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Old 07-18-2013, 08:18 PM   #1
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Dometic 2452 refer problems

I have a two way power Dometic 2452. It seems to wok fine on propane but not on A/C. I verified the breakers are intact and that there is 120 vt to the plug. What else should I be checking? Is there something needing replacement? As always thanks for your feedback........
Woody
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:30 PM   #2
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Check that the heater element has life first. Pull it out (may require removal of the smallish hatch covering it, held in by one Phillips screw on mine). Jury-rig a connection directly to AC120 volt power, and NOT through the circuit board. Usual disclaimers: do NOT electocute or burn yourself

It should get very hot, very fast. If it doesn't start there. Mine ran ~$60 delivered to me here in Canada. If it does heat up, turn your attention to the circuit board...
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:34 PM   #3
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By the way, it's a good idea to Google the owner's manual for the best access to fine detail about your model. They are all roughly the same, but no two models are identical IMHO.

Also, for best performance on LP gas, it's a good idea to clean the soot out of the combustion chamber. You can use your brand new manual to find out how to do that!
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:50 PM   #4
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I have a different model fridge, but the board may be similar. Mine has 2 fuses on the board. One Is definitely for the 12v and I believe the other is for the 120v. If you are familiar with a volt meter, you could test the contacts on the board where the 120v heater element plugs into it to see if you have proper voltage there. Keep in mind that the board has both 12v and 120v going to it, so think safety. Per the prior post, try to snag a copy of the manual for your model. The wiring diagram is not very detailed, but it is adequate to assist in troubleshooting.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:16 PM   #5
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You need to do the test by completely by-passing the circuit board. Keep your fault-finding process simple, making the results 100% reliable.

Testing the circuit board is the next step, AFTER confirming that the heater element is OK.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:57 PM   #6
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A quicker, easier and safer way to test :

Remove the circuit board cover.

Look at the bottom row of connectors and locate the 2 that provide 120VAC power to the heating element

Use a volt meter to verify that there is 120VAC present at these terminals.

If yes: Remove the terminals and do a continuity check of the element
No continuity, bad element

If no look for the fuse that protects this circuit
If fuse is good........bad circuit board
If fuse is bad..........replace and check everything again
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:56 AM   #7
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Thanks

Thank you one and all for your help. Guess you know what I'll be doing today. This board / forum is the best.............
Woody
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:08 AM   #8
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Thank you one and all for your help. Guess you know what I'll be doing today. This board / forum is the best.............
Woody
Pard, with a handle of "amazingwoody" you are assured to get help!
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:40 AM   #9
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You may have a GFI receptacle powering the reefer, check if the GFI is tripped, if so, the heating element could be shorting to ground causing the GFI to activate.

Steve
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:41 AM   #10
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If yes: Remove the terminals and do a continuity check of the element
No continuity, bad element


If no look for the fuse that protects this circuit
If fuse is good........bad circuit board
If fuse is bad..........replace and check everything again
While this should be an absolute test for a go/no go on the heater element, I found that my simple VTVM would not measure the old element. I tried it on another one I have, many years newer, same thing.

When I got the new element I tested again with the exact same results (open circuit) on both meters.

Five seconds on my workbench connected to a 120V AC supply absolutely showed the difference between the old dead one and the new good one.

All this to say, perhaps on a higher-grade of VTVM this can be seen, but not on my cheap ones, both old and new.
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:55 PM   #11
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Sorry Aage,

I have a Fluke 87V meter, so I can't comment on other meters. Mine never fails to point the way.........
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:29 PM   #12
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I guess when it's right, it's a Fluke, huh?

This is the first time I have found my old VTVM to not tell me the truth. And I have had that thing for a loooong time.

Wanna trade a Fluke for one of my old tube testers?
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:51 PM   #13
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You very funny guy!
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:00 PM   #14
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More 2452

Wasn't quite sure how to post so I started a new one. With that said, here is the update / upshot. Are you ready? It's the bloody fuel selector knob!!!! Will not properly seat. Seems to be too short. At any rate, I did all the tests suggested. An At&T lineman buddy stopped by and together figured out the "element" was not getting any juice. Pulled the knobs off and turned the fuel selector manually. Bang: juice. Just went out a while ago, freezer is really cooling down. Suspect will be making ice before morning. Looking for a new knob as Dometic doesn't have anymore. I'll get something figured out..........
Woody
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