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Old 04-04-2016, 08:10 PM   #21
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Tire companies are not all competent. Many will do thousands of dollars of damage to your unit, if you do not properly supervise them. Use the ramps or stair-step leveling blocks to be safe. Do not let them use their air wrenches to tighten your lug nuts.
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:13 PM   #22
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Thumbs up

Never realized I was so rong......for so long


Thank You...

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Old 04-04-2016, 09:09 PM   #23
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Noted -- front OEM trailer motorized tongue jack on the ground, and no new jacks between it and the front tires. With superior knowledge of Airstream structure and suspensions, clearly you know where to put jack stands safely, so the tires can be removed entirely. Newcomers may not have your level of knowledge. When in doubt, follow the owner's manual IMO.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:12 AM   #24
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No matter who it is, I don't trust a jack on my AS, and I have used this product many times and it works flawlessly.

http://www.genuinehotrod.com/itemgroup/trailer-aid
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:20 AM   #25
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I use Trailer Aid ramps on both sides.
Back the rear tires up onto the ramps.
Change the front wheels.
Drive the front tires onto the ramps.
Change the back tires.
Seems like less work and safer than a floor jack to me-
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:23 AM   #26
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Why not just use the ramp method at home and do it yourself. It is entirely safe, real easy, and lets you get familiar with the process should you ever have a trailer flat out on the road.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:50 AM   #27
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When I had my Casita I had new tires installed and the techs wanted to jack the trailer up from the Dexter axles. Luckily I was supervising but they gave me an argument before they complied. Never trust a tire tech who listens to grudge music in the background.

The company that installed my Michelins on the Airstream jack it up in the same manner as Robert showed.

For me it appears the ramp method is the safest and easiest.

Kelvin
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:29 PM   #28
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Wow...I wonder, if the belly pan is missing, maybe the jack point plates and labels are missing too
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
So now what? What's it going to cost to have it replaced? Jeez!
There is no belly pan under the water tank, and you did in fact find the acceptable jack points. Most older units do not have a "jack " label. I always jack under the steel frame member that holds the axles, just behind or in front of the wheel I want to remove. Just be sure to get it centered and if need be put a hardwood block in top of the jack, as some jacks may dent or bend the frame member if not accurately lined up. Also chock the opposite side wheels so the trailer won't roll or twist of the jack. As noted, you can pull one wheel off the ground with blocks under the adjacent wheel. I usually pull up on about two or 3 inches of block to take the pressure of the wheel I want to remove. That way the wheel is still on the ground to break the stud nuts and then raise it the rest of the way with the jack. Reverse to drop the wheel after installation so you can tighten the nuts and then pull off the blocks.
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:17 PM   #30
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I have stated on forums many times, I will not jack up a tandem axle trailer of any kind nor use jack stands as they can and will slip. I have heavy duty truck stands and they have slipped. For safety I will only use ramps, wheels properly blocked. Blocks on stands in my opinion makes them unstable. Some one stated doesn't trust ramps only jacks. I hope he isn't under trailer if slips, if any one has worked is safety will tell you jacks can and do slip.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaLevel View Post
We have the same model Joe. If you look underneath near the stabilizer jacks in the back you should see the "Jack" with an arrow pointing to the jacking point. Look at this video. At 9:20 into it Patrick points it out:

THANK YOU, the video answers my issue!
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:50 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirstreamJim View Post
I'm thinking it would be a one-of-a-kind Airstream if it didn't. I'll be calling JC tomorrow to ask, but I'm sure I know the answer.

Even though I bought it through a dealer (consignment sale), I've had contact with the PO. I just emailed him to ask whether the belly pan was in place when he bought the trailer.

This has me...perturbed.

Jim
An understandable state of mind!

Wondering Jim if JC or the PO gave you any satisfaction on this? Or maybe the dealer . . .

Thanks,

Peter
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:52 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Mrjkq View Post
THANK YOU, the video answers my issue!
Wondering if you also saw the pages referenced earlier in your owner's manual?
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:04 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Wondering Jim if JC or the PO gave you any satisfaction on this? Or maybe the dealer . . .
Let's call it a case of "ready...fire...aim" and leave it at that.

Jim
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:00 AM   #35
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Sorry 'bout that . . . groan . . .

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Old 04-06-2016, 09:20 AM   #36
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When I jack the trailer I have it hitched. The tow vehicle makes a pretty good chock.
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:43 AM   #37
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Anderson rapid jack - works like a charm....

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Old 01-30-2018, 05:22 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I use Trailer Aid ramps on both sides.
Back the rear tires up onto the ramps.
Change the front wheels.
Drive the front tires onto the ramps.
Change the back tires.
Seems like less work and safer than a floor jack to me-
Now, why didn't I think of that? A Trailer Aid is cheaper than jack stands, when getting two wheels off.
I was fixated on changing the left two then the right two.
Brilliant!
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Old 01-30-2018, 06:46 PM   #39
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So this was probably covered and I read through twice but. My tire store is an hour away and I only want to make one trip to have the tires changed. Can I safely put jack stands under the frame rails using the front jack as a tripod? Or should I use 4 and space them out?
25ft fb. By the way.
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