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Old 03-19-2016, 11:16 AM   #15
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There is an odoer killer used on homes after a fire. Some paint stores might sell it.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:16 AM   #16
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Ditto to Phoenix's cautions about the Hanta Virus. When you inspect the trailer, recommend that you do not move/disturb anything inside the trailer, as stirring up the dust/droppings/etc. can actually release the virus into the air. If you must move things, see the cdc link given earlier and arrive with spray bottles with the recommended bleach solution to spray on anything you want to lift or move.

Serious stuff . . .

Be safe -- respirators -- the whole 9 yards.

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Old 03-19-2016, 11:20 AM   #17
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http://www.cdc.gov/hantavirus/

Here is a link to CDC about Hanaviris, I know it can be dangerous because in Yosemite Valley numerous campers caught and some died. These campers stayed in Tent Cabins and the mice had made nests in between the double canvas walls. I hope something here will help you to make your dream come true but make sure you do it safely. Happy travels.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:33 AM   #18
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I would walk away from this, but the following may be of interest to you:
http://longlonghoneymoon.com/2016/01...-out-of-an-rv/
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:35 AM   #19
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Definitely proceed with caution. We have issues with Pack Rats here and they can be extremely destructive. Removal of their remains would require removing the pan and some interior walls. Also, a trailer that has sat forever will need new axles.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:16 PM   #20
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Just to add on to what others have said, rats chew on wiring, so that could be a real problem. If the price is right, and you could manage a big project it might be worth it!

Other things to look out for it was not kept up would be floor rot. It happens right next to the walls from water dripping in.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:18 PM   #21
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If the Mice have been in the walls there will be dead ones that stink for a long time. Generally they can't migrate too fa through the walls due to ribs but they are pretty good at getting through holes smaller than a penny. If it is just mice in the living areas they will leave when there is no more food, so just clean up thoroughly and park it where Mice don't want to stick around...like a clean paved parking area. Mice always left my trailer (parked in a Barn for winter storage) when there was no more food. But the can re-purpose things like Oat-filled microwave neck warmers in to both food and nesting so think about everything they might want to use. Clean out all toilet and Kleenex paper...nesting materials. When they are gone start looking for the openings where mice can get in...there are other threads on Mice in the forum that cover this pretty well.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:28 PM   #22
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I had a few "visitors" in my classic cars a few years ago and a fellow collector suggested using peppermint oil as mice don't like the smell. However, I liked the smell and the fact that my "visitors" didn't and left. Have to experiment with the amount you use but a little bit goes a long way. I put it in places mice liked to hide on bits of cloth and I realize that this wouldn't help the between the walls areas, but it might be worth a shot. I've also heard that mice don't like to travel so maybe towng the rig might shake them up enough to leave as well. There are a lot of TTs for sale out there, so I'd think long/hard before I jumped at this unit. Good luck!!!
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:48 PM   #23
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Wiring, etc.

As someone previously mentioned, mice like to eat wire insulation. They suggested testing the electrical systems, but that isn't enough. Before we got our AS, we owned a summer camp. The mice had gotten into the fuse box - way into the inside where the wires all run to the breakers. One day my husband had reason to open up that part of the box and found all the wires bare and the whole box packed with mouse nesting and droppings (think nitrogen). One slight movement that caused the wrong wires to touch could have cause the whole box to turn into a bomb! That is assuming there was enough air left in there for an explosion to happen. . .

Anyway, the wires can be bare and still work, it's just that they are dangerous after they are bare. So expect to have to rewire the whole thing even if everything works. You will never know the condition of the wires you can't see.

Also, mice have no bladder control, so they pee a little bit everywhere they travel. Good luck cleaning that up inside the walls, etc! Personally, I'd walk away from this "deal."
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:43 PM   #24
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If the thing has had mice long enough to develop a smell, that is a very severe infestation. Even if you did get rid of them the smell would stay. Some people think the smell goes away, but it's only that they got used to the smell. DON'T BUY IT. Just walk away.
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sallye View Post
. . .
Personally, I'd walk away from this "deal."
Good points about the wire insulation. BTW -- I noticed your 20' FC, do you know there is a thread here for the 20-footers?

20-footers

Cheers,

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Old 03-19-2016, 03:49 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahab View Post
Put a rattlesnake in there and shut the door. Wait a week or so and open the door to let him out. No more rodents.
Any snake eats only one or two mice a week at most. Definitely you need a couple bags of rattlesnakes, maybe five bags. I'd need an exact head count, drop the bags in, wait a couple months, and then send you in after them. Don't forget to take a count as you remove them. You can come out after you have found all the rattlesnakes.
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:33 PM   #27
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Hm. Have you thought of high explosives?
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:01 PM   #28
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While hibernating snakes also stink......throw the snakes in the door and run away from there.....I have seen campers where mice have taken over...
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