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Old 01-16-2009, 05:16 AM   #1
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1975 31' Excella 500
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blocking trailer

Can anyone tell me a good placement for blocking up an AS prior to pulling off the panels (I will need to replace 4-6 on the rear both inside and out)
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Old 01-16-2009, 05:58 AM   #2
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Not sure

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blocking up an AS prior to pulling off the panels
I'm not sure what you mean. Are you talking about blocks to get it off the ground?
Dan
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:14 AM   #3
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blocking trailer

yes that is exactly what i mean. i was told that poor blocking would lead to the frame sagging and shifting during repairs and prevent the rivet holes from matrching ( sorry, lesson learned, no posting before coffee)
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:33 AM   #4
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My suggestion is to block the trailer where the weight is presently resting. Get some good jack stands and supprot the rear by supporting the axle mounting plates (not the axle) and the tongue about 2 ft behind the ball on both sides. This will keep it in the same configuration and allow removal of wheels for storage, etc. Don't comprimise by using block or other unstable materials as it could be dangerous and damage the trailer.
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Old 01-16-2009, 08:22 AM   #5
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Can anyone tell me a good placement for blocking up an AS prior to pulling off the panels (I will need to replace 4-6 on the rear both inside and out)
Place jack stands under the A-frame, between the wheels and under the frame just forward of the bumper.

Lifting should not be done. Stabilizing is the "must".

Andy
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:22 AM   #6
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If it was my trailer I would go to a junkyard and buy a whole bunch of jacks. Either the bottle jack style used in American pickup trucks or the scissor jack style.

Hydraulic jacks are not recommended because they can lose pressure and drop over time.

Then I would put blocks under the frame and set the jacks on the blocks, spacing them about 4 feet apart. Then carefully jack up the trailer, checking that the frame is straight, level and all the jacks have an even pressure.

You can get extremely accurate laser levels now for a reasonable price.

I would also measure longways, widthways and diagonally to known datum points and record the measurements. That way you can check later and see that the frame is still level and true as it was when you started.

It seems like a lot of work but it pays off in the end to be sure there is no mistake or misalignment.

This is basically the same method I have used successfully in doing auto body repairs, including major panel replacements. On a unit body car it is necessary to get the body true within 1/8 inch for the doors and all panels to fit properly. Using this method I could get them within 1/16 inch.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:42 AM   #7
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Can anyone tell me a good placement for blocking up an AS prior to pulling off the panels (I will need to replace 4-6 on the rear both inside and out)
WOW! 4-6 panels? Are they the end caps?

We just replaced our entire streetside panel (both inside & out) on our '56 Safari and the outside streetside panel on our '64 GlobeTrotter and a friend's '64 GlobeTrotter (see link above starting about Post #227) - sounds like you are in for a big project! We didn't have any troubles with rivets lining up - we used the old panels for the patterns and used clecos when we went to put it all back together - no special blocking, just stabilizing jacks to keep everything level. We did put 3/4" blocking between the frame & the c-channel at every outrigger though when all the panels & floor were out...

Shari
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Old 01-16-2009, 02:51 PM   #8
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I'm with Andy on this one. My 24 is sitting on jackstands. 2 right behind the wheels on the axle mounting plates and 2 just behind the A - frame. I used blocks of wood between the jack stand and the trailer frame and 2x6 pressure treated board pieces under the jackstands to keep them from digging in to the asphalt.
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Old 01-16-2009, 03:01 PM   #9
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i like Ike

Yes they would be the end caps( i'm still new to the terminology) top and either side over the rear
the trailer was clipped by a branch when a rather massive pine tree fell during hurricane ike. I just bought it from the PO for 1K and will need to replace the panels and a few ribs,everything else seems to be in workable order.
i have little doubt that i am biting off more than i can chew,but thats ok, everybody tells me that i have a big mouth.
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