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Old 04-17-2016, 08:41 AM   #1
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Los Andgeles , California
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 2
Bambi treatment

Hi Everyone,

Just bought a 2006 AS Bambi Quicksilver edition and I'm a first time AS owner! The trailer is living with me and my wife in SoCal for the first time in its life and I don't know what I'm doing so could use some tips.

Trailer is in great shape but has some minor white raised spiderweb filiform corrossion around the taillights and a few other small places. I rubbed some Gibbs anti corrosion lubricant on some of the filiform on one of the tail lights areas and it became dark loose and flakey. I flaked it off with a razor blade and now have a section of raw old looking dark grey exposed metal. Its about the size of a silver dollar and right next to the taillight. It's worse looking than the filiform and I'm concerned about rust in California. I am considering using some silver touch up paint and clear coat to treat. My two questions to the AS community are:

1- How do I treat this and what products do I use?

2- Should I attempt to treat the other remaining White filiform blotches and how to? They are pretty minor and don't really bother me. But I just don't want them getting worse.



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Old 05-04-2016, 09:56 AM   #2
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2008 22' Safari
Spicewood (W of Austin) , Texas
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 437
The corrosion-removal product you used was likely an acid which etched/anodized the base metal. This sort of product is intended for metal to be painted or otherwise treated.
Filiform corrosion is usually the result of bare aluminum's natural tendency to create an aluminum-oxide covering to protect itself from further reduction. The Airstreams of this recent mfr were coated with a clearcoat product by Alcoa in an effort to reduce the need for polishing. Unfortunately, wherever an edge or scratch or cut occurs.... exposes the bare aluminum again....and creates a place where corrosion can again occur. (Filiform can also develop beneath the clearcoat where pin-hole damage exists in the clearcoat, once the oxygen gets to the exposed aluminum.)
One way to take care of this is to remove the clearcoat from over the oxidized area, polish the filiform away, clean the surface with alcohol, then re-apply clearcoat (which can be purchased in small quantities such as fingernail-polish, self-contained-brush-lids types, and also in aerosol cans at automotive paint suppliers, auto parts houses, and WallyMarts.
If you use a buffer to attempt to remove the filiform prior to removing any covering of clearcoat you will only succeed in "burnishing" or "burning" any existing clearcoat over/adjacent to the fliform. That is why you want to remove any clearcoat that my still exist directly over the filiform, before polishing-away the filiform and then recoating it.
Hope this helps.

2012 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Tradesman 4.7L 4X4
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:30 PM   #3
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Los Andgeles , California
Join Date: Apr 2016
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Thanks Boxite, appreciate the advice. I've removed the filiform and clear coat and polished the spot up with some quality metal polish and a rag. I didn't have much success polishing though. The spot looks like a faded old dark grey and not at all mirrored like the rest of the trailer. Any advice for more polishing before I put the clear coat on?

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