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Old 11-12-2015, 06:13 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by RickJacobs13 View Post
This may be a dumb question but will the Dometic drip kit #3107688.016 work on a Mach 3? I'm changing out the AC this weekend and thought the kit may be a better option. My grandfather istalled the mach 3 in 1997 and it need some work. I'm just going to replace so I don't have to worry about it. The drain line is hooked up now but i'm not sure to what. Any help would be great.


Thanks

Rick
Totally depends on the location of the drain holes located in the base pan of the Mach 3. since you manually cut the new primary gasket to locate the drain cups, it might be possible. You would need a new primary gasket to go along with the second one that's included in the drain kit.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:28 AM   #86
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Thank you, Lewster!! I found this thread very helpful when I installed a new Dometic 15K AC/heatpump (Model 651816) on my 2009 FC 25FB. The old AC did have the big pan under it, and it was an ordeal getting it and the factory installed caulking off the trailer.

On the new install, rather than cut completely thru the gasket to accomodate the drain cup tubing, I used a 5/8" forstner bit. This type of bit cuts a clean hole just big enough to slide the drain cup tubing thru.

I did have a problem with one mounting bolt spinning freely. The bolt went into the nut part way, wouldn't tighten further, and couldn't be backed out. This led me to remove the Dometic's shroud, styrofoam cover, and inner plastic housing to access the nut. The nuts were 'glued' to the Dometic's base with caulk, but the one nut was missed, allowing it to spin freely. I was able to secure it enough to tighten the bolt.

I did not tighten the mounting bolts enough to reduce the gasket thickness from 2" to 1". The foam gasket appeared to be a closed cell type that does not easily compress. I torqued those bolts well, and no leaks.

Here's a couple photos showing my drain line connection and a gap around the wiring port in the Dometic unit's inner plastic housing--this latter gap allows insects to get into the trailer interior from outside.


Drain line connection--two layers of gasket material visible:



Caulking gap at wiring port of inner housing--brightly lit part of photo is light from trailer interior:


Good luck to everyone doing an AC R&R themselves!!

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Old 07-08-2016, 01:25 PM   #87
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2007 30' Classic
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Originally Posted by lewster View Post
GOOD-BYE DRAIN PAN!


After several requests, I have included a few recent photos of the actual installation of the Dometic Auxiliary Drain Kit # 3107668.016 that I installed while changing a couple of 10 year old Penguin I 13.5K models to new Penguin II 15K heat pump units.

The first shot is the original gasket, cut to allow the tubing from the drain cups (which have been screwed into the base pan) to pass thru. The cuts are then completely sealed with SikaFlex 221 polyurethane sealant.

Second shot is after installation of the second gasket directly on top of the original. This allows for the needed clearance after installation of the drain cups.

Third is the additional spacer blocks required to be installed at the back of the base pan to maintain a flat, solid installation on your roof. The white 'T' connector seen in the first photo is then plugged into your internal drain line.

Once you screw the unit down to the roof by compressing the gaskets to 50% of their original thickness, you have a clean, tight, waterproof roof seal. Be sure to blow out the trailer's drain line first to be sure that it is free of obstructions.
OK let me get this straight. in order to install this kit I need to remove the AC unit clean off all the stuff on the roof and then install this kit?

My current drain pan is completely cracked and leaking like a sieve. There is no way of just replacing the drain pan underneath without going to all this hassle? It appears like the slopped drain pan is just fastened underneath with some gasket.
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Old 07-08-2016, 02:13 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by lewster View Post

If you want to use the Dometic drain kit, you have to remove the Airstream drain pan to reveal the bare aluminum of the roof. In fact, because the Airstream drain pan is glued to the roof, you have to literally cut it off and do a good bit of scraping to get the aluminum surrounding the 14 X 14 opening as clean as possible to allow a good seal from the new gaskets. In fact, if you remove your A/C unit from it's Airstream drain pan, you will notice that there is no foam gasket present, just a thin piece of double sided foam tape to join the A/C to the drain pan.

The bottom of the A/C unit in the photo IS the base pan of the unit. Typically, in a normal installation on any other type of RV, the base gasket of the A/C sits directly on the roof and gets clamped to the roof from the mounting frame underneath the unit found on the inside at the ceiling. Four 1/4-20 X 6" bolts do the compressing of the gasket to form the seal to the roof. The lower return air grill or air distribution box (depending on what you have for temperature control) will have an internal metal separation gate that segregates the warmer return (intake) air from the cooler exhaust coming from the evaporator.

