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Old 02-29-2016, 01:46 AM   #71
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1999 25' Safari
valdez , Alaska
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Wow this is an amazing restoration! I just ordered some of those 3m caulk grinders you showed earlier in the post. I am about to start my overhaul of a 25' 99 Safari. Thanks so much for the photos , can't wait to see your next steps.


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Old 03-01-2016, 12:09 AM   #72
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2011 23' FB International
1975 Argosy 30
Santa Barbara , California
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You may want to look at http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...er-101613.html for the Dickinson install (scroll down the page).
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:40 PM   #73
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Fonthill , Ontario
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Insulation almost done!
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The long tedious job of insulating is almost done. All that remains is the second layer of the forward dome.
I've left a couple of small access areas left open for now so that I can adjust, replace repair wiring and hardware attachment points in the future without having to remove all of the inner skins. Also, I've reinforced the attachment points for the awning with aluminium backing plates so I can use proper bolts to attach them, not the 2" X 1/4" lag bolts the PO had used on a 1.5" thick wall!
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Old 03-31-2016, 12:27 AM   #74
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Blenheim , Ontario
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For post #66. If you haven't found anything, Canadian Tire has some window trim in the auto dept. Black and chrome. Has adhesive tape inside the u. Looks good!
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Old 03-31-2016, 11:33 PM   #75
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Thanks for the info. I had forgotten to post that I had found a local (Canadian) manufacturer called Trim Guard" in London Ont.Click image for larger version

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I was able to get it through Martin at CanAmRV. Trim Guard also makes a moulding that is used for airstream belt line moulding.Click image for larger version

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As they are a manufacturer, you have to purchase through a dealer or auto parts store.
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Old 07-12-2016, 03:06 AM   #76
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Well it's been quite a while since I've posted. Unfortunately I've had some health issues that are now resolved (except for the wear and tear of living a fun life). Mostly what I've been doing on the Airstream has been all those fiddly little jobs that need to be done. Especially removing all the old caulking and sealants that have been applied by the previous owners! My trusty tools have been my 3M bristle wheel, plastic chisels, and of course McKanica silicone caulk remover.
The remover. Works best after scraping off what you can, you apply the gel over the area and cover it with plastic wrap. I normally apply it in the evening, and leave it overnight. When I peel off the wrap, a lot of the caulking comes with it. Patience is the key to this product.
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Old 07-12-2016, 03:19 AM   #77
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On the inside of the trailer most of the 2 layers of Prodex are in. Also approx 700 feet of marine grade wiring. Having had to chase some bad grounds over the years I decided to "bite the bullet" and not only ran the "hot"/ positive wires, but also the accompanying ground/ negative wires. It was an added expense, but this will be my personal TT for as long as I can still manage it. A few other tweaks I've come up with are extra wire that will be accessible from behind the front and rear domes so I can always change the clearance lights. I used the Grote clear lens LED clearance lights.Click image for larger version

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Old 07-12-2016, 03:32 AM   #78
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To connect the driving lights, I've added a junction box at the front of the trailer with a 7 wire cable from front to back.Click image for larger version

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I haven't got it all connected yet. All my connections are with double crimp connections and screw terminals. Click image for larger version

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When running that much wire, I found it helpful to put all the spools on a rod at the end of the trailer. Made keeping them organized that much easier.
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Old 07-12-2016, 03:39 AM   #79
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The negative side of the wiring is attached to the trailer chassis and shell. The AC wires are run, but it will be a while before I get to installing the distribution/circuit breaker panels. I will be using marine panels again a) because I like them, b) 'cause I just happen to have them lying about from a previous boat project.
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:45 PM   #80
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As part of my upgrades, I've decided to install a Tuson electronic sway control. Earlier I had split the brake wiring into left and right sides. Today after lowering part of the belly pan, I got a piece of 1/8" aluminium plate and bolted it to the cross member of the frame. The instructions call for the controller to be mounted 5-10' back from the ball. Mine was 7' back.Click image for larger version

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Once the wires are connected and tested, I'll create an access panel so I won't have to remove the entire belly pan.
If you haven't seen the controller in action, here's the link to CanAm RV video where they were testing it on the track. https://youtu.be/EF_o__RV5kE
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:13 AM   #81
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Click image for larger version

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The Tuson controller is mounted and wired. Note the "drip loops" on the wires, this helps prevent any water following the wires background into the controller. As per the manual, the unit is waterproof. The loops are just added insurance.

This has been a week for wiring. I converted the scare light to LED. First I removed the original bayonet bulb mount, then ran new wires from the fixture back to the switch. I purchased some LED patch lights in blue from Amazon (
5-Pack Blue 5050 24SMD Led Panel Dome Light Lamp Auto Car Reading Interior Lamp DC 12V With T10 / BA9S / Festoon Adapters).
I then cut a disk to fit the blue lens from some scrap aluminium. The patches come with mounting foam on them, so I just drilled some holes for the wires and pressed them on.Click image for larger version

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I also put a slight bend on the bottom of the plate so it would aim some light towards the ground.Click image for larger version

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I then just soldered the wires I parallel to a heavier wire that could be crimped to the trailer wiring.Click image for larger version

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The plate was. Then placed into the lensClick image for larger version

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Then finally crimes to the new trailer wiring and attached.Click image for larger version

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I was quite pleased with the brightness.
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:35 PM   #82
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Oops, uploaded the same pic twice. Here is the pic showing the bend a little better.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-20-2016, 01:14 PM   #83
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Hello again,
One of the decisions I made earlier is to split my DC system into two. The first will be the "house system". The second is the actual "trailer" portion. This includes the brakes, breakaway switch, electronic sway control, running lights, turn, brake, backup lights and a dedicated battery to run them. Here is a picture of the fully wired junction box at the front of the trailer.
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All the connections are crimped heat shrunk and screwed into terminal blocks. Some might say overkill, but I can rest easy knowing it will be easier to troubleshoot if I have to. Also all the wires are colour coded with a legend on the inside of the cover for when I will inevitably forget what I've done.
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:21 PM   #84
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For the battery, I've decide to move the battery and box to the tongue of the trailer so that it will be close to the electric jack that's being installed. Found a box on Amazon that I liked, but didn't like the price. Went to my local welder and worked out a deal. I used up some of his scrap pile, did the cutting and bending, and he would do the seams. Click image for larger version

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For $30 CAD, I have a nice shiny aluminium diamond plate battery box. All I have to do is weld the brackets to the tongue.
When all is said and done I will be selling off the parts that were removed from the trailer that I no longer need.
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