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Old 02-04-2016, 12:58 PM   #15
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2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
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Looks like you have to go to the big box for the valve...and price has gone up, but they are great quality. This is for the flange only.
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Old 02-04-2016, 02:01 PM   #16
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1996 25' Excella
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Ditto the idea to cut an access hole.
Cover it with sheet metal or plastic screwed to the original pan. Careful not to use long screws that could puncture the plastic tank.
You may have to McGiver the connection to the tank if you need to cut out a piece of piping. I remember using a bit of plastic tubing and hose clamps to reconnect the new pipe to the stub on the tank. My new valve was a 1/2" brass ball valve that I mounted closer to the wheels where I could get at it without laying on my back under the trailer. I used U-brackets to hold the new valve and pipe in place.
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:41 PM   #17
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1994 34' Limited
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the lubricant is the same as dielectric grease available in auto parts stores. i had the same problem. i moved the drain valve past the rear tire so it was easier to access.
i added an elbow at the tank ran the pex line down the frame and added a quarter turn ball valve at the end. used plenty of clamps especially on each side of the valve to support when open and closing.
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Old 02-04-2016, 05:57 PM   #18
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1988 25' Excella
Montrose , Colorado
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Fresh water valve sticking

My fresh water drain valve became very hard to open and close. I opened the valve, laid on the ground for access to the opening, and sprayed PAM food spray into it. Worked the handle back and forth a few times and that did it. Nice and free.
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:18 PM   #19
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Maybe you could heat the tubing with a hair dryer or hot water to soften it enough to push the new valve in? If that doesn't work and you can't find other access then it's cut and patch. In situations like this I always ask myself "how did they put this together when it was made?" and that usually leads me to the way to do it.
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:35 PM   #20
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Mine had small hose clamps at the barb fitting at the valve end AND tank end. Fortunately someone had cut an access but it was still difficult with my large hands. BUT it was doable. The old hose had no stretch to it so I carefully slit it with a utility knife at the tank end and replaced it. I now carry a spare length of hose and new valve just in case it ever happens while on the road. Hardest part is getting the trailer high enough to work under it.
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:25 AM   #21
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First reply ever. The fresh water tank drain valve on my 2008 22' Sport was broken off by a road hazard. I travel logging roads a lot. I has the new valve for a someday fix but I use a rubber stopper from the Hwd store. I bought spares. I keep just a little extra pressure on the stopper with a metal strap and two self tapping screws. I put a dab of adhesive silicone on the screws so I do not have to tighten them excessively which would strip them. It has worked for three years. The strap I use I fashioned from the original valve guard which was the low point and part of the reason the valve broke.
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Old 02-29-2016, 06:46 PM   #22
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this is from an amazon review about food grade silicone:

" spoke with someone in the technical department at CRC, and this product is NOT in ANY WAY meant to come into contact with food. So if you need it for a home grinder, or anything that would require you to put this product in an area of a machine/grinder/slicer that WILL come into contact with food, DO NOT use. The tech suggested a cooking spray, such as Pam, or Castor Oil, or any cooking oil to use instead on ANY part of a machine that WILL come into contact with food. Thank you to CRC Tech department for helping me with this clarification. This product IS a "food grade" spray, but that does NOT mean it can come into contact with food, only that it can be used on machinery that PROCESSES food, IF the food does not come into contact with that part of the machine. I.e. gears that the food never travels by, past, through, etc/"

someone mentioned Pam spray cooking oil which might be the better stuff to use and you don't have to carry a can of other stuff you only need every so often..

on the unit we are buy the PO was telling me to spray some pam on the drain valve 2 to 3 times a year or when you get ready to open it to drain the tanks and move the valve open and closed and open several time as well to distribute the oil .
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:45 PM   #23
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I'm also having trouble operating the drain valve and have had to use pliers on it of late. I've removed the access cover underneath the trailer and can see the hose clamps used to connect the valve/tubing to the fresh water tank, but the screws for the hose clamps are facing up instead of down, so I can't get on it. I'm thinking of cutting the clamp with a dremel and remember someone on the forums saying he did the same. I tried some vegetable oil once before with no success but didn't spray it inside the valve instead only applying it to where the knob transitions into the valve. I think I'll spray the oil into the valve, work it back and forth, and see what happens before going at the hose clamp with the dremel tool.
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:04 PM   #24
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This valve, and the access to it, has been problematic for decades. Airstream should be ashamed.
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Old 03-01-2016, 02:13 PM   #25
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they should be apparently they are not.. dam shame on a 90K new one to use such cheap carp.. I hope the workers at AS make bank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Siegmann View Post
This valve, and the access to it, has been problematic for decades. Airstream should be ashamed.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:50 PM   #26
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Pam is food grade silicone spray
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:58 PM   #27
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Why does it have to be food grade? If you are just spraying the outside of the valve, then nothing should get into the tank. You aren't drinking the water from the valve, so any type of silicone spray should work - right?
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