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Old 07-13-2017, 04:48 PM   #15
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Thread re my install post 711 Note there is discussion re wiring ID
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f542...ml#post1774433

Post # 10 This is a past post of mine that contains my experience as well as the link to the mother of all refer fan & noise threads
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ml#post1937288

post # 18
Lastly a recent thread re a dual fan install (nice work and results)
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ml#post1966148


this quiet design from jukeboxfun post #35 and this simple and effective solution post
# 11 by silvergate
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ml#post1919845


don;t underestimate sivergate's solution. It is amazing how much is helps the flow and allows the fan to cycle off earlier, this reducing wear and tear.
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Old 07-13-2017, 04:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
Not sure of the color but function is correct. I'll look for some past posts

Copper wire is +, middle silver wire is - and odd man out RPM control.

hmmmm.....Better double check. Re-reading my install post in the 1st link above " Lastly the wiring was pretty easy. As others have posted the image, hot is the center of the three. Looking at the plug converter it was pretty easy to determine which line was to be was abandoned (third wire odd man out…RPM control?). I clipped this short for easier ID, then slipped it in the shrink tubing to keep it out of the way. I did test on the batt to confirm the + / - and also before I soldered via fan switch, but the install was a no brainer."

Usually hot is copper and ground/common is silver. My apologies for the confusion. Try it on the TV's battery first to confirm. The fan label is the exterior side so air should be flowing out from the label.

IMO two fans is overkill. Loose the OEM and get a quality quiet fan. I went with the thicker model and the air flow specs were a bit better.
Bob
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:02 PM   #17
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If you do not want to mess with electrical, I would recommend looking at a solar exhaust fan cover that would replace the existing rooftop vent. They are for sale on Amazon for about $80. Its only gonna run in daytime but that's when cooling is mostly needed in the heat of the day for your frig.

They also have another solar exhaust fan for the black water vent pipe on the roof. Very simple to install and no wiring needed.
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:42 PM   #18
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fridge fan

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Originally Posted by greghoro View Post
The refrigerator fans do not work constantly, only when the refrigerator needs their assistance. It could be during the time their assistance was not needed that you found your new fans would not work.




This solution is only good when you have shore power. More flexible to use a 12V fan.


Greg
Hi I just moved my fridge location in my vintage rebuild and needed an exhaust. So i put in an aluminum stack and piped it to the top , back of the fridge. Just used a good computer fan and added a furnace plenum fan control. On at 120f off at 100f.
Bimetal control,so no power needed. See attached pics
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:52 PM   #19
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These are the fans we used in our 23D to cool the refrigerator compartment with positive air flow from bottom to top and thus the refrigerator ran cooler.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The fans were on a manual lighted switch when the stock Dometic refrigerator was in the trailer. After we upgraded to a freon based Vitrifrigo refrigerator with a 12Vdc DanFoss compressor, the fans come on whenever the compressor is running.
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:18 PM   #20
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Here is a 12v fridge fan with a thermostat: https://accessories.lazydays.com/val...FQKewAode_AFlg

Hank
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:30 AM   #21
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here is what I did, modeled after Switz's, modified. My install did not require removing the firdge. Feel free to PM if you have specific questions:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ds-166096.html
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:18 AM   #22
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What I did, years ago, was to buy a Snyder's rv fan kit. Sadly, no longer in business.

It's a molded trough of plastic which fits around the bottom and sides of the coils. There is a temperature-activated fan at the bottom of the trough. It forcibly sucks air over the coils.

I've never had troubles with a warm fridge since it's been installed.

The secret seems to forcibly pull air over the coils.
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:36 PM   #23
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We mounted 2 sealed pc fans to an aluminum frame we made. It was mounted so that it pushed air vertically, so it moves air without pressuring the space. The performance has been great as we were able to freeze water as well as keep things frozen in 106 degree weather.
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Old 07-16-2017, 12:51 AM   #24
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In our 2015 23D, there is a ceiling in the refrigerator compartment just an inch or so above the top vent opening because the convection microwave support is the other side of the ceiling.

If the propane oven were a convection microwave, then a taller refrigerator could be installed with a caveat that the side top vent would also have to be raised so there would not be a really dead air space where exhaust fumes could accumulate above the existing cent level.
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:25 AM   #25
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Plug In 110v fan

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Originally Posted by harryk View Post
I bought a small 110v fan at walmart and plug it into a receptacle mounted above the refrig. access door...fan has a switch, off, low, & high. I turn it on only when its hot out...its pointed up toward the roof vent. Works fine.

None of the ones I have seen at Walmart fit or are hard wired. Would you mind sending a pic of the fan you purchased? Many thanks!
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:24 PM   #26
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Last March, while at the Escapade in Tucson, I had the ARP v.2 module installed in my '87 Excella. Last month one of my friends who has a SOB and has experienced rv refrigerator failure installed the ARP v.3.1 module with the fan. Their website https://www.arprv.com/ is very informative, and Paul & Mao Mack, the engineers who designed and market this product, will answer any questions. Briefly, the module monitors the boiler temperature of the refrigerator and prevents the boiler from overheating, very often due to being parked off level.
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Old 09-05-2017, 10:20 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by vintagemotor View Post
Mattirs,
Most computer fans will have a "trigger" wire, thus the 3 or more wire harness on the fan. I cut off the connector and strip back a small portion of the wires, connect 2 of the wires together and test with a battery to find out which ones will spin the fan blades the correct direction (reverse polarity = reverse spin).
I chose red led fans which have an extra wire for the led lights, so 2 wires to neg and 2 wires to pos, it only took a couple seconds to figure out which.
Install 2, 3 or 4 fans, it doesn't matter as the fans use such a little amount of power (thus the tiny wires), just wire them in parallel, all positives to pos and all negatives to neg.
Good luck!
I finally got the fan to work the other day, had other pressing matters and I needed to step away from the situation to see what I was doing wrong.
I was attaching the negative to one side of the thermal coupler and the positive to the other side of it. Guess what when you do that there is no power flowing through it. DOPE SLAP!
Now that I run power through the fan it works.... as in connect the positive to the wire running to the coupler and the negative to the coupler it's self. Again Dope Slap. LOL

Now I have two quieter fans moving more air.

Thanks,

Matti
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