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Old 08-07-2015, 05:59 PM   #85
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
Dallas , Texas
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Polishing of seams (and roof)

I decided to polish side wall, end cap, and roof seams so that, when I am done with that polishing, I can reseal the seams (and rivets) that need to be sealed. The seams need to be polished before adding sealant because polishing after adding sealant means that the buffer is likely to spread the sealant around. My plan is to polish all seams (to the final high shine) now and polish the rest of the exterior walls at some later date.

As described here, I learned the “Jestco” method of polishing the trailer.

My ‘56 has the 13 panel front end, and I decided to do the first-pass polish on all of the smaller panels:
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I also decided to do work on the roof:
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At this point, my plan is to do only the first-pass polish of the roof. My roof was a mess because of the very large air conditioner unit that came with 8038 when I purchased her (see here).

Because I had removed all the roof vents, I was able to use a step ladder on the floor of the coach and get my upper body through the vent openings (by leading with one arm, as described here). While working from the rear roof vent, I sat on the roof directly on top of the rib that joins the end cap and the center section of the roof.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:04 PM   #86
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
Dallas , Texas
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Removal of black tar around windows and vents

I have removed all of the windows and vents for reconditioning (see here and here), and I decided to remove the black tar that was used at the factory to seal the openings on the inside. Eventually, I will re-install and buck rivet the windows and vent frames. To get a tight rivet set, I think the black tar must be removed.

Tools. I first tried a power drill with a wire brush:
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I was making very slow progress, so I next tried my multi-tool with a scraper blade, and that worked very well:
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Techniques. After using the multi-tool, I went back with the drill and wire brush for final clean up. My suggestion is to use the scraper tool first (which will get off the bulk of the tar), and then use a wire brush attachment to a drill (to get a smooth surface). My goal was to have a clean enough surface for the rivet set to be fully flush against the coach wall.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:12 PM   #87
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Next up: exterior panel under front window

When I finish the seam polishing, I will remove the exterior panel under the front window. It (like the panel under the rear window) is badly beat up and corroded. The rear window panel is mostly corroded, but the front window panel is mostly road dings. I took the Makita polisher to the front panel, and it would take lots of hours to get it into a high shine:
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In addition, the front panel had a water fill (for the fresh water tank under the front window) that I will not use:
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Tools. I will drill out all the rivets using the tools described here.
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:27 AM   #88
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
Dallas , Texas
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Front panel removed

I drilled out the rivets holding the panel under the front window and removed the panel:
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I was amazed to find almost no sealant along the two side seams (and there was quite a bit of discoloration from water, I think, getting between the front panel and the two wrap-around sheets). I intend to apply a bead of Trempro/Vulkem to each seam when I install the replacement panel.

Another advantage of removing that panel is that it lets me replace the under-sized hold-down plate (that is bolted through the subfloor to a steel angle welded to the frame) in the center of this image:
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I purchased a longer and thicker piece of aluminum c-channel to use as the hold-down:
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The last image above shows how the floating c-channels (they are not attached any ribs or cross-stringers between ribs) held the front panel to the two wraparound sheets. I marked each of the floating c-channel pieces so that I can replicate the original layout. I may have to back drill (drill from the inside of the coach through the wraparound sheets) to properly place the floating c-channel rivet holes in the replacement sheet. I have not thought through how that will work!
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:54 AM   #89
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Front corner metal is in bad shape!

I spent some time yesterday polishing the curbside exterior front corner sheet metal. It has really been marred by almost 60 years of road life. There are lots of dings, scratches, etc., and after multiple passes with the gray bar polisher (I use the Jestco polishing system), I made some (but little) progress:
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I am thinking about using sandpaper (see here), but I am nervous about that.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:01 AM   #90
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Finished (for now) polishing the roof

I finished my first-pass polish of the roof. My present plan is to do only the first pass polish (using the gray bar) on the roof above the highest front-to-back rivet line. Almost no one will ever see the highest part of the roof. What the first-pass polish did was to remove the worst of the oxidation.
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:12 PM   #91
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
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I did the same thing. The roof gets the most of the weather and bird splats. And I'm not tall enough to see it. So heck with mirror finish on the roof.

David
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Old 09-16-2015, 04:54 PM   #92
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Where not to put the rake

I discovered the hard way that it is not good to lean the rake for the buffing pads against a garage wall painted white.

After I finished buffing, I used mineral spirits on a rag to wipe off the compound that ended up on the wall. Here was the end result of that wiping:

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So, after I finished buffing that day, I had to paint that section of the wall.

Hank
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Old 09-16-2015, 05:41 PM   #93
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Progress on the plumbing

I spent yesterday working on the gray holding tanks and related plumbing. It was a good day because I was able to get the various pieces to fit pretty much as I wanted.

Installing the gray tanks. First, I had to fit the gray tanks (purchased from Vintage Trailer Supply with custom fittings to suit my plumbing plan - VTS-851) into their respective belly pan bays. Each tank had fittings on either or both the front and rear sidewalls of the tank (that had to be lined up with openings in the cross-members), and each tank had at least one fitting on the top of the tank that required a hole in the subfloor of the coach.

