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Old 05-13-2017, 08:18 AM   #99
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1973 27' Overlander
Fonthill , Ontario
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2Rhinos, I used 2" styrofoam panels carved to size and fixed in with 2 1/2" screws and fender washers.
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:22 AM   #100
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Minno, on mine I know that the centre and upper panels went over the cap into a plastic moulding. It's the middle panel beside the window that I can't see in my pics. ( lesson to all, take way more pics than you think you'll need! ) If anybody has a pic of that it would be much appreciated.
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:13 AM   #101
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Well, ok, I got it exactly backward! Just looked at the trailer: end cap went up first, then side walls so they overlap it. We didn't have the plastic moulding in ours - older trailer by a year. Or, maybe yours was from CA, ours is from Ohio.

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Old 05-13-2017, 09:41 AM   #102
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Let's see if this works. Can you make out how ours are put in there?

Jim
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:49 AM   #103
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Try again, just got a new computer. The photo editing software is terrible.
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:51 AM   #104
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And.....
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:04 AM   #105
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Humm, maybe better?
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Old 05-13-2017, 12:39 PM   #106
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Great, that helps a lot. pretty sure that's the way mine goes together. I'm just gonna pull out the old panels and count rivet holes and see which one has more.
Fewer holes = top layer.
Once again, thanks for the pics.
Jack
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Old 02-08-2018, 11:54 AM   #107
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Hello again. Itís been almost a year since Iíve posted last. Funny how life sometimes gets in the way of what we want to do. Just a quick update. Iíve got the inside skins up having replaced some of them with coated plain aluminium. With some of my aluminium scraps and about 150 buck rivets each, Iíve fashioned new inner wheel wells to replace the badly cracked plastic ones. Click image for larger version

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Too bad nobody will ever see them.
Iíve also redone the porch light. Iíve remover the standard bayonet mount light socket.Click image for larger version

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Then created a mount for 2 flat LED arrays.Click image for larger version

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Bottom view. Click image for larger version

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Now all I need is a few days warm enough for the snow to melt so I can attach it.

Iíve also found a new reason to finish this spring. My wife has told me that if itís not done this year sheís going to put it up for sale!!!!!
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Old 02-08-2018, 11:54 AM   #108
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Sorry for the doubled pics.
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Old 02-16-2018, 03:24 PM   #109
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Started mocking up the dinette after cutting the curved seat tops out of 3/4Ē birch ply. Instead of getting all fancy, I just went ahead and bought the seat legs from my local Airstream dealer. Since the older trailers are narrower, needed to mock-up to get the dimensions to what feels good.
Boulder decided he should be the first to test out the sleeping arrangements.
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He seems to like the 4Ē cushions.
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Old 02-17-2018, 01:30 PM   #110
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Iím using the table hinge kit from Vintage Trailer Supply and not using any ledges under the seats. ( I find they dig into the back of your legs.) I did not want to rely just on the sheet aluminium and screws to support the weight of the table in the bed mode. Especially since Iím not a small guy and might wind up sleeping there sometime. To support the hardware I installed 1X1Ē X 1/8Ē aluminium angle and a 2ĒX1/8Ē flat bar of aluminium riveted in place.Click image for larger version

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After that more mock-up to make sure it all fits together before I cover it with the inner aluminium skin.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-05-2018, 10:35 AM   #111
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Some days it just not worth it to go out and work on the trailer.
Today I was sanding the ridges between the floor sections and filling the gaps in preparation for laying the flooring. I didnít want to be able to see the impressions through the linoleum. I noticed a big ridge by the door. Started poking it with a putty knife and it came up easily. After only 2 1/2 years, I had the dreaded rot! Hereís what it looked like by the time I got it cleared back to solid wood.
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It looks like the water got past the penetrating epoxy sealed edge and into the seam between the sheets and started rotting the plywood from the middle layers out.

Now comes the problem of figuring out how to fix it. Besides the obvious use of ďGit-RotĒ, Iím thinking of cutting back to the frame and scarfing the remaining joint. Comments and suggestions are always welcome.
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Old 03-05-2018, 01:31 PM   #112
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I'd square off at least the top portion 1" beyond the perimeter shown and when I was convinced I was back to solid wood patch back with an epoxy putty. Good news is with epoxy now days it's no longer a complete remove and replace.
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