Cleaning the gap?

[thecatsandi]

Ok, for the forth time my stall is beign re-caulked. First time by factory when installed. Second by the factory, third and forth by me. The caulk keeps pulling away from one side or the other. This all in less than two years.

I have removed all the old caulk and cleaned as best I can. It is a relatively small gap and the only things I can think of to clean the gap further will disolve the shower stall. De-natured alcohol is my non-melting solvent of choice. However just spraying it in there will do not good. I do not have room to get a cloth in there most of the way around.

Any suggestions on cleaning the gap so the caulk will stay stuck this time?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

Ok, for the forth time my stall is beign re-caulked. First time by factory when installed. Second by the factory, third and forth by me. The caulk keeps pulling away from one side or the other. This all in less than two years.

I have removed all the old caulk and cleaned as best I can. It is a relatively small gap and the only things I can think of to clean the gap further will disolve the shower stall. De-natured alcohol is my non-melting solvent of choice. However just spraying it in there will do not good. I do not have room to get a cloth in there most of the way around.

Any suggestions on cleaning the gap so the caulk will stay stuck this time?

If the sealer fails without towing the trailer, that's one problem.

If the sealer fails when you tow the trailer, then the problem more than likely is improperly balanced running gear, and/or a super heavy duty tow vehicle equipped with excessive rated torsion bars.

Airstream trailers love a soft ride. Anything that contributes towards a rough ride, will cause many different things to happen, since the shell would be forced to flex more than it's designed to normally handle.

Vibrations and road shock, unless they are minimized, contribute very heavily towards many different damages, up to and including frame and shell fatigue, water leaks, shearing of rivets and the like.

Andy

[PINKBIKE]

For what it is worth,some of the higher quality paint stores (as in not Sherwin Williams) will carry a brand of caulk that is called Big Stretch,its great stuff and as the name implies it stretches alot more then normal caulks ,and does'nt ever dry hard and brittle,Hope this helps

[Druupy]

Caulking is not designed to move, it is acrylic.
It is designed to be a CHEEP easy to use filler for stationary objects, (house).

The product type you would need is, "adhesive sealant."

And that is not silicone, or silicone 2.
Silicone will not adhere for an extended length of time.

Good quality adhesive sealants are usually xylene based and stink for days.
But they stick good, and stay flexible.

Silicone is co-hesive, it only sticks to itself,
and makes good low pressure gaskets.
But, requires some other mechanical fastern to stay in place.

Or, you could get some "gap filler." Backer rod is the correct term.
It is a foam rope, from 3/8" to 1" diameter. It fills the gap and leaves a convex surface.
So when you caulk the gap, the caulk takes on a concave shape,
which is the proper shape for a caulk of questionable adhesion.

[ScottW]

Michelle:
Which gap are you referring to?
thanx

[Alumatube]

Michelle - Do you know if your stall is properly shored up from underneath? It sounds like there might be movement of the stall itself, with or without movement of the whole trailer.

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by ScottW

Michelle:
Which gap are you referring to?
thanx

Sorry,
the one between the upper and lower stall halfs.

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by Alumatube

Michelle - Do you know if your stall is properly shored up from underneath? It sounds like there might be movement of the stall itself, with or without movement of the whole trailer.

I don't know I will have to break out the mirrow and flash light and have a look.

[thecatsandi]

25,000 miles in less than two years. It is underway.

[Aerowood]

Michelle have you consided using PRC or Proseal or is the color all wrong.

Kip

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by Aerowood

Michelle have you consided using PRC or Proseal or is the color all wrong.

Kip

Well that would work but the color is all wrong and this stuff stinks for weeks! I even have a proseal gun just to make it easy to install. One down side I would never get that stuff out if I needed to.

I am hitting the road in about a hour so I will be off line until tomorrow.

[Jim & Susan]

How about Vulkem? It seems to be the "Duck Tape" of the Airstream world and sticks to just about everything.

Jim

[Rollertoaster]

Hi Michelle,

You might try "Big Stretch" caulking. Water based, much easier to use than Vulkem or Sikaflex, several colors available.

Terry

[Jim in Pima]

Horrible stuff to use but butle rubber caulk stays like rubber for years, paint stores have it, as does Ace hardware

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

If the sealer fails without towing the trailer, that's one problem.

Nope it fails on the road.

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

If the sealer fails when you tow the trailer, then the problem more than likely is improperly balanced running gear, and/or a super heavy duty tow vehicle equipped with excessive rated torsion bars.

The running gear is balanced to my knowledge. I have a 06 F-250 with the tow package. for a 8680 lb trailer that should be fine. (made a trip to the scales today)

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Airstream trailers love a soft ride. Anything that contributes towards a rough ride, will cause many different things to happen, since the shell would be forced to flex more than it's designed to normally handle.

I am running the tires at 60 PSi which is appriate for a 9000 lbs ish trailer.