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Old 06-06-2013, 05:09 PM   #15
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Every Dometic roof A/C had a drain area built into the base pan where it collects the condensate from the evaporator coils. There is a drain hole in the base pan on either side of this section where the condensate normally drains onto the roof. The drain cups are positioned directly under these drain holes to catch the condensate and channel it thru the included tubing of the drain kit, where it joins to the internal drain hose of the Airstream and gets channeled out under the belly ban.

You have to remove the plastic drain pan that Airstream provides and because your unit has no 14 X 14 gasket, one must be added to the bottom of the A/C base pan. You then add the second gasket (used to raise the unit to allow clearance between the roof and the drain cups included with the drain kit to complete the installation.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:51 PM   #16
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Thanks for explaining. I misunderstood your first post when you said base pan, I was thinking the plastic one, not the bottom of the AC. I did not turn my AC unit onto the side (thinking about compressor oil getting into coils) so that I could see the bottom. I did not realize the condensate comes through two holes in the base of the AC unit.

So those two white objects outside of the gaskets are the drain cups, small basins that collect the condensate. Makes perfect sense! If I ever do that again, I will not use the original Airstream pan.

edit add:
1. Do the hold down bolts require retightening as the gaskets age?
2. How is the original drain pipe connected to the cups?
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Thanks for explaining. I misunderstood your first post when you said base pan, I was thinking the plastic one, not the bottom of the AC. I did not turn my AC unit onto the side (thinking about compressor oil getting into coils) so that I could see the bottom. I did not realize the condensate comes through two holes in the base of the AC unit.

So those two white objects outside of the gaskets are the drain cups, small basins that collect the condensate. Makes perfect sense! If I ever do that again, I will not use the original Airstream pan.

edit add:
1. Do the hold down bolts require retightening as the gaskets age?
2. How is the original drain pipe connected to the cups?
The cups have 1/2" nipples molded to them that the included tubing connects to and is retained with pressure clamps. Once the gasket is tightened to 50% of its original thickness, you generally never re-torque them unless the bolt positions have changed. Be careful not to over-tighten the bolts and compress the gasket more than 50% of its original depth.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:50 PM   #18
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I'm about ready to rework the drain pan on my '91 trailer with the AS pan or the Dometic cups. Lew has been very patient with me to explain how the Dometic twin drain cup system works and I have done extensive searches and carefully read the posts. Two things that still concern me are:

1. A while back I talked to AS customer service and they said that for a Penguin, the factory drain pan worked better. They said that although the factory at Jackson Center now installs the Dometic cup system, it doesn't catch as much condensate and about half of the water drips down the drain tube and about half drips down the side of the trailer. Also, an Airstream dealer who sells and installs both parts (AS pan and Dometic Cups + 14" Gaskets) advises that they've had less complaints with the AS pan. I don't know what to think as I'm open to either method.

2. The second thing that I don't quite understand is the two inch thickness of the foam shims enough for an Airstream's curved roof? The instructions from Dometic are for a flat roofed trailer. Do I need to do anything extra to compensate for the radius of the AS roof. It looks like the long piece of foam tape supporting the aft end of the AC unit under the condenser coils would probably be thick enough since it is at the top of the roof curve in the center. However the shorter piece of 2X2 foam that goes under the compressor might need to be thicker since the roof is curving downward and the compressor is relatively heavy.



I know that I'm overthinking all of this, but I want to do the best thing, install it correctly once and be trouble-free for many years to come. I've had enough trouble with leaks.

I've ordered a replacement shroud and I have both drain pan and cups/gasket in my shopping cart at Out of Doors Mart and I'm ready to delete one and order the other. Any help will be appreciated

Thanks,

Steve
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:06 PM   #19
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Lewster, You saved my bacon again with this post! I installed one today and nowhere in the install directions did it mention the doubling up. I was concerned about crushing the tubes and why there was a second gasket. Monday, I will correct this.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:05 PM   #20
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They are correct about half the condensate does run down the side of the trailer. There are some holes that don't need to be there.

Perry
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:12 PM   #21
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my 1972 Coleman runs the condensate right down the side of my 1962 Overlander and it does not bother me one bit. Some people are bothered by it however...
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:23 PM   #22
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Try wrapping the suction lines with foam pipe insulation.......just like the residential A/C units use. Should do the trick.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:41 PM   #23
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Oh, no. I am taking it off and doing as you showed in this thread. It is either right or it is wrong. I knew something was not correct with the install direction! This is the trouble with having to buy three parts and having three separate instructions with no two really overlapping correctly.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:46 PM   #24
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Thanks for the replies everyone! I don't mind wrapping the suction line from the evaporator to the compressor. I don't know why it's been so hard to wrap my mind around what I what to do with the AC.

One thing that I'm glad about is that my AC works well. I've had a lot of problems with other things in my trailer and I'm pleased that the AC isn't one of them. After I took the picture shown above, I carefully blew everything our with compressed air and then rinsed the condenser coils, compressor, etc. with water and got a ton of dirt out of everything. Then I installed the old shroud on the unit and ran it for two days... no unusual sounds, just cool air. I've also bought replacement filters. I'll be replacing the baffle foam as I believe that new foam is included with the new shroud.

All my best,

Steve
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:59 PM   #25
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We are very interested to know more. Does the pan catch everything?
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:49 AM   #26
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The pan allows the overflow when the drain plugs up to run inside the trailer. The cups make that same overflow run on the outside of the trailer.

I just found an easy way to deal with the drain plugging problem. I bought an inexpensive hand operated transfer pump in the automotive section of Wally World, and I connected it to the bottom of the drain hose and then pumped a Clorox and water mixture into the hose until it overflowed out of the cups. That should keep the grunge from growing in the drain line for quite some time.
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:47 PM   #27
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Additional Information from Dometic Customer on Drain Kit

Being a retired engineer, I'm still in the habit of looking for more information. In the quest for clarity on just how to install the 3107688.016 Dometic Drain Kit, I decided to call Dometic's Customer Support and get a copy of their installation instructions. I talked to a lady there named Heather Perry and she was very helpful. It turns out that Dometic updated and expanded their instructions in April of 2012. It has additional pictures and explanations.

Thanks,

Steve
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant View Post
Thanks for the replies everyone! I don't mind wrapping the suction line from the evaporator to the compressor. I don't know why it's been so hard to wrap my mind around what I what to do with the AC.

One thing that I'm glad about is that my AC works well. I've had a lot of problems with other things in my trailer and I'm pleased that the AC isn't one of them. After I took the picture shown above, I carefully blew everything our with compressed air and then rinsed the condenser coils, compressor, etc. with water and got a ton of dirt out of everything. Then I installed the old shroud on the unit and ran it for two days... no unusual sounds, just cool air. I've also bought replacement filters. I'll be replacing the baffle foam as I believe that new foam is included with the new shroud.

All my best,

Steve
Hi Steve you may have already done this but when I cleaned my Carrier AC on my 1976 Sovereign a week or so ago I noticed just before sealing everything back up that the Squirrel Cage blower cupped blades were full of dried on dirt and grime. It still worked and blew air but with the blades full of dirt it certainly did not get the bite it was supposed to. Mine were hard to get to but I was able to clean them out and it should make a difference in the air flow. Just a thought.
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