Cutting holes for the gray tank top fittings. I took lots of measurements and checked everything at least twice before I cut the holes in the floor. Based on my calculations about location of the tank in the bay and the location of the top fitting, I drilled a pilot hole from underneath the trailer and then went inside to make sure that I was satisfied with the location of the pilot hole. I then used my hole saw adapter to my power drill and cut (from the inside of the cabin) the holes, using the pilot hole to guide the hole saw.

The front gray tank is in the bay over the axle, and I could not get my drill into position to drill the pilot hole from underneath. I made some more calculations and then drilled the pilot hole down from inside the cabin. I was a bit off on one of the two, but I drilled an accurate second pilot hole and used that second hole as the pilot hole for the hole saw.

Relief! I was very relieved when all the tanks ended up fitting as required.

Connection of tanks to dump assembly. Next, I worked on connecting up the holding tanks to the dump assembly. Here is the starting point, with a steel pipe welded through the frame rail. The PVC discharge pipe from the two gray tanks will pass through the steel pipe and then join the Valterra dump assembly.
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The Valterra will sit directly underneath the black tank, which sits on the floor of the wet bath. I still have some fitment to do because the Valterra assembly needs to be up against the bottom of the subfloor, and it does not want to do that. I will either have to reconfigure (shorten) the fitting (which I am reluctant to do because it is threaded) or raise the black tank off the floor (which I do not want to do because it will raise the height of the already-high toilet).

Here is the whole dump assembly (dry fitted and not attached to the black tank):
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Here is the rough layout of the gray tank plumbing (without the tanks in place). One gray tank will be over the axle (the bay to the far right in the photo) and the other gray tank is in a bay to the rear (the bay to the left in the photo), leaving one open bay (the bay in the middle of the photo with the T and the two flexible fittings) for the plumbing to join the two tanks and connect to the dump assembly:

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I spent lots of time on my back under the trailer on a mechanic's creeper, and that it not my favorite activity, but at this point everything seems to fit, so I am happy.

Hank
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:00 PM   #94
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Closing holes in the floor

Due to plumbing modifications by prior owner/s, 8038 had a lot of holes in the floor that needed to be closed up.

It turned out that I was able to use some of the circle cutouts from the holes I made for the gray tank top fittings (see the post directly above).

I settled on this process:
1. Find or make a circle roughly (but smaller than) the size of the hole to be filled. For several holes, I used my Harbor Freight circle cutter:
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To hold the circle insert in place in the hole in the floor, I screwed a metal strap or a piece of wood to the circle insert and then screwed the strap or the piece of wood to the bottom of the subfloor:
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All the circles were smaller than the hole, so I need to fill the gaps. Based on my reading on the Airforums, I chose Abatron LiquidWood & WoodEpox, which involves a two-step process: (1) mix and apply a liquid epoxy to penetrate the wood and (2) mix and apply a more solid epoxy to fill the gaps.
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Before I applied the epoxies, I decided to tape (from the bottom of the subfloor) the holes so that none of the epoxy would drop to the floor:
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Here are some of the holes after the two-step process (I will sand them when I can get back to working on 8038):
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Hank
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Old 09-17-2015, 08:47 AM   #95
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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New post in Plumbing

I just posted a question in the plumbing forum about the Valterra assembly.
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Old 09-17-2015, 09:09 AM   #96
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1967 26' Overlander
1955 22' Flying Cloud
1964 17' Bambi II
Clear Lake Shores , Texas
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Similar trailers in Texas

Very interesting thread. I have just finished a much less involved restoration of a 55 FC. Did many of the same things you did with plumbing and rear window but kept inner skins on (though I paneled the front end cap in birch). I did most of my plumbing using ABS pipe rather than PVC and glued joints rather than clamps. I only added a single gray tank but used the same dump valve assembly as you. Did your trailer have a propane water heater?
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:08 PM   #97
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BambiTex View Post
Very interesting thread. I have just finished a much less involved restoration of a 55 FC. Did many of the same things you did with plumbing and rear window but kept inner skins on (though I paneled the front end cap in birch). I did most of my plumbing using ABS pipe rather than PVC and glued joints rather than clamps. I only added a single gray tank but used the same dump valve assembly as you. Did your trailer have a propane water heater?
8038 was built as a park model with a 110v electric water heater and a 110v electric (only) fridge. I will build out 8038 to have an on-demand propane water heater and a three-way fridge.

Hank

P.S.: Very nice work on the front end cap!
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Old 09-17-2015, 08:06 PM   #98
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
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Hi rankam, When I purchased my Dometic 2510 I discovered that three way fridges are going the way of the dinosaurs. A 12v power source just isn't enough to keep the fridge "on boil". My 2510 is just 115v ac and propane. It works great. I just leave it on propane when we are pulling it down the road.

Just something for you to consider when you go fridge shopping.

David
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