighting on LP

[DWade]

My fridge LP operation worked well and then I lit the hot water heater and oven and it started kicking off the LP for the fridge and only operating on electric. Not a prob while at RV park, however I couldn't run LP while driving home (thus requiring me to buy one of those squeaky styro coolers and bags of ice). Plenty of LP in tanks. When I go thru the on/off switch reset I can hear some slight clicks (probably an igniter?). Any ideas?

[JamuJoe]

I had a similar issue after 40,000 miles of travel with our FC23FB. The RV mechanic cleaned out dirt and debris in the fridge burner chimney. Problem solved.


Safe Travels,
Jamu Joe

[HowieE]

If your tank regulator is working there is no reason that the use of the stove and or hot water heater should effect the frig.

crack the gas line at the frig until you smell gas to prove that air is not in the line. Close the line and retry.

[CRH]

Sounds like you need to check the pressure. Fortunately, my fridge has a gauge in the gas line for just that.

[Al and Missy]

I had a problem where if I used my gas grill and stove while the water heater was running it would shut off. This was just before my changeover valve failed. Replaced changeover valve and regulator as a unit and the problem went away. I suspect the regulator pressure was down.

Al

[ghamr]

We had a similar problem...frig would run on gas for a few minutes the red light flashed. Had to get a new 'mother' board installed ($250)! Ouch!

[KenSanLan]

We had this problem. First check to see if pilot light is burning. If it is - turn off gas. Remove the gas jet and soak it in denatured alcohol. Blow it out with compressed air. Clean burner tube with small bristle brush or pipe cleaners. This fixed our problem.

[Siegmann]

Originally Posted by JamuJoe

I had a similar issue after 40,000 miles of travel with our FC23FB. The RV mechanic cleaned out dirt and debris in the fridge burner chimney. Problem solved.


Safe Travels,
Jamu Joe

I've seen the routine maintenance instructions recommending to clean the burner flue, but always wondered how it was done. There is a "baffle" in the flue that would make it difficult to run a brush from the bottom up through the top. And you can't access the whole tube on my rig without pulling the refer almost completely out of it's cabinet. Maybe your tech blew it out with compressed air?

[mayco]

Sounds like it may be a bad regulator. Try running your over, furnace and stove top all at the same time. If they wont all run then my guess is bad regulator.

[JCWDCW]

Typically the burner Flue is blown out with compressed air. Messy job. Then you need to disassemble the burner and blow all the rust particles out of it. One thing I found some years ago was the rust from the flue had fallen on the burner which is just a closed end tube with little slots in it. Gas could not get out the slots and thus no flame. Quick blow with air fixed the problem, but brushing it off would help. You need to remove the wind baffle ( cover around the flame) to get at it. About 3 screws as I remember.

JCW

[Siegmann]

Like I thought, compressed air. Thanks for confirming.

[Al and Missy]

I wondered the same thing when I tried to clean mine. Do you blow the compressed air in from the bottom, top, or both?

Thanks,

Al

[Siegmann]

If you have a full height fridge, like I do, you probably can not access the top of the flue without pulling the fridge out, which requires a significant effort. I'd blow from the bottom.

[JCWDCW]

Agree... you cant get at the top. Remove shroud, cover the burner and blow straight up. There are coils of gas and electric heaters in there so don't be poking around in there!
JCW

[JamuJoe]

Originally Posted by Siegmann

I've seen the routine maintenance instructions recommending to clean the burner flue, but always wondered how it was done. There is a "baffle" in the flue that would make it difficult to run a brush from the bottom up through the top. And you can't access the whole tube on my rig without pulling the refer almost completely out of it's cabinet. Maybe your tech blew it out with compressed air?

Actually, he was a mobile mechanic who came to my storage lot. He did a quick flue disassembly and brushing without compressed air. Some rust, some red dirt from boondocking in Utah. I thought that $40 for a 'house call' repair was quite a bargain!


Safe Travels,
Jamu Joe

[Siegmann]

I thought the 23' units had full height refers. On my unit, it has an inaccessible flue top. Yours must be different?

[JamuJoe]

Our flue is accessible behind the lower of the two louvered vents on the port side.

[Siegmann]

Yup, definitely different. I only have a lower louvered vent, and then a roof top "scoop" covered vent. I can only access the bottom of the flue.

[sroach]

Originally Posted by DWade

My fridge LP operation worked well and then I lit the hot water heater and oven and it started kicking off the LP for the fridge and only operating on electric. Not a prob while at RV park, however I couldn't run LP while driving home (thus requiring me to buy one of those squeaky styro coolers and bags of ice). Plenty of LP in tanks. When I go thru the on/off switch reset I can hear some slight clicks (probably an igniter?). Any ideas?

Probably a simple and easy fix. Same thing happened to me about a month ago..

Take off the over to the ignitor for our burner. You'll have a tip on one end and a burn tube on the other. clean out the tube and remove the tip and make sure that is clean and clog free.

as you're putting everything back together make sure the thermo-couple is touching the flame.