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Old 10-30-2017, 08:36 PM   #41
Rivet Master
 
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Stainless at each of four locations -- one round head machine screw, washer, washer on back and aircraft nylon insert nut set lightly so as not to compress the foam too much, especially on the top two at the AS mounting bracket.
I already have some thin foam between the frame and the Alu L metal that the two brackets are screwed to but didn't add it between that and the brackets. If I do anything more, and I may be done, I may try some 1 or 2" suspension springs (bottom one in the image) and a longer pair to stabilize and just stick with the current setup on the brackets.

It's hard to change from easy and quiet and essentially vibration free.

b
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Old 10-31-2017, 06:25 AM   #42
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2005 31' Classic
Garner, , North Carolina
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I was thinking on a "condenser" cooling fan it would work better on the top of the coils at top of cooling unit call the condenser coil. One reason I believe the new AS have issues with cooling in hotter climates is the lack of a roof top vent.

It seem the new or some of the newer unit have vent on bottom and up the side walls vs out roof vent. The fan mounted in bottom vent is akin to peeing in the pool. It warm around you but the overall temp of the pool is unchanged.

I have watched video of RV refrigerators with condenser fans that have t-stats attached to the line just past the condenser coils that would turn on if the liquid in coils were not getting cooled enough to allow the unit to effectively run.

When the refrigerator was not able to cool like normal, it was determined the fans were not turning on like they were doing before and the fans or what ever the problem was determined to be was fixed.. Most of the time the problem is the fan quite working in hot weather conditions.

SO to bring this all back to the point the fan or fans need to be on top of condenser coils to move more air across the coils to help with the process of cooling the liquid in the system at that point.

If you read up on how a RV ammonia system works you see the need for more air at the condenser coil if possible.

most of the time the fan are sitting above the top coil you see in teh picture below as that is the condenser coil.

picture taken from article in "Highways" Aug/Sept 2012 by Gary Bunzer, the RV doctor.

(picture taking hit for all.. first pic took with camera in normal talking position aka up and down.. second pic taken with phone turned on side like TV screen. posting here likes sideway taken pic to show up correctly.. )
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Carl, Raleigh NC
2-24-16 got a 2005 Classic 31D 460 watts solar, lithium 230 AH, 16" LT's, pulled by:
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WBCCI#1691, Piedmont Airstream Club, Unit #161, Region #3
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:57 AM   #43
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
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Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post
.....SO to bring this all back to the point the fan or fans need to be on top of condenser coils to move more air across the coils to help with the process of cooling the liquid in the system at that point.
Carl, I believe you have a valid point and I may try: loose the "brackets" and simply hang the fan from the screw holes where he L bracket attaches to the frame....subject to clearance between the coils and door.

You're also right re lack of roof venting. I've been saying this for awhile but simply opening the upper door usually allows the the fan to cycle off in a few minutes. n fact you can hear the resistance and change in fan air noise when opening/closing the door. I've even thought of changing the screen to a slightly larger mesh.

Bob
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