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Old 09-16-2016, 04:25 PM   #85
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1973 27' Overlander
Fonthill , Ontario
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Battery box is now mounted. After getting it all together and dry fit, I had to redesign the frame and mounts. Turns out I didn't leave enough room to weld direct to the frame so I added tabs, drilled and tapped the frame and bolted it to the frame. In retrospect probably better that I can remove it if I have too.Click image for larger version

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The box only hangs 5 1/2 inches below the frame and is flush with the top.
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Now that the trailer battery is installed, I added the power jack.
No more cranking!!!!
(Unless there's a problem)
Put the tanks on the tongue to check for fit and there's lots of room all the way around.Click image for larger version

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Another few jobs off the list which is happily getting shorter all the time..,
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Old 09-30-2016, 10:34 PM   #86
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1973 27' Overlander
Fonthill , Ontario
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The plastic has all been repaired, now off to the paint shop. After being given the final word by my other half that the TT must be ready for use for next spring, the decision to save time and spend money was made.
Here are some close ups of the repairs.
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The crack was first joined together using MEK. Then a paste of ABS and MEK was made using some old cutout from the original end caps and some ABS plastic welding rods from Harbor Freight. After which the job of sanding down to an acceptable finish.
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Just to show I can goof up royally, I made the original speaker cutout too big. Luckily, I was able to use the cutout to make a ring and bond it into place using the paste.
FYI, MEK is nasty stuff. I worked outside all the time and if there was no wind, I used a fan to blow away the fumes.
As soon as I get the parts back from the printshop, I'll post the after pictures. In case you're wondering, I asked the shop what they use and they said adhesion promoter and auto paint.
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Old 10-01-2016, 09:38 AM   #87
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2017 25' Flying Cloud
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Thanks for the update Jack! Can't wait to see more!
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Old 10-10-2016, 02:00 PM   #88
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Finally the inside skins are going back up! The insulation is on. This winter I'll find out if my idea for a thermal break works. Thought long and hard about what I was going to use. Many ideas, foam tape, felt ribbon, thin wood etc popped up and were discounted for one reason or another. I finally decided on melamine tape the pre-glued kind used on shelf edging. Click image for larger version

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It went on easily using an electric heat gun and a welders glove.Click image for larger version

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Slowly but steadily it comes together...
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:16 PM   #89
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1973 27' Overlander
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Just out of curiosity has anyone used Stainless Steel for inside skins? If so, how has it worked out? were there any problems with galvanic corrosion?
Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2016, 09:23 AM   #90
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1975 Argosy 28
Springville , Alabama
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Corrosion should not be an issue. SS is the number 1 fastener outside of aluminum rivets. Cost is the factor here. And so is the weight. But I like the idea.
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:31 PM   #91
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1977 31' Sovereign
Tallmadge , Ohio
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Where did you buy the sealant removal discs and cutters? I find them in large quantities (40 discs) for hundreds of dollars. do you know anywhere to get smaller quantities for less money?
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:55 PM   #92
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1973 27' Overlander
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I got them from Grainger. They may have to order them in.
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:50 AM   #93
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1974 31' Excella 500
Chicago , Illinois
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Originally Posted by Unka Jack View Post
Finally remove the backing and apply to the cleaned tank side with a 1/4" top and bottom clearance. Be careful, you only get one shot. The sensors are to fragile too remove and reapply. With the sensors attached, just have to connect the wires. The beauty of this system, is that all the sensors are connected in parallel, only 2 wires.
Did you have any issues with the tank monitor sending unit next to that metal cross member? I've read that you'll get interference if not insulated from the frame.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:07 AM   #94
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1974 31' Excella 500
Chicago , Illinois
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What a great thread! I'm going through a lot of what you did. Spending lots of time with a plasma cutter and a welder getting the last 8ish feet of thr rear back in order.

A wealth of knowledge here. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 11-07-2016, 10:21 PM   #95
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1973 27' Overlander
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Originally Posted by raphspeaks View Post
Did you have any issues with the tank monitor sending unit next to that metal cross member? I've read that you'll get interference if not insulated from the frame.

To be honest, I'm not at that point yet. I took advantage of having everything open during the repairs to install the system. I did follow the manufacturers advice of keeping the sensor 2" away from any nearby metal. The pictures may not show it very well as the driveway asphalt is almost the same colour as the rusted frame. The manual goes on to say that if it is too close, the usual effect is not showing empty when it is or fluctuating if being emptied or filled rapidly.
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