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Old 08-11-2014, 09:28 PM   #15
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Smile stabilizer jack handle

Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
I bought a socket that fits (3/4" IIRC) and chuck it into a cordless drill with an extension that has the female end sawn off.
I use adapter with 1/4 3/8 or 1/2 square end hex other end to fit sockets, use in cordless drill [lazy] to crank stabilizers. You can pur. set of 3 or indv. adapter so no need to saw off end. Been doing this for yrs. on bolts saves a lot of time and work.

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Old 08-12-2014, 05:48 AM   #16
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Ahh, Ssquared, now I understand. My "solution" does not apply in your case. The sleeves on my particular unit are made of plastic and the one in the middle must have been installed when the metal was first bent into shape. If the middle one were to break off, I don't think I could replace it. I do think that the wrench is still quite usable without those sleeves, just don't grip it very hard.

I always wear leather workers gloves when hitching and unhitching. This protects my tender "office worker hands" from dirt, scrapes and bumps. Perhaps that would solve your concerns?

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Old 08-12-2014, 05:52 AM   #17
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On the subject of using a cordless drill to set up the stabilizers, I thought that this might be a useful thing and went so far as to buy the socket to do this. But in my experience, the hand wrench supplied with the AS is quicker than the time it takes to find the drill, put in the socket and then use the tool (not to mention finding the charge in the drill to be insufficient often enough to be annoying.) By the time I would have done that, I can have all four stabilizer jacks down with the manual method.

But, the drill approach does offer another legitimate approach to this is you find it easier so I would suggest that you consider it. You will still need a manual back up in case something goes wrong with the drill however.
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Old 08-12-2014, 06:02 AM   #18
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We use a cordless drill, also. We have one we just leave in the trailer with the socket attached. Quick and easy.
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:58 PM   #19
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Here are three pictures I took today.

The first shows the wrench, with the now-loose sleeve next to where it belongs.
The second is the end of the wrench, showing a small hole drilled through the shaft.
The third is the end of the sleeve, where you can see a groove inside.

So there must have been some kind of pin that ran through the hole, and gripped the groove. I don't know if it was a solid pin, or a spring pin, like what wristwatches often use to attach the band.

Looking at the BAL web site, this wrench appears to be the "Deluxe Hex Head Crank Handle" model 20032. I don't see any repair parts for it on the BAL web site.

Anybody know where I can get a spring pin of this size?
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Old 08-13-2014, 03:54 AM   #20
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would a cap nut work on the end of the handle?
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Old 08-13-2014, 05:07 AM   #21
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Gloves! Saves your hands and look like you are really working! Even if you get it fixed, gloves are cool. Jim
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:28 AM   #22
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There's an easy replacement available if you want to go that route. Sears tool department sells a "speed handle" for their socket wrench sets that looks exactly like that tool, except it has a 3/8" square drive on the business end. Get that with the appropriate sized socket.
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:02 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by SSquared View Post
Anybody know where I can get a spring pin of this size?
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Old 04-17-2015, 08:26 PM   #24
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Take your crank and "sleeve" to any standard hardware store and tell them you need a "roll pin" which will fit into the hole. A flat washer between the "sleeve" and the roll pin will save your tender hands from the roll pin (since you seem reluctant to use gloves.)
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Old 04-17-2015, 08:44 PM   #25
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I got a length of ⅛" steel rod and cut off a piece about " long. I shoved the piece into the hole in the shaft of the Airstream supplied speed wrench where there's a spinning sleeve for the user's hand. The hole has a spring in it to push the wire out into the internal groove in that handle sleeve. A little light oil on the repaired assembly and I was back in business.

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