Floor Flood Event

[Siegmann]

A recent thread on a black water flood event and it's aftermath got me curious.

On that thread there were two opposing opinions on the afterwards recommended action. Leave it be, or drop the belly pan and replace all the insulation; not a small task.

Assuming water flood events are more common than sewage events, has anyone had real world experience where they dropped the pan and found extensive areas of still soaked insulation rusting their frame weeks or months after the event?

Less relevant would be winter events, or those in high humidity SE/coastal locations, with little chance for drying. But I would still be curious as to how extensive the insulation wetting was. I'm wondering if the flooring would divert most of the water to the few existing floor penetrations and then down to the belly pan.

Anyone with a story out there?

[Siegmann]

Bump.

Maybe few people with floor flooding events? Or where they pulled the belly pan? Or maybe Thanksgiving weekend was a poor time to ask this question? Thought I'd try again.

[EarlM]

take it to the factory and get it fixed would be my vote

Earl

[HowieE]

I don't think your question can be answered in a single approach.

There are not that many penetrations of the flooring that will allow water to get to the insulation. Just the sewer pipes, vent pipes, and the heater feed tot he belly pan.

Now as for drying that varies widely depending on where you are. If in the south west the trailer will dry quickly. If in the soggy northeast that's a different story and may warrant opening the pan.

A bigger question is the top of the floor. If rug was installed at the factory it covers the complete trailer and is often over covered with a plastic sheet. Water will travel across the surface of the floor and under those areas under cabinets. Those areas covered by plastic sheeting will never dry.

I carry a small wet vac for those times when a half gallon of ice cream comes out of the rig or a broken water pipe. I also try to shut the city water off when ever we leave the area for an extended time.

[Siegmann]

All good points.

On the limited floor penetrations question, you added the heater vent into the tank area. I figured this would actually help to capture water, take it down to the tanks and then out its pan (seams), and not affect the underfloor insulation.

While the drying out of the above floor areas are certainly an issue, as you noted, I'm beginning to think the underfloor fiberglass may only be locally wetted, and given a suitable climate, could dry out without dropping the belly pan. Or certainly not all of it.

[Gene]

There may be more penetrations than listed as strange things happen in the factory.

But the good news is that there may be weep holes in the belly pan plus some access plates for the fresh water tank valve and the monitor connections. These plates are not well sealed and will probably leak air or water.

To dry out the area below the floor (no matter what the climate), blow compressed air from above. Covering some of the penetrations will increase air pressure and dry out the area faster. It may take quite a while, but preventing rust is important.

Gene

[Siegmann]

I had thought about the idea of using a fan to circulate air, but figured the fiberglass would block most of the flow. Compressed air sounds like a good idea. Anything to avoid having to drop the pan. Fortunately, I have not had a flooding event. But it's reassuring to have ideas on how to deal with such a problem, should it occur.