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B4WEDI · 10-24-2010, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, this has been in my mind for years and today I made it happen. We are sick and tired of not knowing if the water pump switch is in the ON position or the OFF position...... especially now that we will know if the water pump is ON or OFF. [note: RED means it is ON]

NICE ! Do you have a couple more pix of which wires go where ?

Thanks

T & K

ROBERTSUNRUS · 10-24-2010, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B4WEDI

NICE ! Do you have a couple more pix of which wires go where ?

Thanks

T & K

Hi, no I don't have pictures of the wiring, but I will explain it like this: In the bottom left corner [in this picture from the back side] is the back of the water pump switch. There are three wires connected to the switch. These wires are: from left to right, GREEN, YELLOW, and PURPLE. The yellow wire in the center is the hot/power wire. The green wire does not connect to anything. And the purple wire goes to the water pump. Connect the red wire from the LED to the wire nut on the purple wire. Connect the black wire on the LED to the black wire going to the control panel.

B4WEDI · 10-25-2010, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, no I don't have pictures of the wiring, but I will explain it like this:

Thanks Bob ! I doesn't sound so scary after all ! I'll swing by radioshak en route and see what they have for appealing little lights and give this a go.

Thanks for a great idea, the pump on / off question has always been a bugaboo for us..... I'll let you know how it goes !

T & K

Westfalia · 10-25-2010, 08:29 AM

Bob, I don't have my airstream here, but it had looked to me like the actual pump switch was modular in the faceplate. Has anyone found a lighted switch to be used as a snap in replacement?

Westfalia · 10-25-2010, 11:43 AM

This looks like the right switch, but I'd need to confirm before buying. This is not lessen the impact of Bob's mod, I just hate drilling

.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p998.html

B4WEDI · 10-25-2010, 03:24 PM

Chris..... the switch on the panel of my '06 looks identical to the one in Bob's excellent pictures. The wiring colors he described match exactly also. Closer inspection of the switch shows that it is made by Sigma.

ROCKER SWITCHES by SIGMA / SPDT SPST DPST DPDT Momentary, Lighted, Waterproof & Miniature (Mini)

I just sent them an email with the question you posed.
I'll post my findings here.

T & K

B4WEDI · 10-25-2010, 08:50 PM

*** Question posed ***

"Hello, I have one of your switches ( LR-20985) in my Airstream travel trailer that turns a 12V water pump on and off. It is black in color. I would like to replace this switch using the existing faceplate with one that is illuminated to show that the pump is on."

*** Answer from Sigma ***

"The part no is 001A-31. You will have to run a ground wire from somewhere to the offcolor tab. get it at www.burnstines.com "

Lighted Rocker Switches - Rocker Switches - Low Voltage Switches - Switches - Electrical

http://www.burnstines.com/catalog/pr...compare/index/

T & K

ROBERTSUNRUS · 10-25-2010, 09:19 PM

Hi, I had thought about a lighted switch, but I didin't find a direct replacement one, [didn't look real hard] and is the switch lighted all the time or lighted when in the ON position? Those were some of my concerns. Let us know what you do.

Castaway · 10-26-2010, 08:06 AM

*** Answer from Sigma ***

"The part no is 001A-31. You will have to run a ground wire from somewhere to the offcolor tab. get it at www.burnstines.com "

Lighted Rocker Switches - Rocker Switches - Low Voltage Switches - Switches - Electrical

Compare Products List - Burstine's Distributing Corporation

T & K

[/QUOTE]

I have a 2010 Sport 22fb, where could I ground this to?

Gary

ROBERTSUNRUS · 10-26-2010, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Castaway

*** Answer from Sigma ***

"The part no is 001A-31. You will have to run a ground wire from somewhere to the offcolor tab. get it at www.burnstines.com "

Lighted Rocker Switches - Rocker Switches - Low Voltage Switches - Switches - Electrical

Compare Products List - Burstine's Distributing Corporation

T & K

I have a 2010 Sport 22fb, where could I ground this to?

Gary[/QUOTE]

Hi, connect it to the black wires; They are the ground for this system.

Westfalia · 10-26-2010, 10:37 PM

Great work on the find guys! This will be a nice sub $10 mod!!!

SilverRanger · 10-26-2010, 11:15 PM

Great mod. Thanks for the wiring details, and the source of the rocker switches. I love lights, and may go for the blue one. It'll look nice with the fresh water light, which always seems to be flashing red.

B4WEDI · 10-27-2010, 04:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverRanger

Great mod. Thanks for the...... the source of the rocker switches. I love lights, and may go for the blue one.

