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Old 05-16-2012, 09:24 AM   #1
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Question Fresh water tank stopcocks

I have a 23' International with a 30 gallon freshwater tank. There is a petcock on the side of the tank which extremely hard to turn, but once turned to the on position the water only drips out. Is this normal. Also, the drain plug under the tank drips out water when screwed in. I am assuming that this plug is open when screwed in , not out. I never get enough water out of it to tell. Is this normal?
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:24 AM   #2
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Open up the filler tube, you may need some air. Kind of like holding a bottle upside down.
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:20 AM   #3
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Thatís Satanís petcock!!!! Youíve gotta lay on the cold, wet ground, and reach waaaay behind the tire and, of all things, turn the BLANKETY-BLANK thing with your left hand to open or close it! And which way do you turn to open or close it? Who knows? I hate draining the fresh water tank petcock and I hate closing the fresh-water tank petcock. AARRGGGH! Is there any help out there for me?
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:18 AM   #4
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That’s Satan’s petcock!!!! You’ve gotta lay on the cold, wet ground, and reach waaaay behind the tire and, of all things, turn the BLANKETY-BLANK thing with your left hand to open or close it! And which way do you turn to open or close it? Who knows? I hate draining the fresh water tank petcock and I hate closing the fresh-water tank petcock. AARRGGGH! Is there any help out there for me?
The only final solution is to crawl under there one more time (with the tank empty) remove the petcock, add a pipe (or hose), route the pipe to where you can reach it, then put a new valve on the end you can reach. The pipe does have to slope down for drainage all the way from the tank to the new valve, though, so you may not be able to route it very far before it gets low enough to be a problem.

I'm a lefty, so I can say this… The word "sinister" in addition to meaning "evil" also means "to the left." Since it's to the left AND it's evil, the petcock really IS sinister!
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:55 AM   #5
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Sounds like the designers at A$ are at it again. I guess they don't realize that a lot of us who own A$'s are not as young as we use to be.
Someone needs to think practically when it comes to this stuff.
I think it should be a requirement that with each "new" design. The person or persons who came up with the design should be required to test it's practicality personally.
I mean, look at some of the places they stick the power converters and electrical panels. They should be required to change out a converter once the trailer is finished. How about having them change out a pressure regulator or valve in the plumbing system.
I think they would have a whole different perspective on their designs if this was required.
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:59 AM   #6
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Sounds like the designers at A$ are at it again. I guess they don't realize that a lot of us who own A$'s are not as young as we use to be.
Someone needs to think practically when it comes to this stuff.
I think it should be a requirement that with each "new" design. The person or persons who came up with the design should be required to test it's practicality personally.
I mean, look at some of the places they stick the power converters and electrical panels. They should be required to change out a converter once the trailer is finished. How about having them change out a pressure regulator or valve in the plumbing system.
I think they would have a whole different perspective on their designs if this was required.
Taken to extremes, by that criterion everything would be surface-mounted and in plain sight, with all exposed wiring and plumbing. Unfortunately, then it would look like it's designed by an engineer, and no one would want one.

I am an engineer, so I know.
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:15 AM   #7
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I have no idea if this was a new design for the 2012s but on my 2012 27FB International there are two red levers on the bottom of the fresh water tank as well as the petcock.

Opening both easy to grasp handles then turning on the water pump drains my fresh water tank quickly. I'm able to reach both handles while squatting down by the wheels. I'm seeing the water drain from two ports when it's pumping out.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:49 AM   #8
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xo!rider, You are right, this will drain the tank. But not completely. This water is pulled through a tube to the pump, out the petcocks but there will always be residual water on the bottom of the tank. I made a metal key with ends that fit over the white valve handle, This gives me the purchase I need to turn the valve completely open. Any valve used infrequently will be hard to operate.

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Old 05-18-2012, 11:06 AM   #9
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Me too

I have to pull apart my dinette, to get to my fresh tank drain valve, on my Argosy 20'. I understand why. Anyway, my valve lever is made of a soft plastic
that broke off. it is really hard to replace without removing the tank.
SO......I was think about redesigning the hose from my tank to my pump, by adding a tee and running it thru the hole in the floor where the original drain hose went. ( and plugging the drain hole in the tank. I also want to put in a
petcock with an extension hose on it to be able to add antifreeze with out taking the hose off. What do you think , Am I asking for trouble or am I a genius ( like my mother said)?
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:18 AM   #10
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What do you think , Am I asking for trouble or am I a genius ( like my mother said)?
You're a genius who's asking for trouble. Instead of a tee, add a Y-valve so that you can select either the pump or the drain at the valve, but not both at once as you'd have with a tee.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:27 AM   #11
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Thanks Pro

That would be simpler.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:28 AM   #12
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Protagonst, I'm an engineer too (PE). Both a tee or a Y valve configuration would work. I'm only being preachy here, as I agree the Y would look more elegant. My mother never thought I was a genius.

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Old 05-18-2012, 11:36 AM   #13
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With the proper design nothing would show. It would simply be a "Utility Cabinet". The electrical stuff would be above and separate from the water system.
Unlike a lot of trailers where the Univolt is sitting among the water pipes and valves.
I believe it would actually save space.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:45 AM   #14
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Protagonst, I'm an engineer too (PE). Both a tee or a Y valve configuration would work. I'm only being preachy here, as I agree the Y would look more elegant. My mother never thought I was a genius.

Dan
You are correct; both a Tee or a Y-valve would work. I recommended the Y-valve so that you eliminate the possibility of sucking air at the pump if the drain is accidentally opened.

Plus, the Y-valve itself eliminates the need to put another valve at the end of the drain line.

I don't mind you being preachy. A good reality check never hurt anybody.
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