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Old 11-11-2007, 08:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katsix
I was reading the owners manual for my 2008 23 safari which I will be picking up in Dec. and It has a lot about condensation in the trailer. Has anyone had a problem with this? The manual says to leave the closet doors open to prevent the problem. It seems for the cost of the airstream I should be able to keep the closets and cabinets closed. Rob
I noticed no one mentioned the condensation kits that you can buy at a boat shop (i.e. West Marine). They're not expensive and boaters have used them for several years. There are little pellets that suck up condensation and do the job. You just have to go in your AS once in a while and empty the water from the bottom pan.

check it out.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:26 PM   #16
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Hi, I noticed no one mentioned the fact that the "SE" and "CCD" models with bare aluminum interior walls and ceilings seem to attract much more moisture than the basic Safari's and Classic's with the vinyl headliners and mouse fur walls.

Note: "Mouse Fur" and "HA HA" are 2air trade marks.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:31 PM   #17
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It was kinda humid this weekend, but the dehumidifyer we use pulled over 2 gallons a day from the interior. No cooking or showers...

Smells fresher
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Old 11-11-2007, 11:49 PM   #18
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Humidity

We all pretty much have this problem and it will always happen no matter what we do.
I have found a solution for myself a long time ago and it works very well and keeps the interior dry.Only thing though is that you need to be hooked up to electricity.So it would be hard to do it for boondockers unless you have a generator.
I have a heater I use during the winter and it is one the rotates side to side.Since it is digital I can set the temps on it.When there is humidity I run the heater and the A/C at the same time setting the temps on the heater to what I want.It always dries the air no matter how much bad humidity is in the Airstream.It works for me and I still do it to this day.So I really never have to worry about it as much any more.
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Old 11-12-2007, 02:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoman
We all pretty much have this problem and it will always happen no matter what we do.
I have found a solution for myself a long time ago and it works very well and keeps the interior dry.Only thing though is that you need to be hooked up to electricity.So it would be hard to do it for boondockers unless you have a generator.
I have a heater I use during the winter and it is one the rotates side to side.Since it is digital I can set the temps on it.When there is humidity I run the heater and the A/C at the same time setting the temps on the heater to what I want.It always dries the air no matter how much bad humidity is in the Airstream.It works for me and I still do it to this day.So I really never have to worry about it as much any more.
Running the AC unit, and the heater at the same time operates much like old commercial "reheat" AC systems that were often used when power was cheap. Now days commercial reheat systems are pretty much illegal, because they waste energy. Not to mention the fact that if you are paying for energy they are probably not such a good idea - they work, but will be expensive to operate.

Keeping the air moving by using a small circulating fan inside the trailer will help, since the moisture in the air does not have time to condense on cold surfaces, like the interior aluminum skin.

Really it's all about good ventilation and a reasonble solution to help minimize condensation is to use the exhaust fans located in the shower, toilet, and kitchen area. Always keeping a window slightly open to let the outside air in (Airstreams are tightly built, if you don't let air in, it cannot not be exhausted), in conjuction with the heater if the inside temperature gets uncomfortably cold.
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Old 11-12-2007, 03:05 PM   #20
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By the way I should say that controlling humidity in a stored, unused Airstream is a whole other can of worms.

Particularly in a place like Florida, in the summer.
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Old 11-12-2007, 03:19 PM   #21
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What about condensation that occurs while the unit is in storage during the winter months? When I had SOB, I used to open both of the Fantastic Fan Vents under the MaxxAir Vents, but with SOB, I had a full cover for the unit so snow didn't make its' way into the trailer. Now that everyone recommends no cover for the AS (and I fully agree) how do I open vents while not allowing snow to enter? I have one MaxxAir vent cover over the bedroom fan but still no way to keep snow out of the opening.
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:12 AM   #22
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream 22
What about condensation that occurs while the unit is in storage during the winter months? When I had SOB, I used to open both of the Fantastic Fan Vents under the MaxxAir Vents, but with SOB, I had a full cover for the unit so snow didn't make its' way into the trailer. Now that everyone recommends no cover for the AS (and I fully agree) how do I open vents while not allowing snow to enter? I have one MaxxAir vent cover over the bedroom fan but still no way to keep snow out of the opening.
Snow will blow in any open vent. Not as much maybe when the exhaust fan is actually operating, but still it can find its way inside when the wind is blowing. A pan under the vent to catch the melted snow, maybe an idea?

But, why do you want to leave the vents open?

I would think that winterizing the AS, closing the vents, and then just letting it get cold. Or set the stat low, say 40F, but being sure to eliminate any opportunity for moisture (snow or otherwise) to be present in the AS.

As you know, winter air is very dry, and humidty will not be a problem.

