Bypassing Univolt

[mercury7]

Hi, I am restoring s 72 sovereign and am in the process of converting to all electric ... Do I am looking at the univolt with all its spaghetti and was wondering if anyone had suggestions to start straight wiring all of it.... I am very unfsmiliar with all the colors ... Just want it all straight wired so all the auxiliary light inside the trailer work straight from the fuse box

[RickDavis]

Originally Posted by mercury7

Hi, I am restoring s 72 sovereign and am in the process of converting to all electric ... Do I am looking at the univolt with all its spaghetti and was wondering if anyone had suggestions to start straight wiring all of it.... I am very unfsmiliar with all the colors ... Just want it all straight wired so all the auxiliary light inside the trailer work straight from the fuse box

All the lighting in the trailer operates on 12 volts along with other accessories like fans etc. You need the Univolt or other 12 volt supply to provide this voltaqe. If you are refering to the 110 volt fuse breaker panel you would have to change everything to 110 volts.

The purpose of all this stuff running on 12 volts is so you can operate off batteries when away from 120 volt power

[DKB_SATX]

OK, stop.

Currently all of your interior lighting is 12v unless some previous owner has modified your trailer. All of the wiring to those fixtures is chosen for 12v systems. You can (and probably should) replace the Univolt with a modern converter-charger to provide 12v power and charge your battery, but you can't just bypass it without taking other action.

If your '72 is like my '75 Argosy was, you'll need to buy a 12v fuse block because your current fuses are integrated with the boat anchor...er... Univolt. There should only be a few 12V circuits, it probably just looks worse than it is because people have hacked into the wiring over time for one purpose or another.

Are you going all-electric to park the trailer somewhere as a cabin or guest room? Or are you going all-electric but planning to travel and just don't like propane? If you're going to be traveling, there are lots of advantages to having the propane systems.

[mercury7]

Thank you very much.... I obviously was thinking wrong that the univolt was converting 12v to 110 instead of the othere way around.... My thought was to have everything 110 and not use batteries at all.... Although I was told the univolt was alive... After reconnecting the electrical that had been cut up to remove the bathroom I do not think it works.... So what is the cheapest converter I can but.... We seem to only be talking about the lighting over the beds etc and the control panel upfront has a 1972 'motorolla 8 track player that must be dc lol

As far as propane goes... I will have to hire some one to cap the lines to the fridge and hot water heater just to see if the magic chef oven and stove top still work... Of they work I will keep them but if there are issues I will probably convert

I do not plan on taking this unit anywhere that does not have hook ups.

[mercury7]

Btw... Before I give up on the univolt... Is there any reason why it would not hum when powered ..... Such as would the absence of a battery keep it from starting?

[DKB_SATX]

The hum is not a necessary part of its operation, just a common one when they get old. I don't think that the presence of a battery is necessary to start a Univolt, but the battery is necessary for stable voltage as well as a power source for the breakaway switch for the brakes when towing.

A modern converter is available for about $150, lighter, more efficient, and more reliable. Also, a modern converter does not require the battery for stable voltage. However the breakaway switch still requires a battery in the system to function.

[mercury7]

Ok, thank you.... I suppose I'll keep the system intact then and just plan on a new converter and battery .... Any model everyone has been happy with? Basic is fine .... It's taking most my funds finding a tow vehicle and buying new tires lol... I literally put the cart before the horse

[DKB_SATX]

There is a long-term cost to buying the cheapest one you can get... a 3- or 4-stage charger will take much better care of your battery, so you won't have to replace the battery as often.

I bought this 45-amp Powermax converter from a Forums advertiser called BestConverter and have been happy with it. You can get a dumb converter that's not much better than the Univolt for about $120 from other sources, but you'll probably save the $25 difference in the longer life of your first battery if you leave the trailer plugged in a lot. The same vendor I mentioned also carries Progressive Dynamics and Iota converters, and everyone seems happy with those. They cost a bit more but are on sale from time to time.

[mercury7]

Originally Posted by DKB_SATX

There is a long-term cost to buying the cheapest one you can get... a 3- or 4-stage charger will take much better care of your battery, so you won't have to replace the battery as often.

I bought this 45-amp Powermax converter from a Forums advertiser called BestConverter and have been happy with it. You can get a dumb converter that's not much better than the Univolt for about $120 from other sources, but you'll probably save the $25 difference in the longer life of your first battery if you leave the trailer plugged in a lot. The same vendor I mentioned also carries Progressive Dynamics and Iota converters, and everyone seems happy with those. They cost a bit more but are on sale from time to time.

Ok thanks... I saw the progressive dynamics one on amazon for 150 or so.... I'll put it on the list

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by mercury7

Ok thanks... I saw the progressive dynamics one on amazon for 150 or so.... I'll put it on the list

Do note which Progressive Dynamics converter is offered at that price. The 9100 series requires an optional dongle for the "charge wizard" functionality, and the 9200 series has it built in already.

[mercury7]

I checked it was the 9200 series..., prices change daily on amazon though... They have a 45amp now for 135 and the 60 amp one is 175

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by mercury7

I checked it was the 9200 series..., prices change daily on amazon though... They have a 45amp now for 135 and the 60 amp one is 175

9245 will do all you need.

[mercury7]

Just an update... Ordered the 9245, should be here Saturday, took s chance on an open box one at amazon for 117 so hopefully that will work good

[mercury7]

Ok... So I need help.... I got the 9245... So it looks like I have a ac plug and then an out put I guess going out to the battery .... Now looking at the univolt panel, it has a large blue wire coming in from the left and then 4 different colored wires on the right... Do I just twist all those together?

I hate electricity and need a step by step... There are also two other wires on the univol on the bottom of the panel that says anemeter

[mercury7]

[mercury7]

Ok so we have 8 wires to do something with

Left side thick blue

Then right side
In order
Purple
Yellow
Pink
Brown

Then a thick white
Then a black and red labeled snnemeter

[mercury7]

While waiting for a response I've been trying to read and it would seem I am suppose to salvage the univolt fuse panel and run the intellipower to it

[mercury7]

One more thing.... A little confused on the thick blue wire attached to the fuse panel says car battery.... Why would you need/want that hooked up