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Old 05-12-2009, 07:18 AM   #15
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1973 31' Sovereign
Danielsville , Georgia
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I did a '72 Overlander 5 years ago and took a few pictures.

I had to remove the bedroom walls (both sides) and replaced the entire sheet of plywood after "freshening" up the frame a bit. The black water tank supports and box needed replacement/refurbishment.

Here are some pics I took.

Good luck!
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:07 PM   #16
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Columbia , South Carolina
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Rivet, rivet... I liked the part where you drill out a bunch of rivets to remove the trim strips so that you can access a couple hundred more rivets to dismantle the bath fixture pieces parts! I'm glad that the bath is in the back/last to take out, because I might have quit if it was the first thing that I tackled. But it's all out now. The floor rot that I found under the kitchen DWV pipe had nothing on the floor rot under the rear/tub DWV pipe. I had assumed that it would need to be replaces anyway, with all the rot, it'll be easier to remove. Keep plugging, we'll get there.
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Old 05-13-2009, 06:54 AM   #17
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1969 31' Sovereign
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Alex , Oklahoma
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Frame sag

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Originally Posted by Steve Tryon View Post
Hey my 69 sovereign's bathroom is all over the driveway right now. Rotten plywood Did you have any frame sag or repair to do? I have some rusted out frame.
Steve yes we had the frame sag, but were luck only a small rust out on frame. Feel free to private email us.
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Old 05-20-2009, 08:03 AM   #18
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1969 27' Overlander
Lehi , Utah
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I guess there comes a day in a new Airstream owners life when they have to quit doing research, stop gathering tools and chargeing batteries, grab a drill and start tearing things out. Yesterday was that day.

When I dropped my belly pan I found that my waste tank box had pretty much dissolved, I hope I can figure out exactly where that needs to be when I rebuild. a lot of the floor had rotted and the frame is pretty rusty. It took a bit of cheating to complete the bathroom fixture puzzle but its pretty much out.

Questions: rivets, I am going to need a million of them to put this all back together where is a good source? Do I need Clecos?I have never used them
I guess if the frame is pretty rusty just brush it off and add some reinforcement?
Mr Tubby? seems like a good product to paint the sink, tub, and toilet wrap?

Thank you so much for all of the great advise it has helped a bunch. Today I hope to finish the demolition and start the rebuild.

Thanks again
Clay
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Old 05-20-2009, 12:06 PM   #19
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Portage , Michigan
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I just ordered 200 1/8" aluminum blind rivets (these are used on the interior) from Fastenal for $6.00. Home Depot is at $4.97 for 100 of the same rivet.

Derek
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Old 05-20-2009, 01:09 PM   #20
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1975 31' Sovereign
Houston , Texas
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Question Both Walls ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaChop View Post
I did a '72 Overlander 5 years ago and took a few pictures.

I had to remove the bedroom walls (both sides)
Ron was the wall removal BOTH SIDES necessary to remove fixtures out of the trailer? That is do you know if the tub could be removed from a 70' era rear bath with just the curbside (or just the streetside) bulkheads removed?
As I read your pictorial I am not sure you took your tub out of the trailer.
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Old 05-20-2009, 02:55 PM   #21
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As far as what needs to be removed to access all the fixtures, you never know what may have been altered over the years. I couldn't figure out the spaghetti mess of drain piping until I dropped my waste tank. Then I found that the kitchen sink, the bath sink and the shower had been plumbed to drain downstream of the black water tank and release valve. In other words, the gray water went straight out - no tanks, no valves. I don't think they let you dump gray water straight to the ground these days, so I'll have to add a tank, or plumb it back into the single tank.
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Old 05-20-2009, 05:07 PM   #22
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1972 25' Tradewind
old mystic , Connecticut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayC View Post
I guess there comes a day in a new Airstream owners life when they have to quit doing research, stop gathering tools and chargeing batteries, grab a drill and start tearing things out. Yesterday was that day.