Warm up should be done slowly, and without adding moisture to the interior. With everything being cold, added moisture will condense everywhere.

Please, understand that we now live in central Texas, and I have zero actual experience stroring an AS in cold, real winter weather, like say in Cleveland, OH. in November, December, January, Feburary, March, April.

How we used to hate it when it snowed in April.
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Old 11-14-2007, 12:52 PM   #23
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While we have never put a unit in storage our trailers have weathered the cold snowy winters at home mostly unused in Michigan and Illinois. We do not leave any vents open or windows cracked and have never had a condensation problem inside. However if we ever brought the cold AS inside to the warm, like a package that has sat in a cold truck for several days, I bet it would sweat too. We see frost on the exterior from time to time. The sun heats the AS during the day then the night air cools it. We go in and out frequently though and sometimes heat it up to spend time inside. When we heat and use the trailer over night with shades pulled there will nearly always be trapped condensation on the windows when we open the shades until the air circulates or the temperature equalizes. (?) We just have not seen any issues with condensation and never mold or mildew but the humidity is not high here. And we have long winters.
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:30 PM   #24
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Like the product for boats, Camping World sells products for RV's that absorbs the moisture to prevent dampness in the idle RV.

Damp Rid System - Camping World

This would lend be to believe it is a problem across the board with all makes, Airstreams and SOB's alike. We use our Airstream in the winter and are able to park it at our home so we have it plugged into 110v shore power to run the furnace fan and keep the thermostat set on 40F and keep the cabinet doors open. I do blow out the plumbing to be on the safe side, but haven't had pipes freeze yet or experienced any damp feel inside while it is parked in the yard.

Ventilation is the key to keeping the moisture down and the condensation low. Cold surfaces will act like moisture magnets so the windows would fog quickly from the condensation of our breath if we didn't keep the furnace on in the winter.
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:51 PM   #25
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I use a Soleus CFM-40 dehumidifier. Set in the continuous mode, it will pull excess moisture out of your air. Everything will stay dry. It will usually fill the tank almost full in a day.
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Old 11-14-2007, 02:13 PM   #26
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Lots of info on condensation. Think about those cars you see in the winter (in the frigid north) that have their windows all fogged over. It's due to condensation. Cold outside, warm air inside and the warm air inside keeps getting warmer from the 98.6 degree bodies in there. IF fresh air is moving around inside, it carries the moist air outside and it is gone. IF a window is cracked or the AC is turned on (warm) for awhile, it goes away. Some folks never figure out how that works but it is the same thing with the AS. Cold outside temps and the warmer inside bodies, especially if there's a family with a dog or a couple of cats. If only two people, keep air moving and chances are pretty good the condensation will be kept to a minimum. That's why they suggest keeping closet doors open also - so the air can circulate throughout the trailer. Common sense will help a lot..........happy 'streamin!!
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Old 11-14-2007, 04:29 PM   #27
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Quote:
Think about those cars you see in the winter (in the frigid north) that have their windows all fogged over. It's due to condensation. Cold outside, warm air inside and the warm air inside keeps getting warmer from the 98.6 degree bodies in there.

In our youth that cover was privacy. oh never mind... As I said we have long winters.
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Old 11-18-2007, 02:06 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilgrim
Lots of info on condensation. Think about those cars you see in the winter (in the frigid north) that have their windows all fogged over. It's due to condensation. Cold outside, warm air inside and the warm air inside keeps getting warmer from the 98.6 degree bodies in there. IF fresh air is moving around inside, it carries the moist air outside and it is gone. IF a window is cracked or the AC is turned on (warm) for awhile, it goes away. Some folks never figure out how that works but it is the same thing with the AS. Cold outside temps and the warmer inside bodies, especially if there's a family with a dog or a couple of cats. If only two people, keep air moving and chances are pretty good the condensation will be kept to a minimum. That's why they suggest keeping closet doors open also - so the air can circulate throughout the trailer. Common sense will help a lot..........happy 'streamin!!
I was responding to the posting about storage of an AS in the winter, not using an AS in the winter.

When a winterized AS is in storage there is essentially no source of moisture, and letting the trailer get to near ambient temperature should eliminate condensation.

As far as using an AS, car, truck or whatever, with people, dogs and/or kids inside, doing their thing, will will result in condensation on the windows, and on most every other cold surface that is below the dewpoint temperature of the air.

A common way to help to prevent condensation is to keep the air moving by using the vehicle's window defroster, or a small oscillating fan. One of the reason this works is because the contact time between the moisture in the air and the cold surface is reduced, and the moisture simply does not have the time to condense.

Opening a vent brings in the dryier (and colder) outside air, thereby lowering the dewpoint temperature of the air inside the vehicle.
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