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Old 04-24-2013, 04:49 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
Larry, unfortunately, there is no next size larger rivets - he has to stick with Olympic rivets as they are waterproof and look just like the bucked ones. Thus the patch is the only good long term solution.
Unless I missed some detail about this rail installation, I believe it was originally installed using 1/8" solid brazier rivets. If those holes are now oversized, drilling them out to 5/32" and using Olympics should work without a patch. Z
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:49 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
Larry, unfortunately, there is no next size larger rivets - he has to stick with Olympic rivets as they are waterproof and look just like the bucked ones. Thus the patch is the only good long term solution.
I realize that the Olympic "shave rivet" has been the standard to replace the bucked rivet for a long time. However, you might want to check out this link.

Olympic does make shave rivets in several different diameters. Usually, the rivets on the awning rail are not visible from the ground, so if the head diameter were a few thousandths of an inch larger, it wouldn't make any difference, and it should be stronger.

To me at least, it would warrant looking into...for whatever it's worth.

Byler Rivet - Shaveable Head Bulb-tite Rivets (RV6607)


http://www.bylerrivet.com/products/p...tegory117a.pdf

Larry
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Old 04-24-2013, 08:58 AM   #17
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By main awning was attached with buck rivets at the factory. However, the other three awnings were installed with simple pop rivets. If it is a main awning, by all means use Olympic rivets. My street side awning rail was ripped off the trailer in a tornado. This one was pop riveted on. I think I used 3/16 pop rivets on it with Trempro-635 underneath it. The adhesive will probably do more to keep it on than the pop rivets. I do remember drilling the old rivets out was a pain because the skin would deflect. I think I also had to use a ballpeen hammer to get the skin flat again where the rivets were ripped out. I would not use pop rivets on the main awning. It will fail in short order. My small awning seems to be doing ok with pop rivets.

Originally the rails were sealed with that CRAPPY GUM TAPE. This stuff will seal for a month or two then skrink. It also provides no adhesive value to help hold it on there. The Trempro will provide alot of adhesion over the area we are talking about. I still would not trust it to hold a main awning rail on.

If the rivets are loose and the rail will move then you need to fix it right. Otherwise caulk will fix it.

Perry
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:06 AM   #18
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Thanks very much for the suggestions. I will not address this issue until Nov or Jan. I do plan on some type of patch and re-installation. The rivets I drilled out were pop rivets. 30 something of them. One small crack in the Al under the support. The awning is a curbside awning. I do plan to space a drain somehow because the water backs up over the glaze of the vista window. I am thinking about a patch of a 1/8 or1/4 inch by 1 1/4 Al strip epoxied (jb weld maybe) and riveted. Then re-attach the awning rail with Olympics in new holes through the patch and trailer skin. The awning is on the sunny side and we use it. Since I have to do the patch anyway I will probably put it back on.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:10 AM   #19
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The Olympics will work even if the holes are distorted. I would use something flexible instead of JB-weld if you go the patch option. The JB-weld will crack when the trailer flexes. My main awning sags in the middle and water pools there. If you can make the center slightly higher you will be better off.

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