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Old 09-20-2018, 01:06 AM   #1
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1977 27' Overlander
Portland , Oregon
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Any pointers on cutting the correct shapes for interior end caps?

I have a 76 Overlander and I donít really dig the plastic endcaps in the front or rear. Some people rock the old school clocks and shelves that donít stay open but itís just not my thing.

Removing them has left a big area in need of skins, as expected. Fortunately someone on Craigslist was selling a ton of skins from his 1968 AS for cheap, so I bought them all off of him.

Iíd like to figure out a way to cut the rather complex shapes needed to cover the endcaps. Anyone have any pointers or resources?
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:41 AM   #2
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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Suggest you start with patterns. I used the floor protect from Lowes.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ram-Board-1...-50-ft/4514588

For the rear cap I spaced the pieces 11.5" inches apart at the rib. If you look at post 25 of my rebuild I detail what I did. Keep in mind that length of each piece is going to vary based on where it lands on the window and the type of windows you have. With my small windows I needed the 60" length. Air Parts inc in Kansas City carries 60" wide rolls, in case you need some.

http://www.airpartsinc.com/77_AIRSTR..._Camper_RV.htm
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:00 AM   #3
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I did mine in wood. I have left over interior skins just in case I change my mind and want to use aluminum.

There are a few threads that show how to create new ones.

Tips and pointers: making new interior endcaps is not that hard. I did 2 endcaps- front and rear. Both are 9 panel or segment endcaps. I felt they came out aesthetically balanced. All segments are 11.5 x 48 except the center panel. Start at the bottom and work your way up. Panels overlap and will conform to the curve. I buck riveted mine but pop rivets will go faster if you don't mind the hole. You can use Olympic rivets too.

I documented all this on a thread called "fabricating wooden interior endcaps". I may have the name wrong. Anyway I explain in detail how to make new interior endcaps.
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:13 AM   #4
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There are several threads that cover this. I suggest you look at Zepp's work in post #6 of the link below.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...ent-57687.html
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Old 09-20-2018, 04:47 PM   #5
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I followed the work of the earlier posted examples and went with 11 pieces cut 11" x 48", I left the track over the top that held the original end cap and with the first piece in the track and level across the top of the window letting the end be wherever it ended up, then the next one in the track overlapping the first by an inch etc.
The 1-1/2" spacer thing is important and I fought that part by trying to use neoprene pipe insulation to space it out as I went.
I used buck rivets and that made the job much harder than just pop riveting in place since I had to take each side down to rivet as I went, do predrill one side of the panels and use that as your guide to drill the matted panel.
Layout one for your hole spacing and with the panels on top of each other you can drill all at once.
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Old 09-20-2018, 04:52 PM   #6
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another...
Thinking back I did not start with the first panel level with the window, it needed to be cut along the bottom to work.
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Old 09-20-2018, 06:40 PM   #7
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Here the front one I did in wood
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:21 AM   #8
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What do you use to get a good straight cut on the aluminum?
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:16 AM   #9
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Thank you guys for all the replies, and like dwhitake asked, also curious what you guys use for straight cuts. I figure with enough cutting, I might invest in an electric or air-powered set of metal sheers. Thoughts?
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:26 AM   #10
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1977 27' Overlander
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Something like this?

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-gau...ars-62213.html
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:16 PM   #11
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I took my material to a fabrication shop with a large shear to get a straight cut. You only really need one side straight, the lower edge. The upper edge is covered. The rib end may have to be straight if you don't put it under the panels in front of the last rib. Most of my front edges are buried in the wall. My bathroom front walls are thicker to hide the plumbing for the shower and for a pocket door. The window edge has to be trimmed to fit.

Note: I had my pieces cut so I had a right angle, thinking the lower edge and rib edge should be 90 degrees. Perhaps because of my off center window, I ended rotating the lower edge so it 'hit' the window at the same point on both sides. I was creating an optical illusion so there was symmetry around the window.

Regardless, you will find an electric shear a handy tool to have around.
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