last night, while measuring the front windows of my '69 Tradewind in the hopes of making my own rock-guard out of a beautiful old refigerator door (alas no) i happened to wonder:
what are your favorite uses of 'non-spec' (to say it nicely) items in the repair or alteration of your A/S?
The more i look around, the more i see curves that could blend right in with the exterior--not to mention the myriad adaptations, modifications, and use of baling wire that getting the interior up to snuff will require.
I had a problem with things falling off of the lazy-Susan pantry in my trailer while under way I wanted something smooth and flexible to wrap around the pantry when closed to prevent this. My final solution was to cut the side out of a vinyl industrial-grade trash container. The vinyl slides between the pantry and a wire bail as the pantry is closed, wrapping it tightly. The fix works 100%. I just cruised Home Depot aisles until I found exactly the right material for the job.
The photo shows the pantry removed with the vinyl sheet laying on top.
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John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2007 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison LTZ
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
I am considering making my own segment protector panels, (rock panels) for the front of my 71 Overlander out of sheets of stainless steel.
I think I can buy the steel for less than 495 dollars, (list price of segment protectors).
I was looking at a set on a 1985 Excella and I noticed that the bend is suttle and sweeping. The panels are riveted on with little extensions. I think I can attach and bend by hand.
Plastic supermarket bags are a must for lining my trash container and carrying left-over groceries home after a trip. I wanted a good place to stuff them. In my old trailer, I had a canvas sleeve hanging on the counter, but there was no good place in the A/S for that.
I used a piece of leftover vinyl from the pantry fix described above and 3 pieces of wood to make a 3" deep stuff box in the unused space alongside of the under-sink cabinet. There was already an opening in the side of the cabinet for plumbing that gives easy access to the box. I have room there for 30 or 40 supermarket bags without losing a bit of storage space elsewhere.
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John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2007 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison LTZ
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
The bathroom in my International has no airflow from the air conditioner or furnace, and it tends to be hot in the summer and, I'm sure, it will be cold in the winter.
I'm experimenting with installing an electro-thermal cooler in the big, relatively empty, fairing under the sink that will be operative whenever AC power is available. I'm experimenting now with a 12v module salvaged from a second-hand hot/cold insulated cooler. The final version will use either several of those small units or a larger commercial electro-thermal module. I may possibly use the inner skin of the trailer as a heat sink.
I don't expect earth-shaking results, but I'll bet I can provide a few degrees of heating in the winter and a few degrees of cooling in the summer for a small cash outlay.
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John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2007 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison LTZ
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
John-I like the idea of your coolers. When I get to the front of my MH I have a pair I am going to use in the bottom of the cup holders for warmers/coolers.
Smily- If the price of the stainless knocks your socks off, check aluminum. It is cheaper and the softer grades are much easier to work.
My favorites so far the LED lights, hopefully I will never have to change them. The rectangular headlights, because the old round ones just didn't make it.
Under the bed in the rear is my freshwater tank and pump, water filters, air compressor, hot water heater, and tool box. I needed access, so I hinged the bed frame and put in a linear actuator to lift it.
My all time favorite was blanking the three windows in the rear, I felt like I was sleeping in a fish bowl.
Just a suggestion because of cost, stainless is pretty expensive. All metals come in different hardness, you are at a trade off here. More dent resistance is going to mean harder to work. I have seen aluminum so soft you can bend 1/8" sheets by hand, so hard that sprockets outlast steel.
Smiley, don't bend your stainless or aluminum whichever you choose, take it to a sheet metal shop and have them put it through their roller. They can get just the curv you want and their will me no memory to streighten out. It wil cost about $10.00 or free if you're cute (personal experiance).
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just lookin for John Wayne
Martin and O'Brien