The second gasket used with the drain kit allows for the additional clearance of the drain cups that is required to let the cups clear the roof. The reasons that the Dometic drain kit works better than the Airstream drain pan are:

there is no bottom pan to overflow condensate into the coach if the drain line gets kinked or blocked
any excess condensate will overflow the drain cups that are located outside the A/C unit and find it's exit on the roof, not inside the trailer.

Any other questions or confusion?
Just a couple of questions. How do you cut off the existing drain pan?

If the existing air con does not have the gasket is it included in the kit? Or does I have to buy an extra one?

Four bolts? Mine only has three. 2 on the front and one in the back in the middle.

Thanks,
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Old 07-08-2016, 02:27 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gator.bigfoot View Post
Just a couple of questions. How do you cut off the existing drain pan?

If the existing air con does not have the gasket is it included in the kit? Or does I have to buy an extra one?

Four bolts? Mine only has three. 2 on the front and one in the back in the middle.

Thanks,
I did this last year when my old AC unit died.
I pulled the pan loose in pieces and scraped off all 5 lbs of caulk that was holding it on.
It takes 2 gaskets, only one comes with the kit.
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Old 07-08-2016, 02:59 PM   #90
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I have the same 3 bolts on my '76 Ambassador and they seem to hold things well. The pan is adhered to the roof mostly right around the AC roof opening. It took a while to get all the old sealant off the roof. You will need to move the AC unit off the opening and flip it upside down so you can get the sealant off and apply 1 gasket to the AC bottom. If you are lucky you may be able to fit through the roof opening and clean the roof off for the second gasket. Also make sure the cop kit includes a main gasket and a foam spacer that supports the rear of the AC unit. Lewsters directions are a great guide.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:17 PM   #91
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I had the local AS dealer ugrade my 2002 to a new Penguin II and it is cooling nicely with much less noise compared to my old unit. However, I am still experiencing water drip inside the trailer and assume it is due to freezing. Also can anyone show me or explain where the filter is located and how to clean it? The manual doesn't say much. Thanks.
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:57 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pappy19 View Post
I had the local AS dealer ugrade my 2002 to a new Penguin II and it is cooling nicely with much less noise compared to my old unit. However, I am still experiencing water drip inside the trailer and assume it is due to freezing. Also can anyone show me or explain where the filter is located and how to clean it? The manual doesn't say much. Thanks.
Pap
If your dealer also installed the matching air distribution box (ADB) for your new Penguin II there will be 2 filters that slide out toward the front of the trailer.....one on each side.

Carefully inspect the forward section of the ADB and you should see a couple of finger holds where you grab the filter tray and slide it forward.

Another probable cause of either freeze-up or dripping condensate is the unintended mixing of return air with the cooled exhaust air blowing over the evaporator. If the tech who did the replacement did not properly seal the return section from the exhaust, your unit will be prone to evaporator freezing and/or excess condensation.

You will have to remove the ADB to check for this condition.
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Old 11-22-2016, 01:34 PM   #93
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1973 23' Safari
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Just received my penguin II 15K unit and getting ready to install. Great info here, thank you everyone.

I've heard of people installing wood braces under the AC for additional support. I have a 73 Safari with an armstrong already installed and there is decent bracing, on one end it is just not right at the edge of the 14x14 hole. Is there really a need for the additional bracing since the old AC did just fine up there?
Thanks,
Greg
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Old 11-22-2016, 04:44 PM   #94
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If there is no frame around the opening then you need the wood to give the roof enough stiffness to compress the gasket and support the weight of the unit. Newer trailers have a metal frame which is even better than wood.

Perry
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Old 11-22-2016, 04:56 PM   #95
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What Perry said. I had to add some wood to mine on 2 sides.
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Old 11-22-2016, 05:11 PM   #96
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Thanks. Would love to see some pics.
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:26 PM   #97
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I would make a box. Ideally the box should be bonded to the inner and outer skin.

Perry
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:29 AM   #98
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Planning on upgrading my Penguin 1 13.5k to a Penguin II 15k unit on my 2008 Classic 25fb this season. While I haven't had any issue with the my pan on my current A/C I'd have to get either a new pan or the drain cups.

Anyone that switched from the pan to the cups are you finding the cups have enough capacity for both of them to drain completely during humid weather or do you notice overflowing to the outside occasionally?

Thanks

Kelvin
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