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Old 06-21-2013, 04:57 PM   #29
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Hi Steve you may have already done this but when I cleaned my Carrier AC on my 1976 Sovereign a week or so ago I noticed just before sealing everything back up that the Squirrel Cage blower cupped blades were full of dried on dirt and grime. It still worked and blew air but with the blades full of dirt it certainly did not get the bite it was supposed to. Mine were hard to get to but I was able to clean them out and it should make a difference in the air flow. Just a thought.
Don,
Thanks for the reminder. Yes, my squirrel cage had everything in it except acorns! By cleaning it with air then water, I'd say the aerodynamic efficiency nearly doubled. Note: in my opinon, it's typically fine to gently spray the wiring, motor, blower, coils, etc. off with water. Minimize the use of water by first brushing the dust off or preferably blowing it off with compressed air or even a leaf blower will help. The important thing is to give the water plenty of time to drain and evaporate off of the electrical equipment before operating it.

Steve

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Old 06-22-2013, 03:57 PM   #30
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Doubled Up Foam

The Penguin 13500 Btu just failed this week after about 30 hours use on our 22FB with a "Sweet Smell" of graham crackers (freon) and white smoke in the cockpit.

The Airstream dealer in Tucson, AZ (Lazydays) replaced under Dometic Warranty. The Tech noted that the original cups were cracked as it appeared that The Airstream Factory hand not used double foam for clearance so the A/C must have been sitting or vibrating on the the plastic drain cup. He added the Cup Drain Kit #32284 3107688008 plus what came with the new upper Penguin 2.

The installed unit sets about a inch higher and the double foam blocks need to be added to support the rear metal pan.

There seems to be less vibration from this configuration as the stand off and extra foam cushions better.

The drain cup bottoms sit a inch away from the top of roof

You loose some overhead clearance though.

Attach a pic as video for reference

Cheers
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:13 PM   #31
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The important thing is to give the water plenty of time to drain and evaporate off of the electrical equipment before operating it.

Go low tech. Wrap all electrical and motor components in saran wrap before spraying to condenser or cage fan assemblies. Saves on drying time or other damage.

On the drain pan, I've ordered a new 15K Penguin II from Lewster so I will be doing an install with the unit soon and will provide relevant commentary as to its installation.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:18 PM   #32
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After a cleaning of the drain tube, half a tube of sealant and torqueing down of the AC unit I no longer have water leaking inside my trailer. It is all going down the drain hose or outside. I can live with that.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:56 PM   #33
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For anyone who is interested, I complained about not being able to attach .pdf files and Janet (moderator) posted the new Dometic Drain Kit Instruction file for me back in this post.

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Old 07-14-2015, 10:42 AM   #34
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Drain Kit For BriskII

I am installing a new Dometic BriskII AC on my Sovereign with the Auxiliary Drain Kit. Thanks for Lew for posting the instructions and pictures on the install of the kit and for the PM's answering my questions.

I did notice that on the Dometic Brisk II unit that there are already pre-drilled holes in the base of the unit that match the screw holes in the drain cups which will center the cups over the drain in the base.

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Now moving on to getting the old AC off the Airstream putting the new on top.
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:19 PM   #35
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What happened to the original Armstrong, Don?
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:05 AM   #36
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What happened to the original Armstrong, Don?
The old Armstrong stopped working a few years back and I replaced it with the Carrier AC.

The new Dometic Brisk II is installed and works fine including the auxiliary drain kit. The one thing I am not completely satisfied with is the manual control air distribution ceiling assembly. It does the job but the actual vents, 4 of them 1 front and back and 1 on each side are just holes cut in the assembly with plastic doors that open and close. No directional vent louvers of any kind. Also the front vent get less air flow than the back and sides since the air must be funneled around the return air duct. This seems to cause the very front of trailer to heat up during day since the air flow does not reach that far. I am not sure about the side vents in a narrow trailer and I have these closed. Time will tell
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Old 07-16-2015, 03:50 PM   #37
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You wouldn't happen to still have the old Armstrong, would you?
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Old 07-16-2015, 06:26 PM   #38
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You wouldn't happen to still have the old Armstrong, would you?
No that was 8 or so years back
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:25 PM   #39
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I am about to remove my Armstrong unit. Needs a fan motor. That's it.


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Old 07-16-2015, 10:44 PM   #40
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I am about to remove my Armstrong unit. Needs a fan motor. That's it.


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Why don't you fix it?
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Old 07-16-2015, 10:47 PM   #41
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No that was 8 or so years back

Ok. Thanks.
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:54 AM   #42
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Reliability my wife an I don't want to be on a week long trip and have a failure like we have had with the fan motor. I understand they are very well built. But I am not interested in have to climb up there to fix it when it does break. Also no one around me will work on them.


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