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Old 07-22-2015, 10:01 AM   #15
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When using my SS as a guest room it's plugged into a 20amp circuit. AC runs fine and has been doing this for 8 years in 100º+ temps.
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:04 AM   #16
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I was just through Oracle weekend before last. It was pretty hot....
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:23 AM   #17
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Sounds like I'm gonna be OK...the 20 amp breaker is seperate (nothing else running on it) and I won't have to use an extension cord. I'll just keep an eye on the temperature of the cord and plug. Thanks!
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:33 AM   #18
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What I will say is that I would use it.

I put a new outlet in my garage for my trailer. I could have wired in a 30 amp, I chose to wire in a 20 amp.
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:57 AM   #19
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If your compressor stalls on start up, unplug it before you let the smoke out. If the compressor don't like the electricity you are feeding it, it'll stall and fume and smoke about it. It don't care what others here are saying about it. Mine, likes 30 amps to start. Won't start on 20 amp. Doesn't matter if it would "run" on 20 amp if it won't start.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:49 AM   #20
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I'm currently stopped at courtesy parking for the hot day.
I have been using 20 amp service on and off for years. I'll intermittently use this to run the AC. My 24 year old Penguin 1 will start and run happily like this as long as the voltage stays above 105 volts. The key to success is the proper wire, and as few connections as possible. I clean the pins on all my cords with a dremel and brasso once a year.
I think the older units start and run easier than the newer units. For my dometic I also have installed an extreme duty start kit which is a much beefier starting cap. Any appliance ship can spec a good cap for you to replace yours. Money well spent!
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:34 PM   #21
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I have been full timing in my 2008 Bambi for 6 years. Texas heat, 13.5 AC. On a 20 amp using an adapter, No problems.
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:18 AM   #22
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Have been running my AC off a 20 amp circuit all summer with no problem. It is a dedicated circuit with only the AC and a other AS light running....
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:07 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxbuoy View Post
Start up is where the damage to the A/C is going to occur. The sell what is called hard start capacitors to replace the one currently installed. Basically it is a larger voltage storage device so when the compressor kicks in it gets the initial load from it vice dropping the current and doing damage. It then " recharges" while running at normal wattage draw.


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If the engineers that design the electrical systems of these A/C units felt that they required capacitors of different ratings, they would have called for them in the original designs.

Using ANY electrical device that deviates from the original specifications in a rated (UL or CE) appliance is not only asking for future problems, but will also de-rate the unit. In a new unit, it will void the warranty and in an older unit, should use of said appliance be the cause of a fire, you can be sure that the insurance company's fire inspectors will be looking very closely for any modifications like this to the appliance.

I have been involved in more than one instance of this and in each case, the unauthorized modifications that the owner performed on an appliance that was determined to be the cause of damage to the RV totally absolved the insurance company of any payment requirement.

JUST USE THE PROPER SIZE CABLES AND OUTLETS!!!!!! It's really very simple.
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:24 PM   #24
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You have pretty much answered what you have to look after within the trailer. Now look at his house.

When we say NOTHING ELSE we mean nothing else on that circuit. No clock in the bathroom or light in some remote room. After the AC has run for an hour or so feel the wires as the enter the panel box. If one is warm you are running above the limit.
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:48 PM   #25
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I did it before I knew it was an issue.

I read somewhere here that, if you going to use an AC with a 20 breaker, that you should turn it on full blast and leave it there, or turn it off.

You are not doing the unit any favors as the cycling off and ON is when the damage is done. Maybe leave a window open so the unit has to keep working. Maybe use open windows as a temp control if it gets a little to cold.

DISCLAIMER….I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN
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Old 07-23-2015, 02:09 PM   #26
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In general the starting function of any motor does more damage per unit time than running time. That is a fact but not one that should come into the consideration of running an AC unit, especially if you are going to run the unit at a 100% duty cycle by causing a fake load by leaving the windows open.

Most miss the fact that more than half of the function of an AC is to reduce the humidity level in a space. Leaving the windows open you will never achieve anything relating to comfort.

Smaller motors, the fan motor, that can be run at different speeds do this by putting a load resistor in series with the motor windings. That load resistor produces heat while slowing the fan motor. So under this consideration I would suggest running the fan at high speed, no useless heat, and let the AC cycle against the thermostat.
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:23 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NevadaGeo View Post
If your compressor stalls on start up, unplug it before you let the smoke out. If the compressor don't like the electricity you are feeding it, it'll stall and fume and smoke about it. It don't care what others here are saying about it. Mine, likes 30 amps to start. Won't start on 20 amp. Doesn't matter if it would "run" on 20 amp if it won't start.
Since the compressor is hermetically sealed with the motor totally inside the refrigeration shell it will not smoke. If it becomes overheated, the internal thermal cut off will open the circuit, and reset when it cools down. But no smoke.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:58 PM   #28
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I bet near everyones RV air conditioner runs on a 20 amp circuit breaker.....

The breaker in the trailer is 99% going to be 20 amp.
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