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Old 02-01-2009, 10:32 AM   #15
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I will chime in here..(can't keep my mouth shut)
The ultrasound device is something that's quite possible someone in your area has..I will tell you that it's not cheap to buy for your own toolbox..(1500$) But OMG, it works better than snake oil..The insurance route is something I personally would save for Major accidents etc..If you find out you have coverage..YOU will have alot of folks lined up to switch insurances company and, sign papers..lol
I would strongly suggest that the TV ant be double checked, since you said it had been changed..as a matter of policy..
I am still thinking..since you said refrig wall..You should find two vent opening up there and...there must be a grey water vent located near the refrig vent area that could be causing this.
Too bad you are not located closer..the test would be interesting...Good luck to you~
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Old 02-01-2009, 05:51 PM   #16
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Two days non stop sealing the roof!

vlamica - did you have to remove any old sealant before re-sealing on top of your trailer? Did you address any of the areas where the seams meet on the skin or just all of the vents, around AC, etc? What type of sealer did you use?


Hi,

Just came in from outside. We have been experiencing spring like weather here in California so i took the opportunity to reseal the entire roof. last weekend i washed the entire roof with a mild detergent. This weekend it was clean and dry. I used a wire brush to remove any loose weatherstripping from the last application. Some of it had to be scraped but if i found that it was stuck on pretty well i left it alone. I then vacuumed all the extra stuff up and used a light brush to make is clean again. I used "Kool seal" to do the work on the roof. I like the way this stuff dries and matches the roof. I removed both of my skylights and washed them up nice. I cleaned the sealing area good and applied kool seal between. I had to drill a few new holes to install the small screws that hold down the the covers. I sealed the the upper edge of the skylight with sealer. no leaks coming from there. I sealed the fantastic vents, the two vents from the bathroom, the vent for the fridge, around the base of the tv antenna, around the satelite antenna, around the base of the a/c unit and finally along the roof rails. Im exhausted! Took two days and one gallon of the sealer. It goes along way but there is alot to do up there! I will try to post some pics. Good luck

Vinnie
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:15 PM   #17
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A few pics from this weekend

I used that blue tape to create nice clean lines and removed the tape before the sealant dried.
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:31 PM   #18
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Wow Vinnie
What a clean roof....Nice job!
Come down and do mine next!
Dennis
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:48 PM   #19
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Bring it over.. we will knock it out in a weekend.. but today im too sore to think about it..

Vin
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:08 PM   #20
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Hello Vinnie,
Thanks for the pictures showing what you have done on the top of your trailer and explanation, does that Cool Seal come in a grey color? Our roof is silver/aluminum, where do you buy the stuff? A really important question too, how do you climb up on the roof and then move around to do all that work and still be careful to not push the roof In? We will do exactly what you have done to make sure we don't have any further leaking from the roof if that is where some of the water is coming from, I'll bet previous owners probably didn't do anything up on our roof so it is past time to start this up and keep it going from year to year.

Have you ever sealed the areas where the skin on top overlaps each other?

I'll bet you are sore from all of that work!!! As I sit at my computer, my back and arms are starting to stiffen up. We removed our rear twin beds and took up all of the carpet in the rear of the trailer, took the couch and carpet out of the front yesterday... the inside of the trailer is starting to look like some of the reno's I have seen on this site. My hope is that we can seal everything up, let the inside dry out and then lay down new carpeting, etc, don't really want to have to replace the floor at this point, especially if we can prevent any additional leaking by routine maintenance.
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:24 PM   #21
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Hi there,

I just added a link for Kool seal koolseal.com: Aluminum Roof Coatings

Not sure about the different colors. Im sure is says in there someplace. I was reading in here that if you stay on the ribs of the roof you will be ok. I weigh in about 190 so not huge but i can make a dent if i was to lean with my elbo on a soft spot. i was very careful of this while i was up there. I basically had my free standing ladder next to the trailer and i took a 2x6 board and placed it on the side rail on each side of the trailer. I used this to kneel on so i could be up there. I placed a few towels on it so it didnt hurt my knees so bad. I worked on each side from there and only had to reach into the middle. When finished with one side i then removed the board and sealed that sides drip rail. Then off to the other side to do the same process. I have to say that when you get up onto the board from the ladder you MUST get off the trailer in the same manner so you dont end up tipping the ladder away from the trailer and falling. I just did lots of slow movements and my wife came out several times to check on me.. What a good wife!

