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Old 10-28-2012, 08:33 PM   #15
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I don't have a photo handy, but I'll try to explain what I did and then take a pic if I still have to...
As I remember without going out to look in the dark, the Banana wraps attach underneath to the bottoms of the outriggers, with a pop-rivet. To give them more rigidity inbetween the outriggers, I used some of the scrap/leftover aluminum channel that I ended up with after gutting the interior. I cut this scrap to fit between the outriggers and attached it to the outriggers at the exact place that the bottom end of the banana wrap would hit it. I then put a couple pop-rivets through this sandwich. Seems to work just fine, and looks good too.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:27 AM   #16
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tphan, thank you, that clarifies it.
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:50 PM   #17
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Well, I did it. This weekend my wife was out of town and I needed something to do. It's a balmy 42 degrees and no rain, so I decided what the heck, drop the belly pan. Probably 3/4 of the rivets had failed due to galvanic corrosion. So I crawled under the Argosy and started drilling on rivets. The pan came out fairly easily. In my case, it is a one piece affair as you can see in the second photo.
I'm very glad I did this, as the insulation had absorbed a lot of water. The first photo shows the lovely pink muck I found. The good news is there is almost no rot in the plywood floor, and while the bottom of the frame has rust almost everywhere, it all appears structurally sound. Had I not dropped the pan I bet I would have started to have serious issues in a year or so.
Luckily, the PO had stored the Argosy under cover for years. I'm not so lucky as to have covered storage, but I did a lot of protective caulking just after I got the trailer, so I think I've got most of the leaks. Living in the PNW though, I know this will be an ongoing battle.
I'm trying to dry everything out now and getting ready to clean the frame and paint it. I'll then paint the plywood and determine whether or not to bother insulating it.
At this point, I'm pretty sure I'm not going to replace the belly pan. Based on what I see has happened over the years, I agree with perryg that these trailers would probably benefit from not having a belly pan.
I'll post more with photos as I progress, slowly.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:45 AM   #18
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Do you plan to insulate the floor somehow with rigid foam? And what about heat for the tanks?
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:21 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream View Post
Do you plan to insulate the floor somehow with rigid foam? And what about heat for the tanks?
I don't know yet about insulation - I want to check out Reflectix that others have used. I'll paint the underside of the plywood and clean up and paint the frame members. I've winterized the trailer and keep heat in the trailer so I'm not worried about freezing. All my tanks are contained above the floor.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:52 PM   #20
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Well it's about time I update this thread.
I've sanded the frame and applied a rust converter, then painted the frame members. I've decided after a lot of angst to replace the belly pan. My initial thought was to use FRP panels - the thicker ones that are used on commercial box trailers. Fortunately before I spent the $, I called a manufacturer and talked with a very helpful tech, who told me that he thought FRP was too soft and would deteriorate rapidly due to rocks being thrown up against the belly of the trailer.
I was reluctant to replace the badly deteriorated aluminum pan with another aluminum pan, but after researching this forum and following the advice and wisdom of some 4 rivet members, chose to order some .032" 6061-T6 Aluminum. I'll add Reflectix before I install the new pan material.
More photos to follow.
One last thing, and I can't emphasize this enough, this is a great forum and plumbing the depths of knowledge freely given here is both enlightening and enjoyable. When we first purchased our Argosy, I quickly found it would be a LOT more work than I anticipated, and just as quickly became a little discouraged. After seeing what so many of the other members of this forum have taken on, and the encouragement and advice that so many of you offer, I am in a perverse way enjoying the challenge. I'll be donating to the forum fund next week, and would urge everyone else who has benefited as much as I have to do the same.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:45 PM   #21
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Quote:
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I've sanded the frame and applied a rust converter, then painted the frame members. I've decided after a lot of angst to replace the belly pan. h
Just curious what influenced your decision?
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream View Post
Just curious what influenced your decision?
I was driving from Seattle to Portland in a deluge (not unusual around here in the winter) and passed several trailers. Each time I looked at the underside of the trailer as I passed I saw gallons of road water being thrown up against the belly and realized that unless I re-installed a belly pan, my 40+ year old trailer would be absolutely soaked, and all my work would get soaked too. While the frame would probably be fine, the plywood would get wet and have little chance to dry out. Inevitably, rot or mildew would follow. We would like to be able to let our kids and grandkids enjoy this trailer, and I determined that having it deteriorate because I chose not to spend a little extra time and money protecting it would be a poor decision on my part.

I think that if I lived in the southwest or dryer climes, my decision would be just to treat the plywood and frame with a good paint job. But this is the land of wet.
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:29 PM   #23
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Thanks for posting this information. It gives me some really good insights into your thought process and how it changed. This probably will save me from going though a similar conversation with myself.
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:05 PM   #24
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WOW Well got serious problems around the holding tanks, Found a weld in the black water tank that was never completed so 38 years of drips. So perhaps removing the
last 5 feet or so of belly pan and see if things can be reinforced. My manual says the belly pan should not support the holding tanks, they are supposed to have their own
frame. However I can see where something is pressing down HARD on the belly pan.
Now need a wall to back over and make it possible to stand under it.
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:18 AM   #25
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belly pan

We salvaged a 72 argosy from ruin for a retreat in the mountains of NC. We tow it once or twice a year as it sits on our property. My thought is to remove the belly pan to replace the subfloor and inspect and do any frame repairs needed. what about a waterproof barrier under the subfloor and no belly pan? We are off the grid so we have no holding tanks or running water. We mainly use it as a bunk house camping. We don't winter camp much so insulation is not a factor.
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Old 08-18-2015, 10:37 AM   #26
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Only if there is no snakes, mice/rats/squirrels, bugs or condensing moisture in North Carolina. If you have a paved ramp to park it on all then the above problems are reduced but not eliminated.

The BaseCamp Airstream Trailer has areas using a heavy weight mesh fabric, similar to agricultural shade fabric suitable for use in the tropics but with a rubberized coating that takes the place of their traditional 0.025" skins.

When I say condensing moisture - there is an increase in water vapor pressure above any soil/earth that is we see often at dawn and dusk as ground fog, even if it can't be seen it is still there and would love to find the cool metal of your frame/barrier/skins to condense out on twice of more times a day....

Anywho - if you've perfectly POR-15'd and caulked everything, put in a vermin barrier screen, and avoid long term parking over dirt.. there is still towing it in the rain or for us folks up north soaking the area with ice-melt salts if traveling once that season starts...
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Old 08-18-2015, 12:21 PM   #27
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Paint the floor and caulk all seams between the floor and frame members. This keeps water from getting between the floor and frame.

Perry
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Old 08-18-2015, 12:53 PM   #28
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I thought about putting aluminum sheet between the floor and frame for the entire trailer length like the piece that goes under the door/step area but decided that it may be worse because it'll hold any moisture that gets in there up against the wood.
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