Broken brake wires.

[BayouBiker]

The AS wiring diagram shows 12 gauge for chassis wiring. The pig tails are dexter and I don't know what they are, perhaps 16 as suggested.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

I know this is an old thread but I just noticed a broken brake wire on one of my tires. I was going to add conduit around all 4 brake wires after I repair this one. With regard to this one;

After I strip the damage one down I may need extra wire. Does anyone know the size electrical wire used in case I need more?

Also, any suggestions regarding the black connecting area where the wire broke? Once I take the tire off and gain access I was wondering if this black stuff can be stripped. Looks like it may be liquid electrical tape possibly covering a butt connector? If so, then i'll just cut the wire before that area, strip down and re-connect?

12 ga wire for electric brakes
14 ga wire for brake lights

For the reconnections I use crimp type butt connectors.
Though, I've seen other people use wire nuts and I know of one very good Airstream mechanic (Terry) that recommended wire nuts on a post somewhere this forum. The logic behind wire nuts is that connection will come loose instead of breaking the wire if it catches on road debris, maybe prevent damaging the magnet.

It's a common problem on my 34'. Fixed 2 the last time I raised my trailer. Though, not one has broken on my 25'.

[HiHoAgRV]

I’ve been using butt splice crimp joints covered with extra long pieces of shrink tube that contains melt sealer. The long shrink tube helps give a strain relief on each side of the crimp. Of course all bets are off if road debris grabs a wire

[GOUSC]

Thanks for all the prompt replies. Sounds like the best preventive maintenance is to fix all 4. I have a boat and have used the heat shrink butt connectors there so will definitely use here. Had never heard of the heat shrink tube so that's a great idea as well. I had read where Lewster also recommended twisting and folder the smaller gauge wire in half to secure it in the larger butt connector end so I plan to do that.

I will also jack up and remove the tires to get better access. I have some ramps that I have used in the past that fit under the RV. I can put one ramp under each side to raise either the front or the back. That way I can get 2 tires off at a time. Then repeat the process on the other side.

Can anyone recommend a good heat gun to use for the money as I have always just used campfire lighters in the past.

[BayouBiker]

Since you won't often use a heat gun, get a cheap one from Harbor Freight. It's a great place to get infrequently used tools. got one years ago and its going strong.

[RTOS_LLC]

I am finalizing initial diagnostic functionality on Electric Anti-Lock Braking System controller. Since each brake magnet has separate control I detect shorts, opens, enable monitoring current flow to each brake magnet and so forth. Any detected fault is indicated "while it exists" and is cleared "when it is gone". On intermittent faults you would "have to see fault code" when it exists, which I perceive is a problem. I have debated using "some remaining" non memory space to provide a short fault code history where when a fault is detected that is "not in the list" it would be added. Customer could clear history list once viewed. Any suggestions on what may be better, or desired?

[kittmaster]

Originally Posted by RTOS_LLC

I am finalizing initial diagnostic functionality on Electric Anti-Lock Braking System controller. Since each brake magnet has separate control I detect shorts, opens, enable monitoring current flow to each brake magnet and so forth. Any detected fault is indicated "while it exists" and is cleared "when it is gone". On intermittent faults you would "have to see fault code" when it exists, which I perceive is a problem. I have debated using "some remaining" non memory space to provide a short fault code history where when a fault is detected that is "not in the list" it would be added. Customer could clear history list once viewed. Any suggestions on what may be better, or desired?

Nobody wants to see a code or decode a matrix, there should be a display that shows specifically what wheel(s) has the issue(s) and its user readable error code of the error detected. It should be clear and concise without having to whip out a manual to understand why the dummy light is on......no one has time for that mess when they are on the side of the road and emotions run high stuck in the middle of nowhere or busy traffic arteries. JMHO.

[putback]

Napa sells trailer break wire by the foot. Two #12 stranded copper insulated wires sheathed. Locally can also get twist wire conectors with a copper coil, takes care of galvanic corrosion. You can seal them water [& salt] tight with liquid tape. Once the stranded wire shows corrosion, black, at the connection its likely gone feet upstream, won't solder well and will continue to deteriorate.