When I dropped my belly pan I found that my waste tank box had pretty much dissolved, I hope I can figure out exactly where that needs to be when I rebuild. a lot of the floor had rotted and the frame is pretty rusty. It took a bit of cheating to complete the bathroom fixture puzzle but its pretty much out.

Questions: rivets, I am going to need a million of them to put this all back together where is a good source? Do I need Clecos?I have never used them
I guess if the frame is pretty rusty just brush it off and add some reinforcement?
Mr Tubby? seems like a good product to paint the sink, tub, and toilet wrap?

Thank you so much for all of the great advise it has helped a bunch. Today I hope to finish the demolition and start the rebuild.

Thanks again
Clay
Clay,
Sounds like you have jumped in with both feet, good for you, We have a Napa not far from us, we bought the rivets by the box of 500,make sure you get the aluninum ones, and believe me you will you that many and many more, 1/8 by 1/4 was what we used the most of on the inside. We also purchased , the one tool that was money well spent, for 105 buck we bought an air powered rivet gun. By far the best investment you'll ever make.

Post some picture of what you have found, we love pictures here, and believe me what you found under your belly pan, is the same thing most of us has found, some worse than others.

Annette
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Old 05-20-2009, 06:43 PM   #23
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1969 27' Overlander
Lehi , Utah
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Well so far I have every thing out of the bathroom from the bedroom walls back. I had to loosen the door frame on the road side bed room closet ( I have a "D" double model) in order to take the closet that covers the hot water heater. Cut out most all of the copper and drain pipes, and now comes the floor, or what is left of the floor. I have taken lots of photos and have marked every thing with blue tape. tomorrow I will start cleaning the frame underneath to see what needs to be welded before I start to reassemble.

Thanks for the riveting tips, I found that I have a Fastenall Close and I plan to look into the rivet gun.

Clay
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:13 PM   #24
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1964 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
enosburg , Vermont
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When you buy the aluminum pop rivets most have a light steel mandrel [the pin that pulls the rivet]. You may want to consider the aluminum mandrel, 0 chance of dissimilar metal corrosion. They do cost a little more. Beware of really cheap rivets and rivet guns. Often the bargin stuff breakes of the mandrel way above the rivet. Makes an otherwise enjoyable job a real P.I.T.A.!! You can order a catalog online from jay-cee sales & rivet,,, Aircraft spruce.com and others. They have tons of pics & info on rivets, aluminum and tools. For bucked rivets and aluminum work check out the thread by Aerowood,1971 Globetrotter.
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:44 PM   #25
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Eureka , California
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I bought (most) of my rivets, propane tanks, stove vent cover, lights, and more here: Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!. I would definitely steer clear of rivets with the steel mandrel.

And I bought an air rivet gun from harbor freight- cheap but still works!

Good luck and have fun!
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:18 AM   #26
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My first post! Thanks for all the helpful information. My hubby and I are tackling our rear bathroom as soon as we install our fantastic fan.

My question is, after you have completed the floor repair, what kind of tile did you put back in? It would have to have the same thickness as the asbestos tile... because when you re-install the bathroom pieces, all your rivet holes won't line up....

Thanks,

Kelly
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:39 AM   #27
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1977 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
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my first post! surly not my last, I have a million questions. We are the proud new owners of a 1969 Overlander. I think she has a bit of rear end sag, and certainly the bathroom needs a makeover. I think I need to remove the fixtures and I would like to know where to start.

Thanks for your help
Hey also look on youtube for airstream restoration and look for DYI I believe they did a overlander to. they have all the restoration.
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:25 AM   #28
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Danielsville , Georgia
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Quote:
Ron was the wall removal BOTH SIDES necessary to remove fixtures out of the trailer? That is do you know if the tub could be removed from a 70' era rear bath with just the curbside (or just the streetside) bulkheads removed?
As I read your pictorial I am not sure you took your tub out of the trailer.
I took it all out. I had to remove the curb side wall (actually double wall) to remove the screws which held the tub in place. I took the streetside out because the floor extended to just underneath the wall and I replaced the entire rear section.
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