Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Airstream Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > General Repair Forum
Click Here to Login
Register Vendors FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-09-2007, 01:10 PM   #1
4 Rivet Member
 
The Flintstones's Avatar
 
1970 27' Overlander
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 272
Fiberglass End Cap

How difficult is it to get behind the fiberglass end cap in rear bath to fix a dent in the roof? Ideally I would like to just lower it enough to smooth out my dents where the vent fan was. It looks to be one huge piece from the sink up and around with side cabinets included? Also I assume it won't fit through the door. I hate to just start removing rivets.
thanks
James
__________________
____________
1970 Overlander
The Flintstones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 01:43 PM   #2
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsflint
How difficult is it to get behind the fiberglass end cap in rear bath to fix a dent in the roof? Ideally I would like to just lower it enough to smooth out my dents where the vent fan was. It looks to be one huge piece from the sink up and around with side cabinets included? Also I assume it won't fit through the door. I hate to just start removing rivets.
thanks
James
A dent in the roof or a dent in a segment?

A photo would be helpful.

Andy
__________________
Andy Rogozinski
Inland RV Center
Corona, CA
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 02:26 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
clancy_boy's Avatar
 
2003 22' International CCD
Kiln , Mississippi
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,779
Images: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsflint
How difficult is it to get behind the fiberglass end cap in rear bath to fix a dent in the roof? Ideally I would like to just lower it enough to smooth out my dents where the vent fan was. It looks to be one huge piece from the sink up and around with side cabinets included? Also I assume it won't fit through the door. I hate to just start removing rivets.
thanks
James
Everything fits through the door. That's how they were made - frame and shell first - stuff inserted later. They knew repairs would have to be done in the future so they planned for it.

Good Luck, Mike
__________________
Michael & Tina with Layla and Preston BZ
The family has grown.
2003 22' INTERNATIONAL CCD
clancy_boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 02:29 PM   #4
gunnyusmc
 
Gunnyusmc's Avatar
 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 436
Images: 69
Dent

Everything inside your Airstream came in thru the door.
If this dent is smooth enough too be pushed out, you will do better by getting sucktion cup used for body work and pull them from outside. As Andy said pictures would help us help you.

Don
Gunnyusmc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 02:58 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
InsideOut's Avatar

 
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen , Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,702
Images: 108
Yes, while it's true that everything inside your Airstream "came in through the door"...it doesn't mean it can easily be removed at will. The fiberglass/plastic end caps are the first things in - when there is lots of extra maneuvering space. They may not fit back out through the door without removing everything else installed after them first...especially if it's in the bathroom. In our '64, in order to remove the back end cap, we would have to first remove the shower, all the interior cabinets (except dinette & uppers at the front cap) including the kitchen, wardrobes, gaucho and the ceiling hung upper cabinets.

My concern with trying to drop it so you could smooth out a dent would be that it is old plastic/fiberglass and could be very brittle - easy to crack.

Shari
__________________
Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008
WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005)
AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002

RMVAC | ACI - CO Unit (Formerly WBCCI) | BIRDY - our 1956 Safari | 1964 Serro Scotty
InsideOut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 03:17 PM   #6
gunnyusmc
 
Gunnyusmc's Avatar
 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 436
Images: 69
End Cap's

Thanks Sheri
When I took mine out the Non-Airstream was gutted.
Not trying too miss lead, just a senior moment.

Don
Gunnyusmc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 04:26 PM   #7
3 Rivet Member
 
Jacob D.'s Avatar
 
1964 26' Overlander
Alameda , California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
The fiberglass endcaps in my '64 are still very tough, not brittle at all, and if I had any reason to take them out I wouldn't worry about that aspect. I would worry that they are lapped UNDER the other (aluminium) interior skin panels, which means removing them means removing at least the panels below them and quite possibly loosening, bending, or removing the roof panels above them.

I don't have much of an alternative suggestion. I don't know the difficulty of repairing fiberglass afterwards, but would cutting an access hole in the cap to gain access to the underside of the outer skin serve? Re-attaching the cut-out section might not be easy, but almost anything would be easier than taking out the whole endcap.
Jacob D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 04:32 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
InsideOut's Avatar

 
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen , Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,702
Images: 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob D.
I don't know the difficulty of repairing fiberglass afterwards, but would cutting an access hole in the cap to gain access to the underside of the outer skin serve? Re-attaching the cut-out section might not be easy, but almost anything would be easier than taking out the whole endcap.
I would be more inclined to remove the damaged exterior panel to fix the dent, depending on the location & severity. At least with Olympic rivets & a rivet shaver there wouldn't be as much evidence of the repair when complete.