Check to be sure of your application, I think my panel wants to have the "MINI-ROCKER" switch ( A2-23 red or A2-38 green ).

Mini-Rocker Switches - Rocker Switches - Low Voltage Switches - Switches - Electrical

They are both backordered as of yesterday.... I am told just a week out. I will let you know if they are the correct ones. Supposedly, if wired correctly, the lamp will only be lit when they are in the "on" position.

Thanks goes to the nice folks at Sigma, especially a guy named Dan, who was patient enough to guide me through this and to forum member ROBERTSUNRUS, who stimulated this search !

Looks cool !

T & K

drew05 · 10-27-2010, 08:07 AM

Thanks for the info. Over the weekend I had looked at the CATCON (the manufacturer of the sensor) website and they had used the green lighted switch on a similar control panel, and wondered why they changed. Too bad they changed, hopefully it wasn't a reliability issue.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 11-07-2010, 10:32 PM

Hi, once again I decided enough is enough. About half the time that I hitch and un-hitch, the electric tongue jack stand sticks to the tongue jack tube. When I raise my jack, sometimes I have to fight to get the stand to release. I noticed that the stand has four cuts in the side of the tube and there are four depressions at these cuts. These depressions are what stop the inner tube from going all the way to the bottom. In mine, the depressions are getting hammered looking. I have thought about this for some time, but today it was going to get fixed. I measured the inside of the lower tube, [the stand] and it was two inches. Simple, I will just buy a two inch [outside diameter] washer and put it in there. The washer fit in pretty good, but it could fall out, so I used my little ball peen hammer and winged it in two places, right at the cut line. Now I had to hammer very slightly to seat the washer on top of the depressions. Now my tongue jack stand falls off when lifted, like it should. For under fifty cents, this was a modification that I wish I done years ago.

Note: in the first picture, the washer looks quite small, but it was because the camera was close to the stand. You can see in the last picture, that is was a good fit.

Castaway · 11-12-2010, 08:33 PM

Here are 2 of the modifications that we made to our 2010 Sport 22 fb. I had our local weld shop add 11 inches to the screw that lowers/raises the stabilizor jack, now I do not have to get on the ground to find or use them.
I also extended the compartment for the dump hose, I bought an 8 foot lentgh of 4" PVC and inserted it into the factory black tube, it to extend just below the side edge and then glued on a screw cap on both sides so that I can store more hose and it is easier to get to than before. Both of these mods were simple and cheap,gotta wonder why AS did not do them?

Gary

B4WEDI · 11-15-2010, 10:29 AM

"The Pump Pilot" worked out great for me....

If you are interested in doing this mod, I have a couple extra switches in Blue & Green and could get Red if desired.

I will send you all you will need..... a lighted switch, ground wire with the proper connectors soldered on including insulated ends and all other associated parts, with a simple sketch for installation. Shipped to your door for $18.00.

PM or email for details !

T & K

ROBERTSUNRUS · 12-28-2010, 04:07 PM

Hi, it seems that the storage compartment under my queen bed might be getting breezy. I have re-done the original door seal, but I still feel cool air coming from under the bed. I was thinking of maybe having a secondary weather seal on this door, but I wasn't sure how I was going to do it. Today I used some left over "D" shaped weather seal and wrapped it around the inside half of the door. It fits tight and the door is still easy to open and close, although a bit more snug. Whether it helps or not, I won't know until I can camp again in cold weather. It has to help some and surely can't hurt.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 12-28-2010, 04:17 PM

Hi, I finally ordered a Level for my trailer and today was a perfect day for installing it. I do not want to drill holes in my trailer if not needed. So I used 3-M two sided automotive moulding tape. The next obstacle was the front to rear level adjusting screw. Other's on this forum noted that after they installed their level, on trailers with the belt moulding, that you can no longer get to this screw or if you can it will be very difficult. Before I installed my level, I removed the adjusting screw and nut, and installed them up-side-down. Now I can adjust this from the bottom. I hope this will help others in the future.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 01-14-2011, 10:32 PM

Hi, I was thinking about dead space in our trailer and if I could make good use of some of it. In my kitchen, just under the sink, is a removable panel. This panel has no real use except to cover the area above my cabinet doors. They make this special hinge kit for use in your house, in-which I don't need, but it would be useful in my trailer. This kit from Lowes sells for about $16.00 and comes with two sets of hinges for cabinets that have two blanks. My Airstream kitchen only has one blank so I only used two of the hinges. Here are some self explanatory pictures. It was a tight job, and the trays barely fit.