I hope that it can all dry out for you so you dont have to replace any flooring. I had a few spots that showed staining but nothing really. I used a little bit of this resin in those places just for future problems down the road. Wood preservation, rot repair, and restoration using epoxy resin on boats and homes.
Check it out. Might be an easy solution for you.

Vinnie
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:25 PM   #22
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PS. Im told we dont need to worry about the seams with the rivits. They should be fine unless there is damage or missing rivits. I left that area alone.

Vin
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Old 02-02-2009, 07:15 AM   #23
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PS. Im told we dont need to worry about the seams with the rivits. They should be fine unless there is damage or missing rivits. I left that area alone.

Vin
Besides missing or loose rivets, also look for any gaps between the overlapping sheets. With expansion and contraction of a gap may appear that will need to be sealed.

Sometimes I think we all may have loose or missing rivets.
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Old 02-02-2009, 09:01 AM   #24
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Just so you have the terminology right when/if you go to replace sections of the sub-floor, what you have is OSB (oriented strand board). Particle board is much denser and heavier, used most often in cheap cabinetry, partitions, sub-countertops, etc. You could also use plywood- it tends to come in more thicknesses and you might be better able to match the thickness of the existing OSB that you are leaving in. Good luck with all this!
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Old 02-02-2009, 01:30 PM   #25
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Just so you have the terminology right when/if you go to replace sections of the sub-floor, what you have is OSB (oriented strand board). Particle board is much denser and heavier, used most often in cheap cabinetry, partitions, sub-countertops, etc. You could also use plywood- it tends to come in more thicknesses and you might be better able to match the thickness of the existing OSB that you are leaving in. Good luck with all this!
Tphan is absolutely correct. I mistakenly refrerred to the subfloor material as "particle board" when it is really OSB. I believe it is also referred to as flakeboard.
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Old 02-08-2009, 10:31 AM   #26
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As for the leak under the fridge, looks like the wheel well seal has failed to the front of your tires. Same as ours did to the rear. Floor needs to be replaced. That is work... The smaller areas, you certainly want to fix the leak. But you may be able to save the floor in that area. We had a similar small area of discolored wood and softening under the front window. I made a diluted wood glue solution and poored onto the area letting it soak into the wood. This solidified the wood in place. Fine for a small area. Not so good for under the fridge.

As for the small spot under the side window, there is a break in the U channel, which attaches to the seam at the base of the wall. Ours had the same issue. Same spot. The problem is that once water gets into the U channel it can travel around until it finds a spot to escape. Our source was the seam at the top of large front window. There are two sealants used on the windows. There is a real sticky seal b/t the window frame and the trailer. There is another which they put over it and around the window frame. THis is the grey outer sealant you see. It is easily removed with a sharp chizzle. Be careful not to scratch or gouge the aluminium... I put tape down to protect the skin... replace seal around the windows with the recommended sealant.

Our toilet base was made of particle wood. (stuff should be outlawed) When I removed it I found black mold had grown in the carpet and on the wood under the toilet.

I know it is tempting to throw down some shiny hard wood and put a sale sign in the window. But stick with it and you will be a happy camper...

Our e-mail is sheatlie@comcast.net. Be happy to send you some photos of our project as you requested...
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Old 02-08-2009, 04:35 PM   #27
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I had the skylights replaced due to cracks. The dealer offered a "reseal" of all the roof vents etc. for around $500. Took off the old caulk and replaced with new. I thought that as long as they were going to be up there, and given the enormous time it would take me, and knowing the nightmares a leak can cause, that this was a reasonable investment. The AS is now stored out of the Florida sun and rain, so I am hoping the roof will maintain for years to come.

Tom
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Old 02-08-2009, 07:25 PM   #28
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I hope you soon find the source of water entry and solve your problem. Some seem to think your floor in particle board. Just looking at the picture I can tell it isn't particle board but OSB (oriented stress board). I think that's what it is at least. It's much stronger than particle board and water doesn't ruin it as quickly.
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