Shari
__________________
Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008
WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005)
AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002

RMVAC | ACI - CO Unit (Formerly WBCCI) | BIRDY - our 1956 Safari | 1964 Serro Scotty
InsideOut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 05:01 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
Fyrzowt's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
West of Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,699
Images: 8
I agree with Shari, if you can't get the result you can live with using a suction tool.
Dave
Fyrzowt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2007, 08:13 AM   #10
4 Rivet Member
 
The Flintstones's Avatar
 
1970 27' Overlander
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 272
Rear Dent

Here they are. It was bright this morning. I really just wanted to minimize the dents as much as possible by pushing them out from the inside with a basketball or something similar but I may have to live with them. Cutting and repairing the fiberglass might be the way to go.
thanks
James
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Roof-Dents.jpg
Views:	142
Size:	141.3 KB
ID:	40947  
__________________
____________
1970 Overlander
The Flintstones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2007, 08:16 AM   #11
4 Rivet Member
 
The Flintstones's Avatar
 
1970 27' Overlander
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 272
BTW I tried a suction cup but could not get a good bite with it as it is about 4" in diameter. I need to try and find a smaller one.
James
__________________
____________
1970 Overlander
The Flintstones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2007, 08:41 AM   #12
Rivet Master
 
InsideOut's Avatar

 
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen , Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,702
Images: 108
Hate to be the bearer of bad news...but - those are some pretty big dents with what appear to be creases. If will be very difficult to smooth them out no matter what method you try...

Unfortunately, aluminum is very soft and it stretches. It can't be "shrunk" back - kinda like a balloon, once it's been stretched it can't go back. You may be able to get the dents to appear shallower or not quite as pronounced...but the effect of the stretched aluminum will most likely still be evident and you won't ever have smooth end caps without replacing them completely.

I give you lots of kudos for trying - I know there are here on the forums thaty have had moderate success, maybe they will chime in with some tips. Good luck in whatever you decide to do...and please post progress & "after" pics ~

Shari
__________________
Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008
WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005)
AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002

RMVAC | ACI - CO Unit (Formerly WBCCI) | BIRDY - our 1956 Safari | 1964 Serro Scotty
InsideOut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2007, 09:01 AM   #13
4 Rivet Member
 
The Flintstones's Avatar
 
1970 27' Overlander
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 272
Thanks, that was the hope, to minimize the damage not repair. This is our first AS and I jumped on this not knowing anything about them other than wanting one for many years. Knowing what I do now I would have waited for one without the rear damage that this one has but hindsight is 20/20. I still feel good about it because it is within my capablities to restore this one to a very usable state. I will be calling Andy with an axle(s) purchase (soon hopefully) then we will hit the road for our first trip. We will use this untill something else comes a long.
James
__________________
____________
1970 Overlander
The Flintstones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2007, 03:02 PM   #14
Rivet Master
 
DanB's Avatar
 
1970 23' Safari
2005 30' Classic
1986 31' Sovereign
Lorain , Ohio
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,645
Images: 9
There is Hope!

James,

I have almost the exact same condition on my 1970 Safari. And yes, I believe that I can restore the damage to about 90%. It will never be a "show trailer", but hey, neither am I!

The good news is my front end had similar damage. After about 3 hours of going nuts drilling rivets and taking out screws, I had the underside accessable. 20 minutes later, I was very satisfied with the dent extractions! 12 months later, I'm still re-assembling !
__________________
DanB
________________________________
Proud Member of the Wally Byam Airstream Club #24260

www.campnova.com

The “Ohio Airstreamer -- Informal forum for weekend camping” thread.
DanB is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Saggy Bottom ( rear end ) smily Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 127 10-01-2006 08:28 PM
HELP PART NEEDED! Aluminum Termination Cap... InsideOut Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 46 03-20-2006 06:08 AM
need to replace a radiator cap stuart1 Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 1 10-28-2002 02:12 PM
310 front cap Bfrank General Motorhome Topics 11 07-25-2002 08:36 PM
End Joints in New Floor melprice Floor Finishes 3 07-12-2002 11:16 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.