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Old 07-05-2016, 11:57 AM   #1
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2007 23' International CCD
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Bumper removal

how do I remove the four screws that are entirely rusted that hold the bumper on the rear frame?
C. James
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:54 PM   #2
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1967 17' Caravel
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Grinder?
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Old 07-05-2016, 05:57 PM   #3
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Center punch and drill them out, if you didn't like the grinder idea.

Then use stainless next time.
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:35 PM   #4
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1980 20' Caravelle
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They are buggers

C James, I am struggling with these bolts too. So far I have tried:

  1. PB Blaster...stinks and did not work
  2. Impact screwdriver
  3. Drilling out (it is hard metal and takes forever...cannot envision doing this 4 times)...maybe I don't have the right drill or bit.
  4. Alternating w/torch and dry ice...read about this on a forum.
I have ordered a can of Kroil, as many have raved that it works wonders. I can't imagine using the grinder without doing a lot of damage to the bumper.

Pls let us know if you find a method that works. Thanks, L
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Old 07-06-2016, 01:17 PM   #5
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A trick I used on the upper shock absorber bolts is to use a pencil torch (like you use for your crack pipe) to heat the nut but not the bolt.

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Old 07-06-2016, 01:52 PM   #6
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1974 25' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccjames View Post
how do I remove the four screws that are entirely rusted that hold the bumper on the rear frame?
C. James
On our '74 the upper screws were (still) the countersunk type, the lowers were hex head... so the lowers came out relatively easily after a shot of penetrating oil. The upper countersunk slot-head screws were stuck tight. On one side I was able to use a handheld impact driver (with a wrench on the nut), and on the other I had not much choice except to drill it out. I started with a 1/8 inch bit (you should already have lots of those for popping rivets), drilled in about 1/4 inch, and then switched to a 5/16 inch bit to basically pop the remains of the head off the shank of the bolt. When doing this it's a good idea to grip the nut side with vise grips.

The next level solution would have been "angle grinder". But, that would have been tricky from the inside, given the proximity of the frame channel.
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Old 07-10-2016, 05:54 PM   #7
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If you can get to the nuts, use a Dremel (or one of its clones) with an abrasive cutting wheel to cut one side off each of the nuts, all the way down to the bolt threads. That'll make a world of difference in how easily the bolts unscrew afterwards.

If you have better access than that, use a NutCracker on each nut. Neat tool, but keep its screw lubed or it'll make you crazy. It's built like a hooked index finger (the anvil) and a thumb (the cutter). As you screw in the screw at the rear (in the "wrist"), the cutter advances into the crook of the "finger" and cuts the nut. Don't scoff, they work well - mine has gotten me out of several tough spots. You may possibly need to cut each nut twice so it falls apart.

A torch also works well, provided that you heat only the nut and not the bolt. Get it good & hot, then pull the torch away and shoot WD-40 on the bolt threads. That cools down the bolt and gets some small amount of oil into the nut threads (besides generating a bunch of smoke).
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